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Broke a bolt

When installing a new high-pressure hose in the power steering system, I broke off the bolt that holds a bracket in the back of the upper intake manifold. While tightening, the head of the bolt sheared right off -- I had not even gotten to the point of it being tight! There's barely a nub stilling out (nearly sheared flush).

For now, I just used a thin steel wire wrapped around the manifold and going through the hold of the bracket attached to the hose to keep it in place. It maybe wiggles about 1/4" (i.e. it's not 100% secure).

What's your advice on what I should do? I think at this point my amateur-mechanic days are over. Best case, I take it to an independent shop, they remove the manifold, are able to drill-out and re-tap the hold, and save the part. In doing so, do the gaskets on both sides of the manifold need to be replaced? How much would it cost?

Alternately, if I go to the dealer I would guess they would insist on replacing the whole manifold. Online the part is about $300 + $30 for 2 (?) gaskets. Dealer's mark-up appears to be around 50%. Plus labor I'm guessing this is looking like a $600 repair just to secure the hose.

Suggestions on what I should do???

Thanks!
 

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i replaced my power steering hose using this thread mostly. i found that somebody must have done this job before on my 05 murano because when i removed the windshield cowl the middle bracket was not bolted to the intake manifold. there wasnt even a bolt there. luckily i had a bolt that fit in my bucket of leftovers. also i found that getting the new hose in position is a pain in the neck. it finally worked when i decided to feed the hose up from the middle around the driveshaft. had just enough clearance to get the bracket and line through the hole. all in all not a bad job but can get frustrating getting the new hose into position.
 

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I am going to do the PS repair this weekend. Ordered the part from rockauto.com. Part comes as exactly the same as Oreilly's and costs ~45 + shipping. Any advice on removing the wheel well cover without destroying the plastic pins?

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2006 Murano, 67k miles, AWD
Just ordered from Rockauto as well, did it come with the washers and o-ring for the sensor?
I'll be tackling this job on the weekend, me thinks...
Times like these, you really wish you had a lift in your garage, sigh...
/Daniel
 

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When installing a new high-pressure hose in the power steering system, I broke off the bolt that holds a bracket in the back of the upper intake manifold. While tightening, the head of the bolt sheared right off -- I had not even gotten to the point of it being tight! There's barely a nub stilling out (nearly sheared flush).

For now, I just used a thin steel wire wrapped around the manifold and going through the hold of the bracket attached to the hose to keep it in place. It maybe wiggles about 1/4" (i.e. it's not 100% secure).

What's your advice on what I should do? I think at this point my amateur-mechanic days are over. Best case, I take it to an independent shop, they remove the manifold, are able to drill-out and re-tap the hold, and save the part. In doing so, do the gaskets on both sides of the manifold need to be replaced? How much would it cost?

Alternately, if I go to the dealer I would guess they would insist on replacing the whole manifold. Online the part is about $300 + $30 for 2 (?) gaskets. Dealer's mark-up appears to be around 50%. Plus labor I'm guessing this is looking like a $600 repair just to secure the hose.

Suggestions on what I should do???

Thanks!
I haven't changed plugs yet so I haven't had the fun of removing the intake manifold yet. But.....if the mainfold takes an hour or so to get off, I suggest removing it and having a machine shop clean it up for you. Total cost including gaskets will be quite low.

Sometimes bolts are faulty and they break. It does happen. Not fun, but the good news is that it's in a part which IS removable.

I have a broken exhaust manifold stud in the head of my my 1983 280ZX and I'm going to have to pull the head to take it to a machine shop. I will trade you jobs any day!
 

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So, I changed the high pressure power hose this weekend.
Used Rock Auto parts - buyer beware, the old hose on the car is Metric, the new hose is SAE :confused: Really annoying as I don't have SAE tools - or, NOW I do... Also, the Rock Auto parts comes with a washer and o-ring for the hoses, but not for the sensor. I used the old o-ring from the sensor, worked fine...

It really is straight forward. Remove wipers, plastic cover and metal cowel and loosen the bracket on inlet manifold.
I removed the wheel and inner plastic fender for better access.
Highly recommend getting a set of Flare Nut Wrenches (I got mine from Sears), really helps out...
I had an interesting time getting the connector on the rack tightened and thereby stopping it from leaking. Had to tighten everything very very good!
That said, I changed oil and filter while being down under the car, and got everything done and buttoned up nicely.
Probably would be able to do it in under 2 hours second time around...
/Daniel
 

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A power steering hose carries high pressure power steering fluid between the power steering pump and the power steering rack. There are 2 types of power steering hoses-a high pressure hose that carries the fluid from the pump to the rack and a low pressure hose that carries the fluid from the rack to the pump. You can probably identify a hose leak problem if you get a smell of burning oil under the hood of the car. This is usually accompanied by difficulty in steering the vehicle.
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2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS
 

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Ah,
Where did all the pictures go?
 

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Job done

Just completed this hose replacement on my daughter's Murano this morning. The repair took about 2 hours and the guidance and comments from this thread were very helpful. Here are a few comments based on my experience.

  1. I did take the passenger front wheel off, but not the wheel well panel. Not sure why you would need to do that.
  2. I removed the hose from the passenger wheel side once all bolts and brackets were loose
  3. After the hose is out, I held the connector where the sensor attaches in a vice and easily removed the sensor with a set of adjustable pliers.
  4. My largest difficulty was getting the banjo bolt and washers back on. I initially had attached the hose bracket at the top into the manifold, but I ended up taking that loose to give me more flexibility in moving that end of the hose and the banjo bolt around. This would be easy if you could get 2 hands in there, but I wasn't able to figure out how to do that.
  5. It does seem like you should need to flush and/or bleed this system once you are done, but I just topped off the fluid with Nissan fluid and it seemed to self bleed and work fine.
Thanks for the great forum!
 

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Could I have done anything wrong in making this repair that could cause the steering wheel to have an acceleration-dependent pull to the left or right?

Basically, I was in a recent car accident. I'm having a lot of problems getting GEICO to complete the repairs to the vehicle. They indicate there was nothing beyond body damage. However, since the repairs (about 3 or 4 months since replacing the high-pressure power steering hose), the car will pull to the left when accelerating. I'm trying to rule out anything about my repair so they cannot claim it was a pre-existing condition (and in fact, it was NOT pre-existing to the accident).
 

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Due to the frequent failure of this power steering line I thought I would take some pictures as I replaced mine today. This was my first time doing this job on the Murano so bare with me..

Vehicle: 2007 Nissan Murano AWD S

Tools Needed:
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
#10 wrench
#14 wrench
flat head screw driver
adjustable wrench
Pliers
#14 socket
#10 socket
Ratchet
bucket

Parts needed:
High Pressure line from Nissan Dealership $282
2 quarts of Nissan Power Steering Fluid $5 each
2 crush washers $2 each

Part #s
PS high pressure Hose & Tube Assembly part # 49720-CC10A 282.28

Power Steering fluid part # 999MP-AG00P 5.20

Gasket connector / crush washer part # 49726-Y0100 9.30

( I could have got the crush washers and ps fluid cheaper elsewhere but I wanted to make sure nothing went wrong )


Fist thing you need to do is remove passenger side tire. Then you need to remove the splash guard from behind tire. U will see the oil filter and power steering pump pulley.




Next thing you need to do is loosen the big banjo bolt from the pump. I didnt have a socket big enough so I used a big adjustable wrench. Once that is loose let the fluid drip into a bucket , pan of your choice.



Once that is done dripping I recommend putting a sandwhich bag on it so it doesnt continue to drip while you are removing it getting ps fluid everywhere.



Next you need to loosen two small 10mm screws that hold this bracket down and then loosen the hardline from the steering rack. Once the bracket is loose and hardline is disconnected you need to undo the plastic bracket holding down the rubber hose by unclipping the top and it opens up like a book.



Now to get the last screw out and to remove the power steering line you need to take the cowel off to make room. To do this you need to remove the two caps from the top of the windsheild wipers and then loosen the two nuts. Once from each wiper , they are 14mm bolts and once they are loose you need to really wiggle the wipers to get them off. Then you simply use the pliers to unclip the clips from the bottom of the cowel and remove. Then you need to unscrew all the little 10mm screws around the hard metal part of the cowel. Once that is all off it will look like this.



Then you will have access to the last screw here , loosen it and remove and the line is now free. Remove line and install new line in reverse order using two new crush washers. Make sure everything is tight and then fill reservoir with fluid and start car. Once engine is running the ps pump will suck the fluid out of resevoir into the lines and you will need to add to full line. At this point I got in car and turn wheel all the way left and all the way right with reservoir cover off to let the fluid work into the system and let any air pockets out of the system.. Total cost was $320 for all the parts and about 3 hours of my time , could have been faster but the last banjo bolt gave me a hard time.

Last bolt is behind the Intake manifold , you will see the shiny heat tape wrapped around the line and then you will see the bracket .




Finished with new part installed.




Old line for reference.
I'm new to this forum but your article was very informative. The pictures seem to have been removed. Is there anyway of getting them back?
Thanks
 

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Has anyone tried or know if there are any problems using the Edelmann 80648 hose from rockauto? Its only $28 so it seems too good to be true since all other hoses in this thread are $100. It has the heart symbol next to it which according to rockauto means its one of the best selling options and does not have a history of reported issues.

I searched this forum and google for an hour but couldnt find any confirmation thst this hose has worked well for murano owners.

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Yes I'm also interested in buying the one 80648 from Autozone. Are there any feedbacks on them?
Only difference I see so far is absence of that top bolt that tights line to some hot place? I'm pretty sure it is not so critical... Are there any other things I missing?
 

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If you guys are replacing it yourselves, for the price I say go for it. All you will lose is a redo if it does not work out. I like saving money myself all the time by using aftermarket but some stuff I like oem parts like this one. Good luck.
 

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Just completed this repair on my wife's 03, 86k mi. Thanks to the OP (apparently long gone, along with his pics... but his descriptions are spot-on, so no pics are really needed).

My one variations is, I could not, for the life of me, get the banjo fitting aligned enough to get the bolt started, while the post was in the 'saddle' on the pump fitting. I ended up shortening the lower 'prong' of the pump saddle detail by about 1/2, using a dremel tool and cut-off wheel. Then I could get the banjo bolt started, rotate the fitting to align the post with the saddle, and finish tightening the banjo bolt. When fully tightened, the post is still captured in the saddle.
 

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Maybe if you did not fastened the top bolt (intake area) and sensor electrical connection you would have more slack to position the banjo in perfectly. It sits exactly in the spot without any cutting needed.
 

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2006 Murano SL, 182K miles

Just replaced this hose yesterday. The replacement went without a hitch thanks to all the folks who posted their hard-earned experience. Best advice was to fasten the banjo bolt first, then the fitting to the steering rack, then the two bolts on the bracket, and finally the bolt on the rear of the intake manifold. I also remembered my dad's advice: fasten everything loosely until all the parts are in place then tighten them all to spec. Works a treat every time! Thanks again to everyone.
 

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I ended up passing on the cheaper hose. I cant remember exactly but I saw a post somewhere else suggesting that there might be some sort of regulator in the middle part of the oem hose that is missing in the cheap alternative hose. Couldnt find any other sources to back it up but it was enough to change my mind even with the popularity of the part of rockauto.

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