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View attachment 51702 this is the kind I bought.
I think it's unlikely that Hyper Tough code reader can read Nissan TCM CVT error codes...

I'd check for error codes again using your phone company's OBD2 reader that you originally got the P1778 code from to see what it says...
 

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I just reread your thread and notice you mentioned P1778 went away after replacing the stepper motor, it just doesn't change gear ratios after changing it, correct?
 

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You keep mentioning that it will not get out of first gear. CVTs has not gears like a traditional automatic transmission. It just speeds up as you step on the gas without gear hunting/changing. Now if you mean 1st gear like you are on limp mode where you floor it and nothing happens just go really slow then surely the CVT is acting up.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
When I accelerate the rpms go way up atleast to 4000 rpms if you don't let off the pedal and it only allows you to go maybe 15 mph. So there is no way that I can get up to 40 mph like u asked me to do. But on the code reader it showed the p01778 when I first plugged it in. But after clearing the codes it does not show the code anymore.
 

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That's good to know that your new Hyper Tough HT309 obd2 reader works for Nissan specific TCM errors.

Yeah, it your CVT is not changing gear ratios, so I'd focus on resolving that before looking at the other problem...
 

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It really requires some with the expertise with Nissan CVTs, a Nissan dealer... They should be able to provide you a diagnosis for a reasonable charge.

You've tried your best from what I can see from this quote from post #16 in this thread:

"I have done so much research on each and every part that I have mentioned above lmao. Call me whatever but I like to know exactly what I'm getting into and I want to know how it works and why it's there and everything else. I could probably tell you everything you need to know when it comes to a cvt transmission. "
 

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A lot of times with this new computers in cars when you change a part say like the mass air flow sensor or throttle body, the car does either have to relearn or be reprogrammed to accept the new part. Also, maf sensors are best when purchased OEM, I've heared that some aftermarket mags have slightly different readings even brand new versus oem. Not saying you didnt go oem there though just trying to think of anything. I would be curious to see what would happen if you cleaned the old MAF real good and put it back in.
 

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Per article: P0113 Code: Everything You Need To Know - Solo Automotive Electronics

COMMON CAUSES OF THE P0113 CODE
Here are some of the things that could be causing your IAT sensor to return a high voltage.
  • – Dirty air filter. This will cause your intake to overheat but is relatively easy to fix.
  • – A faulty or damaged IAT sensor. This is a very common cause.
  • – Damaged wiring. Short circuits or stripped wires can cause all kinds of things to go wrong with your electrical systems. It can even be the root cause of a damaged sensor.
  • – A defective mass air flow sensor. This is less common, but it can cause your car to try to draw too much air, which can be the root cause of an overheated air intake.
  • – Faulty PCM. This is the most expensive possibility, but normally a faulty PCM will be doing more than just misreading the air temperature.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
Yay! So sorry life has been busy lately with the kiddos...... But update Murano seems to be doing A LOT better thankfully not 100 yet haven't put 2 more quarts of transmission fluid in yet but I'm getting there slowly obviously. Other than that she seems to be changing her gears better now hopefully by the end of next week she will be on the road for good..... Thanks guys for all of yalls help. It has been much appreciated.....
 

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Discussion Starter #36
A lot of times with this new computers in cars when you change a part say like the mass air flow sensor or throttle body, the car does either have to relearn or be reprogrammed to accept the new part. Also, maf sensors are best when purchased OEM, I've heared that some aftermarket mags have slightly different readings even brand new versus oem. Not saying you didnt go oem there though just trying to think of anything. I would be curious to see what would happen if you cleaned the old MAF real good and put it back in.



Okay so how do I clean it? Y'all cant tell from my pic but I'm such a blonde on some things and I bought all parts from auto zone it didn't register at the time that they was after market parts. Again I am a blonde don't laugh at least I'm being honest about it. Lol 😁😅😂🤣😁😇😇😇😇😇
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Okay so Miss Precious update. She is still broken the rpms are not matching up with the speed of the car. It's like they ain't insink with each other yet its doing better than it was when it first started. Just don't understand why this is happening just yet..... I've heard about retraining it after changing parts out but how do I do that or is it even so?
 

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Okay so how do I clean it? Y'all cant tell from my pic but I'm such a blonde on some things and I bought all parts from auto zone it didn't register at the time that they was after market parts. Again I am a blonde don't laugh at least I'm being honest about it. Lol 😁😅😂🤣😁😇😇😇😇😇
Ok I'm sorry about the vagueness. Cleaning the MAF sensor involves removing it and spraying a cleaner inside and all around the inside from both open sides. CRC MAF sensor is a good product to try. After removing the sensor, look inside and check the condition of, what look like thin fins that the air would flow through. Sometimes when very dirty you will see what looks like clumps of dirt on them. Try to spray on them and also the electrical connector. The maf measures the amount of air entering the engine and adjusts the fuel supplied respectively. Sometimes aftermarket MAFs will give slightly different values for the same amount of air being measured by an oem MAF and can be enough of a difference that you still experience the same problem. I hope that at least explains the cleaning of it and I'm sorry if its still confusing.
 

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Oh and I meant to bring up the MAF sensor in the first place due to the hesitation you were initially experiencing. It sounds like that has gone away for you and you are only experiencing cvt problems now so the maf may no longer be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update I got some of the cleaner and sprayed the maf sensor and code is still there I'm back running perfect well almost the hesitation is back and it came back strong. What makes it hesitant on a start off after its warmed up?
 
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