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Hey Red Where did you get the white license plate frame. It looks like a good quality one. My last one started peeling after a couple of months. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hey Blinky19,

Here's where I got my rear plate frame…

https://europeanautosource.com/ind-painted-license-plate-frame.html

They actually paint them with matching automotive paint. In my case, the OEM Pearl White paint is a three-step finish and that is what they did. It matches my car's paint perfectly. The hinged screw covers are also painted. It has held up great with no chipping at all. Not cheap, but I am sure it will last as long as I own this car. Hope this helps and take care!

Jim
 
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Do you guys buy a license plate frame as a visual or functional accessory? I’ve always taken them off and see no use. Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Do you guys buy a license plate frame as a visual or functional accessory? I’ve always taken them off and see no use. Just curious.
Mostly visual as it makes the license plate look "finished". Rough unfinished edges of a license plate look pretty crude and then add a few rusted screws and you have a major eyesore hanging off the rear of your car. With a color-matched frame, I'm not looking for it to "pop" like a print or painting framed on my wall. I want the license plate frame to blend into the car and look like it's actually part of the car. In the end, it all comes own to a personal preference. Take care!

Jim
 

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I’ve always felt that the Muranos had a bit too much information stuck to their rear end. I know that Nissan needs to indicate the make, model, version, and equipment packages for all their cars, but man, it just looks too cluttered for my taste. I debadged my black 2009 LE (except for the Nissan burger) and really liked how it looked, so I decided to do the same for my 2017.5 Midnight Edition. There’s so much visually going on at the rear end of these Gen 3’s, especially it’s flowing hump and sculptured lines, that what worked on my Gen 2, sure didn’t work this time. The more emblems I removed, the worse it looked, so I decided to try something totally different. Starting with a blank canvas, so to speak, I made it look cleaner, but different, with just the important info. It might even pass as OEM if no one knew any better. I had a extra set of the larger “MURANO” letters from the 2009 LE and a “3.5” Nissan/Infiniti emblem that never made it on that car either. People always ask me what size engine in the Murano. I'm still not sure about the "3.5" badge and may take it off, but will live with it a while and see if it grows on me. All in all, I like the new look!

So, attached are a few photos of my 2017.5 rear hatch from stock to totally debadged to what it is now. If someone here is considering debadging their Gen 3, this should give you an idea what it will look like.

Take care!

Jim
I plan on going the same route as you did, but I'll be adding a little more to the left bottom.


A few questions before I start.


What weight fishing line did you use?


Did you use any kind of oil or lubricant to keep the fishing line from getting stuck?


Did you heat the old emblem before attempting to remove?


Thanks for any answers. This is the first time I'll be doing this and I like to get as much info as possible before starting.


Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hi Paul,

I usually pre-heat the emblems with a hair dryer until VERY warm to the touch. Some people use a heat gun on low setting, but I feel that's an accident waiting to happen. Not sure of the weight of the fishing line I use, but it's not the really thin stuff that people hang ornaments up with, but OTOH, we're not reeling in a marlin here either. :D

I've used dental floss in the past when I can't find my spool of fishing line and it too works just fine. Put on some gloves and wrap the line around both hands multiple times giving yourself some length in between to work with. Catch the edge of an emblem with the line and firmly, but quickly, pull across the emblem keeping the line parallel to the surface of the car. Moving your hands inward, right-left, right left seems to work well while pulling, but I've found a sawing motion tends to snap the line. The emblem should pop right off. Smaller emblems like the individual letters will fly off, so keep an eye out for where they land.

Next I soak strips of thicker paper towel, like those blue shop towels with GOO-GONE and place over the remains of the 3M VHB tape. I let that sit for up to a couple of hours, periodically re-spraying the towels with additional GOO-GONE. Once the tape residue is very soft, you can use a plastic squeegee to push it around into one glob and lift it off. Finally spraying a bit more GOO-GONE on and wiping with a soft cloth will remove what's left. A little soap and water wash followed by wiping with alcohol and the area is ready for different emblems or a fresh coat of wax.

Figure out your placement height (measure up from that separate piece above the license plate) and place a piece of blue or green painter tape level across. Check that the tape is STRAIGHT and LEVEL with a flexible metal ruler. The top edge of the tape will be your line for placement of the letters. Place a center line mark relative to the center rear of the car. My letters were placed on 3" centers, so make marks on the tape where you want to place the center of the letter. Pay close attention that the bottom end of the "U" and "O" will extend ever so slightly below the tape line. This is the common with rounded letters of that type.

Hope this helps and take care!

Jim
 
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Hi Paul,

I usually pre-heat the emblems with a hair dryer until VERY warm to the touch. Some people use a heat gun on low setting, but I feel that's an accident waiting to happen. Not sure of the weight of the fishing line I use, but it's not the really thin stuff that people hang ornaments up with, but OTOH, we're not reeling in a marlin here either. :D

I've used dental floss in the past when I can't find my spool of fishing line and it too works just fine. Put on some gloves and wrap the line around both hands multiple times giving yourself some length in between to work with. Catch the edge of an emblem with the line and firmly, but quickly, pull across the emblem keeping the line parallel to the surface of the car. Moving your hands inward, right-left, right left seems to work well while pulling, but I've found a sawing motion tends to snap the line. The emblem should pop right off. Smaller emblems like the individual letters will fly off, so keep an eye out for where they land.

Next I soak strips of thicker paper towel, like those blue shop towels with GOO-GONE and place over the remains of the 3M VHB tape. I let that sit for up to a couple of hours, periodically re-spraying the towels with additional GOO-GONE. Once the tape residue is very soft, you can use a plastic squeegee to push it around into one glob and lift it off. Finally spraying a bit more GOO-GONE on and wiping with a soft cloth will remove what's left. A little soap and water wash followed by wiping with alcohol and the area is ready for different emblems or a fresh coat of wax.

Figure out your placement height (measure up from that separate piece above the license plate) and place a piece of blue or green painter tape level across. Check that the tape is STRAIGHT and LEVEL with a flexible metal ruler. The top edge of the tape will be your line for placement of the letters. Place a center line mark relative to the center rear of the car. My letters were placed on 3" centers, so make marks on the tape where you want to place the center of the letter. Pay close attention that the bottom end of the "U" and "O" will extend ever so slightly below the tape line. This is the common with rounded letters of that type.

Hope this helps and take cares.

Jim

Jim,


Thanks for the walkthrough. I'll be taking before and after pics. I read that it's best to leave the lettering (emblems) in the blue foam holder for alignment, but you have to take into account height difference of the foam when placing the lettering. Did you do use the blue foam? I've brought all new emblems because I know that I'd never be able to get that VHB back on the emblems correctly.


Can't wait for this cold weather to be over with. Really stinks not to have garage to work in.


Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I read that it's best to leave the lettering (emblems) in the blue foam holder for alignment, but you have to take into account height difference of the foam when placing the lettering. Did you do use the blue foam?
On this job I took them off the blue foam for better "visual" alignment. Although 3" center-to-center was the starting point, the shape of the letter and the "negative" space between them determines what is more balanced and pleasant to the eye. It's called "kerning" in typography. If they were all the same letter, it would be super easy. Stand back, squint a bit and adjust as necessary. Just don't press the letters down until you are satisfied with what you see. Take care!

Jim
 

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Not a rebadge, but have been adding a few exterior items from eBay. Quite a few listings for chrome add ons, mostly around the lights.
Gives it a nice touch and sets it apart from all the other Muranos.
Can be removed also if needed to.
 

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Not a rebadge, but have been adding a few exterior items from eBay. Quite a few listings for chrome add ons, mostly around the lights.
Gives it a nice touch and sets it apart from all the other Muranos.
Can be removed also if needed to.
Got any pictures? I'll be adding a little chrome also. Just waiting for warm weather to arrive, like two more months before I can play with my Murano.


Have a good day.
 

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Looks nice. It looks the best on the brown MO. In both instances, I would add SL or SE or SV lettering to the left hatch area (where "Murano" typically is) to better balance the rear. I was/am planning to put some kind of lengthy word right where you have Murano. I was thinking of putting Murano lettering, but I think a longer word would better offset the license plate canopy. Even spreading out the letters to say "P L A T I N U M" might do it, but I'm planning on a much longer word with skinnier, compressed lettering. Nice job. I just debaged the rear Nissan clown nose on my 2021 today.
 

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That looks great! I'm a big fan of debadging myself but I usually replace some with custom acrylic domed adhesive units I get from EU-Decals.com
He can convert just about any clean jpeg or png image into a colored/chrome decal. I do love that personalized touch.
 
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