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Discussion Starter #1
My driver side window started making a loud grinding noise and I couldn't close my window completely. I was able to assist it manually to a fully closed position till I had time to look into it.

After taking it apart, it looks like the motor finally died since it was no longer budging when connected to the switch. I went to the wreck yard and grabbed a Regulator w/ Motor for $50. Motor seems fine when not connected to the regulator but when i bolt it on, it starts making the same grinding noise again. I figure it's a regulator problem so i ordered a new one from Amazon and installed it... the motor is still grinding. Is it a bad motor? It's turning just fine without the regulator installed.. maybe i got another bad regulator? Or the switch? Should i just purchase a new regulator w/motor assembly again?

It's a bummer not being able to order my coffee in drive thru. :(
 

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Sounds like one of the lift cables is dragging on something, or one of the two tracks is misaligned or loose and has too much play. I had to replace the pass-front lift a year ago, and it was pretty easy, but I don't recall exactly what might be causing what you're hearing. If your horizontal window sill seals are dry, you might consider opening your window all the way, using some silicone on a cloth to coat the inside of both sides of that seal to allow the window to go up and down more smoothly. Yes, it will leave some streaks on your window from time to time, but it wipes off easily. If there's too much friction from the seal on the glass, it can strain the lift motor unnecessarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I lubricated the regulator tracks and window sills as well. even without the glass installed, the motor grinds once it's mounted to the regulator but will spin fine on it's own.
I haven't opened the passenger side yet, but is it possible to use the switch from passenger to test the driver side?
 

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What are the odds that you'd have two bad regulators?

EDIT: Sorry...I guess I'm confused. The junkyard and some parts stores referred to the "motor" (the thing that sits on top of the cable housing) as a "lift," and they never said anything about a regulator. So, for clarity and possibly accuracy, you're calling the top part that detaches from the "cable housing" the motor, and calling what I'm referring to as the "cable housing" the regulator. Is that correct? If so, then what are the chances of two regulators being bad? Seems unlikely?

With the new regulator and motor, does your window go up and down all the way, despite the grinding noise? Are you using your old tracks, or did you use the ones from the scrap car? The only thing that makes sense to me, seeing as how the grinding noise is happening all the time, is that the position of the motor in relation to the mating point on the regulator is off, so it's stressing the motor or making it slip and causing that noise. I know when I replaced mine, it was inititally a chore to get the new motor aligned with my old regulator. The two points just didn't want to align correctly. So, I loosened the bottom-glass fastener, reinstalled the old motor, opened the window all the way, used my hands to make the glass move upward and then I wedged it so it wouldn't come back down, then I switched out the motor again and this time everything aligned properly. My thinking was, I had originally removed the motor when the window was in the fully closed position, and the motor I got from the junkyard was from a MO that had no glass, so perhaps the window was powered all the way down. Long to short, everything worked fine. Not sure if that really was the reason why it worked, but I know it did.

Perhaps your original motor slipped on the regulator and so its starting position is in the wrong place. If you then mount a new motor, perhaps that wrong position is causing internal stress or something, to let you know that something is out of whack. I'm certainly no expert on this subject, and maybe my explanation/idea is totally absurd and not in keeping at all with the way the window components work. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
EDIT: Sorry...I guess I'm confused. The junkyard and some parts stores referred to the "motor" (the thing that sits on top of the cable housing) as a "lift," and they never said anything about a regulator. So, for clarity and possibly accuracy, you're calling the top part that detaches from the "cable housing" the motor, and calling what I'm referring to as the "cable housing" the regulator. Is that correct? If so, then what are the chances of two regulators being bad? Seems unlikely?
Correct. I purchased this Regulator off Amazon hoping it would fix the issue. And the lift/motor I suppose is this guy, which I've replaced form the junk yard. 3 regulators including my original so I'm going to assume it's not the regulator, but anything is possible...

Window barely moves and is grinding (mounted on regulator) when i hit up/down on the switch but I'm able to manually assist it closed. I didn't want to put further stress on the motor so I've left it closed for now.

I'll open her up tomorrow when the weather is nicer and double check the mounting point of the motor. I'm wondering if the switch (relay?) is not providing sufficient power to the motor? Is that a thing? Ill take the entire assembly to the passenger side and see if it's acting any different...

Appreciate the suggestions. 🙏
 

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Window barely moves and is grinding (mounted on regulator) when i hit up/down on the switch but I'm able to manually assist it closed. I didn't want to put further stress on the motor so I've left it closed for now.

I'll open her up tomorrow when the weather is nicer and double check the mounting point of the motor. I'm wondering if the switch (relay?) is not providing sufficient power to the motor? Is that a thing? Ill take the entire assembly to the passenger side and see if it's acting any different...

Appreciate the suggestions. 🙏
I don't know exactly what makes this lift/reg work as far as knowing when to stop when the window hits the extreme "up/down opened/closed" positions, but perhaps there's a spring mechanism inside, and so on the way down the spring is winding up, and as the window goes up, the tension from the spring wanting to unwind (with the motor-assist) has more force to help move the window upwards (or, help spin the motor in that direction). If your window is down and the lift/reg mechanism is in the UP position, perhaps it doesn't have enough spring tension to help the window move up strongly, which is why you have to help it along. Basically, I guess I'm saying the same thing I said before, but perhaps in a way that makes more sense. :)

And, for that matter, maybe the motor itself has a "down/up opened/closed" sensor that tells it to back off at a certain point (or after a set number of revolutions), or that somehow has more power moving the glass upward than it would need dropping it down. Perhaps you need to attach the lift/reg, then close the window all the way, then remove the lift, then use the power button to open the window all the way (which will change the orientation of the lift mating point to the regulator), then bolt the lift back to the regulator, and maybe that's all it would take.

EDIT: It just occured to me that perhaps my slow-opening window is doing so because the orientation of my motor was wrong when I installed it. If we say that my idea works, then perhaps the car I got the lift out of from the scrapyard had its window partially opened. I now remember having to jog the power button a hair to get the lift to align with the tit-hub on the regulator. Maybe if I had gone two more revolutions on the lift motor before mating it to the reg, the window would go up quickly like the driver's front does. Or, if I was going the wrong way based on the window position, maybe the glass wouldn't have moved upward much at all. I'd say it closes two seconds slower than the other side.
 

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I'm pretty sure you can't swap lift/reg parts from side to side. The position of the motor lift would be in the wrong direction and the mounting holes to the door frame wouldn't be correct. Couldn't swear to that, but I'm about 75% sure.

When you bought the lift and reg at the scrapyard, did you ever remove the lift, or did you just bolt it up as is and it still made a grinding noise? I'm thinking if you removed the lift motor to test it out to see if it worked before installing everything, you may have (once again) changed the orientation of the lift-to-reg mating components. But the grinding noise on both the old and new really is strange. I really can't imagine you'd be that unlucky to have the same thing happen. If it was lack of power, I don't think you'd hear grinding, you'd probably hear nothing or maybe a vibration or whirring sound as the motor struggled with insufficient juice to operate properly.

This is an interesting problem. If the noise is 100% coming from the lift once installed, and if the noise of the original lift happened out of the clear blue without you or anyone tampering with it prior to it making that noise, I don't see what else would cause the motor to grind. Maybe just bad luck and third time's a charm...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You are right, Lift/Regs are not interchangeable. I was thinking to just plug the motor/regulator on the passenger switch to rule out potential multi switch problem on driver.

The entire assembly from the junk yard was installed as is without removal of motor. If all fails, i'll order a new regulator w/ motor from Amazon again and cross fingers.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if the electrical connectors are slightly different to prevent someone from hooking up the wrong part and causing damage. Any chance you can return the salvage yard pick and say it didn't work, and see if they can give you a different one?

If we say it's highly unlikely that two different lifts w/reg would generate the same noise, and we eliminate any user error in installing the parts since the first lift w/reg made the noise suddenly and wasn't touched prior to removal, then the only other logical cause would be that something is preventing the window from lifting smoothly/easily, placing too much stress/resistance on the lift/reg assembly. Maybe something inside that assembly (like a clutch) slips and makes a noise to prevent a catastrophic failure of the components. Is your door closing/sealing correctly? Any chance someone tried to pry open the door from the top area and that act twisted the frame, causing the window to rub just enough on the way up that it's placing too much stress/resistance on the lift motor and causing that supposed safety clutch to slip?

EDIT: With the lift w/reg detached from the door/window, does the grinding noise still happen? Or, is it just when everything is fastened in place to the door and glass? If you use your hands to slide the window up and down, does it appear to move fairly effortlessly or is it sticking? Putting on a pair of latex/nitrate gloves will make lifting the window a lot easier. Be sure to check the inside window frame channels on both sides to ensure nothing is jammed in there and causing too much friction against the edge of the glass. Maybe a piece of tape or twig or straw or whatever is stuck in one of the channels. Or maybe a piece of the rubber seal or felt has fallen off and is causing the problem. It's also possible that your window somehow shifted position on the rail fasteners (before you started taking things apart) and so as the window tried to go up, one of the edges started rubbing on the side of the window-door framing, which made the clutch slip. Perhaps the window is still not aligned and fastened properly, so it's still hitting the back of the channel and causing resistance on the lift.

BTW, when you say a grinding noise, is it a fast, constant grinding noise or a stuttering, stop-and-go kind of grinding? I don't really know much about this system...I don't know if a bad relay could send sporadic or low power and cause the lift motor to do something unsual and make odd sounds as it tries to engage under a load. If the grinding noise is sporadic and spotty, then maybe that could point to a relay issue. But I think the windows are on fuses, so if they are bad, nothing would work. Also, when everything is fastened to the door frame and glass, does the grinding noise happen instantly when you use the power swtich, or is it happening shortly after the window tries to move upward? And does the grinding noise happen when the window is being lowered?

EDIT: I don't see a relay controlling the windows. Looks like a fuse or two. Fuse Box Diagram Nissan Murano (Z50; 2003-2007) - But, could a dying power window switch or a chaffed wire cause intermittent power to the lift motor and cause the noise you're hearing? I'm obviously referring to the car's wiring harness from the button cluster.
 
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