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I forgot to mention in my other post about the proper way to hook up a capacitor. Some may not know what one is, so I'll try to explain. It's quite simple. Think of it as a tiny battery that stores current for peak musical outputs from the amplifiers. It has a positive and negative post like a battery and also acts like a noise filter to eliminate some subtle alternator whines.

First off, it is better to run your ground wire seperate from the amps. Reason being is that you want to maximize the amount of power flow through the ground as much as possible. If you had it hooked up with the amps, all of your components would be "competing" for ground wire usage.

1) Connect power wire to capacitor from main battery.
2) Install ground wire connecting it to the vehicle side only.
3) Caps come with a resistor and you want to install this between the negative post and the ground wire. A light should illuminate. This is just an in-line resistor to prevent a huge-ass spark from the charging. (Caps come totally discharged new.)
4) Once the light goes out, remove the resistor and install the ground wire on the negative terminal.

Other common wiring upgrades you can do to help out your cars electrical system for more than average amperage loads are what some people call "The Big 3":

1) Upgrade ground wire from battery to frame with at least 4 AWG.
2) Upgrade ground wire from engine block to car chassis with 4 AWG.
3) Upgrade charging wire from alternator to battery with 2AWG in the shortest route possible. Install an in-line fuse equal or greater to the stock main fuse leading to the battery.

You don't have to replace the current wires, just add to them. This process usually eliminates dimming light problems and creates and easier charge path for the alternator.
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