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I think considering he didn't want to DIY and he discovered that he had two problems, he came out just fine.
 

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Had mine repaired (welded) today at a local panel beaters, total cost $46 including $6 tax. Took about 30 minutes to do the job from start to finish. As a bonus, also found 2 cigarette lighters, a Matchbox car and rubber ball under the seat from the previous owners (plus a few yen, it was a Japan import).:D I'll see how long the weld lasts, but I can afford to get it repaired quite a few times, before I spend around NZ$500 on a new bracket (I'm guessing that would be the approx. cost here in New Zealand based on the USD cost)
 

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murano drivers seat fix

My 05 Murano right rear seat Lifter Link bracket broke about a year ago. Dealer told me it was $1000 or more fix. Since I am the only driver I simply put a piece of wood under the broken Lifter Link bracket and drove on. I am very tall so my seat stays all the way back and down. I started reading posts and did some research and have replaced the broken Lifter Link Assembly with a new design Nissan #87473-CA01A that I purchased online from FactoryNissanParts.com (NISSAN of McKinney TX) at a cost of $91.22 plus $9.95 freight. Replacement of the bracket took about two hours time. It is substantially beefier than the original. Go to photobucket.com and search for Nissan Seat Fix to see photo’s of the new Assembly.

Before you start I recommend putting the seat all the way up and inspecting the front bracket to see if the front bracket is cracked but not full broken and carefully inspect the white gear on the end of the worm drive located inside the right side of the drivers seat bracket. This gear is also a problem and the subject of many posts. My seat moved fine with no one in the seat but when I removed the seat to repair the bracket I noted the gear was cracked. Nissan sells the complete drive assembly but not the gear itself. The gear is available from an injection molding company at OdomoterGear.com for $69.00. They also have an excellent three page instruction manual on their website. This is easily done while the seat is out but I did manage to replace mine later with the seat reinstalled and all the way up.

Nissan Service Bulletin NTB05-043d provides detailed instructions to replace the seat front lifter, rear lifter Assembly and the Lift motor assemblies. The Rear Lifter Assembly part number on the bulletin has been superseded by 87473-CA01A. The first nine pages of the bulletin are downloadable free online at ww2.justanswer.com. These plus a little common sense will get you through the replacement of the right rear Lifter Link Assembly.

For the complete 30 pages of the Bulletin Go to NissanHelp.com, select Service Bulletins then keyword filter = seat. This will bring up NISSAN Bulletin NTB05-043d. Join the service for $12.95 and you can down load the complete bulletin
 

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My 05 Murano right rear seat Lifter Link bracket
Nissan Service Bulletin NTB05-043d provides detailed instructions to replace the seat front lifter, rear lifter Assembly and the Lift motor assemblies. The Rear Lifter Assembly part number on the bulletin has been superseded by 87473-CA01A. The first nine pages of the bulletin are downloadable free online at ww2.justanswer.com. These plus a little common sense will get you through the replacement of the right rear Lifter Link Assembly.

For the complete 30 pages of the Bulletin Go to NissanHelp.com, select Service Bulletins then keyword filter = seat. This will bring up NISSAN Bulletin NTB05-043d. Join the service for $12.95 and you can down load the complete bulletin
Thanks for the info. Our 2007 Murano seat broke.

Two questions.

I have the TSB...I noticed step 48 and 49 was removing the Lifter Link Assembly RR-LH (87473-CA01A). I know that part is cracked and I ordered a new one. Do I need to do all those steps before? I assume I can skip some of that in the middle once I get the seat out. Just trying to figure out how much time I will need this weekend since the car will be out of commission while I work on it.

Our seat foam wore down...I suspect the one edge of the broken seat bracket was cracked for years but not completely broken. It completely snapped a few weeks ago and now the seat is wobbly. On the left edge toward the drivers door the seat foam does not fill the seat fabric. I saw foam shredding underneath the seat. Has anyone fxed the seat foam? I plan on just shoving some foam from the bottom of the seat to fill the spot and that should push the foam back up.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Any good upholstery shop can cut new foam and install it for you. Worth it in the long term.
 

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Any good upholstery shop can cut new foam and install it for you. Worth it in the long term.
Thanks for the info. It's just one small part...and I was able to get some high density foam and shape it to fit there.

I fixed the seat..I did notice it squeaks a bit when I get in it. If it doesnt go away, I will pull it out again and make sure everything is tight.
 

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I ordered a new one from the dealer and installed it myself. Worth every penny!
 

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The driver's seat on my 2009 Murano started shifting a little and making a clicking sound whenever I turned a corner. I thought it was the infamous seat problem until I read that the problem had been fixed with my model.

I looked under the seat and found a cross-bar toward the front that was loose. I tightened it with a 12mm socket that easily fit between the seat and center console and the moving and clicking disappeared in my test drive.

I didn't read all of these posts and apologize if this has already been posted, but I was thrilled at not having to spend any money at Nissan. I just had to replace the front motor mount that they so successfully engineered.
 

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I want to thank the members for the pix on page 11 of this thread.

In the last week, I've felt like something was loose and bumping around under the seat - today I lifted the LR corner and it lifted off the track. I'm fairly sure that this is the same problem shown on page 11, since the power adjustment works forward and back, the front lifts and falls, but when trying to bring the back of the seat up, only the right side lifts.

Doesn't seem like a big deal to me given the pix of the seat assembly. If the break is like the one shown there, any welding shop worth visiting can weld the part back together without a problem.

I'm busy this weekend, but the seat is fine as it is - it's in the right place and I don't need to move it. In a couple of weeks I'll pull the seat and if the problem is a broken part as shown in page 11, I'll take that assembly to a shop, have it welded, take some pix and put it back together. Ought to cost $25 or not much more.
 

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Don't just get the broken pieces welded back in. Reinforce the frame by fabricating a brace with heavier steel and weld that on to the broken area so it never breaks again. You'll see the broken pieces are made with rather thin metal, doesn't take too much work to weld a brace in while you're at it.

I want to thank the members for the pix on page 11 of this thread.

In the last week, I've felt like something was loose and bumping around under the seat - today I lifted the LR corner and it lifted off the track. I'm fairly sure that this is the same problem shown on page 11, since the power adjustment works forward and back, the front lifts and falls, but when trying to bring the back of the seat up, only the right side lifts.

Doesn't seem like a big deal to me given the pix of the seat assembly. If the break is like the one shown there, any welding shop worth visiting can weld the part back together without a problem.

I'm busy this weekend, but the seat is fine as it is - it's in the right place and I don't need to move it. In a couple of weeks I'll pull the seat and if the problem is a broken part as shown in page 11, I'll take that assembly to a shop, have it welded, take some pix and put it back together. Ought to cost $25 or not much more.
 

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Don't just get the broken pieces welded back in. Reinforce the frame by fabricating a brace with heavier steel and weld that on to the broken area so it never breaks again. You'll see the broken pieces are made with rather thin metal, doesn't take too much work to weld a brace in while you're at it.
An excellent idea! Thanks for the suggestion. Again, not a difficult thing for any good welder to do.
 

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Here's an update...

I pulled the driver's seat today. DO NOT get under the seat and start taking bolts out. That's not what holds the seat in.

To remove the seat in my 2007, there are only four bolts and three electrical connectors which need to be dealt with.

Steps:

1: Raise the seat as high as it will go and center it.
2: Fold the seat back as far forward as possible (makes the seat more compact and easier to handle)
3: Disconnect negative battery cable and wait at least 3 minutes (the seat has an air bag in it)
4: Each corner of the seat has a plastic cover over the seat base. With a large bladed screwdriver, I pried up on the end of each plastic piece and they popped off.
5: Remove the bolt which is now visible at each corner. I believe it's a 14mm.
6: Working form the back of the seat, follow the electrical wiring coming up from the floor and disconnect all the connectors. Each has a small push-in pin that will allow it to be disconnected. For the main harness at the front, you will need a pair of dikes or sidecutters to cut the zip tie holding the large wiring harness to the underside of the seat frame.

Now you can remove the seat out the driver's side door. The broken bracket will be discovered at the LR corner of the seat.
 

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If you do it the right way, it's no more than a 30-minute job to pull the seat, even for a novice.

Confession: I couldn't find my FSM CD at the time I started, so I wasted two hours pulling random bolts out of the seat from underneath. I finally gave up, rooted around long enough to find the FSM CD, went to the correct section and discovered how much time and work I had wasted.

NOTE: since battery will be disconnected for an extended period, you will have to do all the system re-learning procedures when you re-connect the battery.

Moral of the story: RTFM.
 

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I don't remember reading the need to disconnect the battery for a seat repair even if the FSM tells you so. Some steps in the FSM can be totally ignored or done another way without having any problems. One example is the cvt fluid change. Even dealers drain from the plug but FSM says to drain from the oil cooler line and no mention of the drain plug even being touched. Anyways, good luck man.
 

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I don't remember reading the need to disconnect the battery for a seat repair even if the FSM tells you so. Some steps in the FSM can be totally ignored or done another way without having any problems. One example is the cvt fluid change. Even dealers drain from the plug but FSM says to drain from the oil cooler line and no mention of the drain plug even being touched. Anyways, good luck man.
The only reason that I can see to disconnect the battery is to avoid an accidentally deployment of the seat air bag when you unplug the air bag wire harness to remove the seat, just to be safe.

Not a big deal to remove the ground wire from the battery, unplug the air bag wire harness under the seat, and reconnect the ground wire so you don't lose the engine's "learned" settings while you have the seat out.
 

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The only reason that I can see to disconnect the battery is to avoid an accidentally deployment of the seat air bag when you unplug the air bag wire harness to remove the seat, just to be safe.

Not a big deal to remove the ground wire from the battery, unplug the air bag wire harness under the seat, and reconnect the ground wire so you don't lose the engine's "learned" settings while you have the seat out.
Well, there you go. Sound like a better plan than leaving the battery disconnected for days.
 

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I don't remember reading the need to disconnect the battery for a seat repair even if the FSM tells you so. Some steps in the FSM can be totally ignored or done another way without having any problems.
I agree, but air bags are hideously expensive and going through a relearn seems like a cheap price to pay for insurance.

Got the seat to the welding shop today, they said they'd have it done in an hour for $75. They did it for $45.

Another great argument for knowing enough about cars to DIY!!

I'll post before/after pix later, but I'm heading out of town for the rest of the week tomorrow, so it's likely to be this weekend.
 

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OK...pix of the broken bracket, which is up close to the seat on the left rear corner:




And the welded version....please note that the welder added a bit of reinforcement material over the weld on each break, just to make the bracket stronger.






It takes about a half-hour at the most to remove the seat - refer to the shop manual to get an idea of how to remove the side panels. The handles on the power seat and recliner switch DO pop off.

A hint: before re-installing the seat, re-install the cover for the inside rear corner (passenger side) of the seat recliner...if you have removed it. It mounts with a screw which is against the center console and which cannot be accessed when the seat is bolted in place.
 

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Thank you Pilgrim and all the contributors on this thread. I am now part of the broken seat club too. I actually had 2 brackets snap. 1st was the left front and then followed by the left rear. I removed the seat per your instructions above (~30 min) and took to a welding and auto upholstery shop. An hour and $60 later I then reinstalled and reconnected and I was good to go. Thank you!


As a side note, I had the battery off for a long time (actually replaced it - whole 'nother story) so I went through all of the re-learn procedures I found here: http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/68-maintenance/16785-how-throttle-body-spark-plugs-firewall-valve-cover.html


When I finished, I still had the airbag light blinking on my dash. I rechecked all of the connections and determined they were fine. After a little digging, and speaking with a rep that supplies airbags, I was told to turn the key to the ON position and wait until the airbag light blinked on and then off (just 1 time), and then before it could blink back on again, I turned the key to OFF. I had to do that 4 times and then on the 5th time I started the engine. It took me 2 attempts to get the timing right, but once I did, the flashing airbag light turned off. Anyway, I thought others might run into that issue so wanted to share.
 
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