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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Help please! I'm trying to change of my rear brake shoes. Took me a few minutes to "break" the top pin (using 14mm socket and some WD4). However, it just keeps spinning and never comes out. I've tried persuading it with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer but it's just spinning. Another mystery is that now it doesn't seem to tighten back up either. I see a silver part that it's screwed into (indicated in 1st pic below). This silver part with threads doesn't move. The pin spins inside it but never moves further in or out. 1 Didn't notice that on anyone else's pics or video. If you have any ideas, let me know. Otherwise, it's off to the shop. Thanks in advance!
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Help please! I'm trying to change of my rear brake shoes. Took me a few minutes to "break" the top pin (using 14mm socket and some WD4). However, it just keeps spinning and never comes out. I've tried persuading it with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer but it's just spinning. Another mystery is that now it doesn't seem to tighten back up either. I see a silver part that it's screwed into (indicated in 1st pic below). This silver part with threads doesn't move. The pin spins inside it but never moves further in or out. 1 Didn't notice that on anyone else's pics or video. If you have any ideas, let me know. Otherwise, it's off to the shop. Thanks in advance!
The rear guide pins are threaded and screw right into the caliper (see pic). The silver insert in the caliper is where the pin slides in/out (i.e. the pin doesn't screw into that part). If the pin is rotating, but not coming out then the last person that worked on the rear brakes probably cross-threaded that bolt. You can verify this by trying to remove the other pin and if it comes out easy then you'll see what I mean.

You'll need to exert some outward pressure on the guide pin while trying to remove it to try to get the threads to catch. This may necessitate using vise grips on the shaft of the bolt that's exposed (covered by the rubber boot--it will get destroyed if you do this) or if the bolt has come out at least a little then you can try wedging a screwdriver underneath the bolt head while turning it out.

Once you get the bolt out, you'll probably need to repair the threads in the caliper with a thread chaser (and perhaps the caliper bolt itself although you may want to consider just replacing it). It appears to be an M10 bolt, but I can't seem to find the thread pitch--Nissan tends to use JIS so it may be 1.25mm pitch.

Also, don't take this the wrong way, but make sure you're turning the ratchet in the right direction (i.e. loosening and not tightening the bolt).

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow! You not only have great advice but you have psychic powers! I know this because I definitely tightened that pin at first...a LOT! After 15 minutes of getting nowhere (I finally "broke it" loose but it just spun) I went back inside to re-watch a couple of videos. That's when I realized that it looked like they were tightening the pins but actually loosening them. I actually listened to the ratchet sound and then thought of the pins' orientation. I really appreciate your information. I'll try it in a few hours and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again!
 

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Help please! I'm trying to change of my rear brake shoes. Took me a few minutes to "break" the top pin (using 14mm socket and some WD4). However, it just keeps spinning and never comes out.
For future reference - WD40 is not a lubricant, nor is it a penetrating oil. If you need a penetrating oil to loosen up screws or bolts, it's the wrong stuff to use. Get something designed for the use, like Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or a similar penetrating oil. Kroil may be hard to find sometimes, but it's among the very best.

Also, don't feel bad if you initially turned a bolt the wrong way, especially if you're in an awkward posture under the car. It's really easy to get turned around and think you're loosening when you're actually tightening. I've had to re-orient myself many times in such situations.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I really thank you for your advice. I've got some PB Blaster around here somewhere. I just saw the WD40 my better half bought for her squeaky car door. I'm working on the Murano in the driveway and we just started a light rain storm. Waiting for it to stop then I'm out there with vice grips and the 14mm socket
 

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Good luck! Give the PB Blaster time to work - at least a half-hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi guys! I finally just replaced the caliper. After several trips to Advanced Auto and Car quest for the wrong parts, finally got it on. Now my brakes go all the way to floor. I opened the bleeder screw on the new caliper, had my son press the pedal to the floor and hold it. Tightened the bleeder screw back up. I filled the reservoir up to the MAX line. When I tried pumping the brakes, after 2-3 times it started getting harder to pump but then the pedal went down to the floor again. Also, when I look at the piston when my son is pumping the pedal, it's barely moving. I'd appreciate any advice you can offer. I wouldn't be at this point without your help! Thanks in advance
 

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Hi guys! I finally just replaced the caliper. After several trips to Advanced Auto and Car quest for the wrong parts, finally got it on. Now my brakes go all the way to floor. I opened the bleeder screw on the new caliper, had my son press the pedal to the floor and hold it. Tightened the bleeder screw back up. I filled the reservoir up to the MAX line. When I tried pumping the brakes, after 2-3 times it started getting harder to pump but then the pedal went down to the floor again. Also, when I look at the piston when my son is pumping the pedal, it's barely moving. I'd appreciate any advice you can offer. I wouldn't be at this point without your help! Thanks in advance
If you're going to bleed the brakes the old-fashioned way, then you need to do the procedure correctly in the proper order. Follow these steps from the service manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

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BTW, never push the brake pedal when the caliper is removed or the piston can literally pop out of the caliper.

Frankly, I don't believe the original problem necessitated replacing the entire caliper assembly, but you are where you are now. So go slow, be careful, and don't brake anything else. Once you've bled the brake system of air, you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you so much! I am a MWF dialysis patient so I'm sleeping all day when I get home on some days. For out there today and bled the brakes in the suggested order. On the 3rd wheel, the pedal got stiff but I went on and finished the 4th. Thanks to all who helped me through this issue. I'm rocking and rolling again!
 
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