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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi dear community!

I've started having a weird issue with my Murano 2009. This issue happens occasionally, seems to be like 50/50, but once it does - I must jump start it to "reset" probability back to 50/50, otherwise it won't start and no lights remain on (as if no battery installed).

The issue: all appears to be working - the lights, the panel, the alarm, etc. Pressing start button without holding the brake turns on the system, audio, etc. But when I depress brake pedal and attempt to start the car, I hear one click (sound similar to when an arc happens with a spark) and all panel/interior lights immediately go off, making the car unresponsive. At the same time if I lean under the steering wheel and it's quiet enough outside, I can hear very faint sound which I recorded and attached here as "clickingSound.m4a.txt" (just remove .txt from the filename because it's an m4a audio file) . When it happened for the first time, I tried to disconnect the battery for few minutes and reconnect in attempt to "reset" the system (sometimes my back door is not opening and reconnecting the battery fixes it for some time). Doing so makes that faint sound disappear and indeed "resets" car to as appear to be "normal" state, but as soon as I attempt to start it again - it does the same thing, i.e. clicks and "kills" the car.

I thought I won't be able to start the car at all, until a friend of mine suggested it may be the battery. Battery age was 2.5 years, so I decided to replace it. I've called AAA, they came, tested the battery and said it's good, no need to replace it. They also were able to jump start the car to my surprise. Since then the car started normally about 4 times and we've been able to operate it, although when attempted to get back from a store - it did not start again. We used another car to jump-start it and called AAA agin to pay and replace the battery. Since the replacement the car again started normally and I even been able to go to a service and replace the oil with filter, although next day the issue returned back.

Right after replacing the battery I cleared all old DTCs in case the issue happens again. After it happened, I saved DTCs that popped up, here they are:
53441


And here are the FreezeFrames for each of them:
53440


I must add here that about 10 months ago the starter was replaced to an aftermarket one (original one died). So my suspicion is that it may somehow have a short circuit, but I have no idea why it "resets"/"fixes" after a jump start.

Did any of you guys ever have any similar symptoms? Do you have any thoughts about what it may be? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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I've had similar issues with my 2010 Murano. Press start, click, everything off. All accessories worked before starting but I also had the issue with the back hatch not working. Mine was a simple issue of the battery terminal connector was corroding. If it does not have a tight/perfect connection it will kill the power to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had similar issues with my 2010 Murano.
Very interesting! So you changed/cleaned the terminal connectors and the issue disappeared? Did you also notice that faint sound inside? I googled, but did not find what does it usually mean...
 

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Also, if you have had battery terminal for a period of time in the past, one or both of the battery terminal cables may have internal corrosion leading to high resistance... From reports, it appears the negative cable tends to be most susceptible...
 
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Very interesting! So you changed/cleaned the terminal connectors and the issue disappeared? Did you also notice that faint sound inside? I googled, but did not find what does it usually mean...
Yeah. That was it. Changed out the positive connector and problem solved. Similar sound. So I would think you have some similar issue. Make sure your terminals are clean. Also we had a similar issue before that did the same thing. Battery was tested and told it was good. But it was in fact the battery. Replaced and issue went away. I think your car just doesn't like the power it is given.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yesterday the liftgate failed again, i.e. not reacting to any buttons at all an only can be opened from inside mechanically. the car was starting fine though (and still does surprisingly). I went like that to an official dealership today for a diagnostic, just to be sure I'm not missing anything. They checked the car, said battery terminal connectors and fuse box are perfectly fine. They said they found a code B2424 (problems with rear cargo door latch assembly) and suggested to replace whole gate lock motor (90500-1CA1B) because they said it may be shorted and cause those issues with the car.

Obviously, the price they showed me was interstellar ($700 for the part, plus almost same for the labor), so I went home and found this exact part on E-Bay. But before ordering, just wanted to check with you guys if you think it's correct route. Does it sound like it may be the reason of these 2 issues (car not starting and rear door not reacting to buttons until battery disconnects)?

Also, wanted to check if this motor can be replaced without any additional "flashing". I'm asking because on one ebay listing I found a note in the description: "This is NOT a self install item! The body control module and gate control relay have to be flashed to sync this to your vehicle!" Is this actually true? If so, does it mean this only can be done by a dealership?

Thank you in advance.
 

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Imo I think it's the battery. 2.5 years is about right when it came to me replacing it due to the same issue. Even if it holds a charge and they say it's good. Like I said same thing happened to me and the issue was the battery. As the rear cargo door I'm not sure on that. How much is the part if you diy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the issue was the battery
I have replaced the battery a week ago. Since then the issue happened again once. I replaced the battery despite it was still showing good voltage and was passing a test... So it's definitely not a battery. I thought maybe, as you guys are saying, it's battery terminal connector (hose), but they tested it in dealership, including that fuse block (as they say) and it seems okay. Although, I still think there is a chance that it may be the reason...

How much is the part if you diy?
I just ordered in on EBay for $120. Will try to replace myself, although I am a bit frightened by that warning about flashing BCM: "body control module and gate control relay have to be flashed to sync this to your vehicle". I searched the internet, including this forum, but did not find anyone who replaced the same part in 2nd gen Murano :(
 

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I have replaced the battery a week ago. Since then the issue happened again once. I replaced the battery despite it was still showing good voltage and was passing a test... So it's definitely not a battery. I thought maybe, as you guys are saying, it's battery terminal connector (hose), but they tested it in dealership, including that fuse block (as they say) and it seems okay. Although, I still think there is a chance that it may be the reason...


I just ordered in on EBay for $120. Will try to replace myself, although I am a bit frightened by that warning about flashing BCM: "body control module and gate control relay have to be flashed to sync this to your vehicle". I searched the internet, including this forum, but did not find anyone who replaced the same part in 2nd gen Murano :(
As far as the warning is concerned, you need not be alarmed. It's plug and play.
 

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As far as the warning is concerned, you need not be alarmed. It's plug and play.
I'm with costee on this one. I do not see how it would have to be programed. So if I'm understanding you correctly, the car did not start again since the battery replacement? Did it at least help your issue? (Less frequent) I've always wondered if there could of been a connection between the 2. My murano still seems to loose power (draining) if it sits for a period of time. I also replace my starter. Mine takes awhile to drain and has been down for a bit (rack and pinion, clock spring, and few other things to do). I've had to charge the battery every few days even when not powering anything. If my murano sits for 2 weeks the battery is dead despite the battery being fully charged and 1 year old. Keep us updated if this fixes your issues. Might do the same repair eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you need not be alarmed. It's plug and play
Thank you Costee! That's a bit of relief! :)

the car did not start again since the battery replacement?
Right after replacement it started, and it started the next day when I went to a store, but I could not get back from the store because of the same symptom (click and all lights out). Had to jump-start it from another car. Since then we used it 3-4 times, including that trip to the official dealership (20 miles) - all good except that rear door stopped working next day after jump start (it opened normally via remote, then it failed to close - died like that).

Did it at least help your issue? (Less frequent)
Definitely less frequent, but not sure why. Maybe because the back door circuit is deactivated due to a shortage, the cars starts normally now... but maybe it's just a coincidence and it will happen again...

My murano still seems to loose power (draining) if it sits for a period of time..... If my murano sits for 2 weeks the battery is dead despite the battery being fully charged and 1 year old.
Same here. But I think during winter it was even worse - 5-7 days and I couldn't start it. I was thinking that it may be because of a custom 2-way remote we installed back in 2016, maybe something was off there... I remember there were couple of times when I tried to start the car after about a week, push the start button and it does not start, but either headlights turn on and stay like that (despite knob set to OFF) or wipers start working (also regardless of wipers knob position).

I'll definitely let you guys know how it goes after replacement... Thank you for your help!
 

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Maybe in the meantime waiting to install the part just disconnect the rear hatch wires. Not sure how hard that would be but then you might not have issues starting the car and you would know for sure if that is it I just popped the cover off and used the manual release for the hatch when I was working on mine and the battery was dead
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Maybe in the meantime waiting to install the part just disconnect the rear hatch wires. Not sure how hard that would be but then you might not have issues starting the car and you would know for sure if that is it I just popped the cover off and used the manual release for the hatch when I was working on mine and the battery was dead
That's how it is right now actually - only manual release works. I suspect that ECU simply disconnected that lock from the circuit after the shortage (that's my assumption), so it is not functioning. And if I disconnect the battery - it usually starts functioning again, meaning ECU restarted and connected all systems. But I may be wrong :)
 

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I've had to read your original post once again, and I think the answer lies in the codes posted. Although they read past, that's presumably because you had the system reset. That also suggests that there's no wire disconnection, but a failing component. The click under the steering, I think, is from the steering lock., and the car failed to start because the lock didn't disengage. You have an intermittent issue due probably to the fact that the steering lock relay is failing. The relay is an integral part of the IPDM. That's sad news in a way because the entire unit has to be replaced. Strictly speaking there's no connection with your back door issue, except off course your intermittent power outages may have caused a short in the back door assembly. It seems to me that Nissan Consult III tool was used in recovering the codes you originally posted. I'd suggest you re-scan before your next move.
 

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My murano still seems to loose power (draining) if it sits for a period of time. I also replace my starter. Mine takes awhile to drain and has been down for a bit (rack and pinion, clock spring, and few other things to do). I've had to charge the battery every few days even when not powering anything. If my murano sits for 2 weeks the battery is dead despite the battery being fully charged and 1 year old. Keep us updated if this fixes your issues. Might do the same repair eventually.
I've battled with that too before. The culprit turned out to be the alternator, a bad diode. Check yours. It's a possibility.
 

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I've started having a weird issue with my Murano 2009. This issue happens occasionally, seems to be like 50/50, but once it does - I must jump start it to "reset" probability back to 50/50, otherwise it won't start and no lights remain on (as if no battery installed).
This is indicative of a bad connection somewhere. Most commonly this happens with a loose battery terminal or ground connection (have you checked the ground cable all the way to where it terminates on the CVT?).

I was thinking that it may be because of a custom 2-way remote we installed back in 2016, maybe something was off there... I remember there were couple of times when I tried to start the car after about a week, push the start button and it does not start, but either headlights turn on and stay like that (despite knob set to OFF) or wipers start working (also regardless of wipers knob position).
If no loose connections or grounds are found, I'd suggest looking at this next.
 

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Hi dear community!

I've started having a weird issue with my Murano 2009. This issue happens occasionally, seems to be like 50/50, but once it does - I must jump start it to "reset" probability back to 50/50, otherwise it won't start and no lights remain on (as if no battery installed).

The issue: all appears to be working - the lights, the panel, the alarm, etc. Pressing start button without holding the brake turns on the system, audio, etc. But when I depress brake pedal and attempt to start the car, I hear one click (sound similar to when an arc happens with a spark) and all panel/interior lights immediately go off, making the car unresponsive. At the same time if I lean under the steering wheel and it's quiet enough outside, I can hear very faint sound which I recorded and attached here as "clickingSound.m4a.txt" (just remove .txt from the filename because it's an m4a audio file) . When it happened for the first time, I tried to disconnect the battery for few minutes and reconnect in attempt to "reset" the system (sometimes my back door is not opening and reconnecting the battery fixes it for some time). Doing so makes that faint sound disappear and indeed "resets" car to as appear to be "normal" state, but as soon as I attempt to start it again - it does the same thing, i.e. clicks and "kills" the car.

I thought I won't be able to start the car at all, until a friend of mine suggested it may be the battery. Battery age was 2.5 years, so I decided to replace it. I've called AAA, they came, tested the battery and said it's good, no need to replace it. They also were able to jump start the car to my surprise. Since then the car started normally about 4 times and we've been able to operate it, although when attempted to get back from a store - it did not start again. We used another car to jump-start it and called AAA agin to pay and replace the battery. Since the replacement the car again started normally and I even been able to go to a service and replace the oil with filter, although next day the issue returned back.

Right after replacing the battery I cleared all old DTCs in case the issue happens again. After it happened, I saved DTCs that popped up, here they are:
View attachment 53441

And here are the FreezeFrames for each of them:
View attachment 53440

I must add here that about 10 months ago the starter was replaced to an aftermarket one (original one died). So my suspicion is that it may somehow have a short circuit, but I have no idea why it "resets"/"fixes" after a jump start.

Did any of you guys ever have any similar symptoms? Do you have any thoughts about what it may be? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I just finished a similar problem but all facts lead to any positive connection leading from your battery check all and even harnesses but only that leads from the battery I promise it will fix your problem mine was a burnt positive relay harness to battery for starter and and ignition switch but starter was over with after getting it bench tested
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think the answer lies in the codes posted. Although they read past, that's presumably because you had the system reset.
I specifically did not clear the codes I posted in the first post before going to the dealership. I wanted them to see these codes and perform appropriate checks. Although, all they mentioned was B2424 (I did not even see such a code when I was scanning!), so I assume Steering Lock related codes were not related? Otherwise I would expect dealership folks to tell me that...

It seems to me that Nissan Consult III tool was used in recovering the codes you originally posted.
Excuse me, I did not get it, what do you mean? I indeed used Consult III tool and those screenshots are from the tool I used myself.

This is indicative of a bad connection somewhere. Most commonly this happens with a loose battery terminal or ground connection (have you checked the ground cable all the way to where it terminates on the CVT?).
Right, that's why I have asked those folks in dealership to check the terminals and connectors. Also, the battery was just replaced, so terminal look shiny as new and connections are perfect. Dealership said they checked these and they look okay.

If no loose connections or grounds are found, I'd suggest looking at this next.
Right, probably will if the problem persists, thanks.

all facts lead to any positive connection leading from your battery
They checked it in the dealership and found no issues. They must have sophisticated tools to do such checks... I hope...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Meanwhile, today I've gotten my lock mechanism. Firstly, it worth noting that while I was waiting for it and mechanism was not working (I assume its circuit is turned off), the issue was not manifesting even once. So the odds are in favor of theory that it may be the culprit. Second, there was a note in the package:
53498


I remember note from Costee, so will hope that this note is only for newer models which have same lock mechanism and not for 2009, where it's plug-n-play... Will try my luck on the weekend and let you guys know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I replaced that lock by myself today. It was easier than I thought. This video was helpful, after that the lock was pretty accessible. The only small issue was disconnecting the harness, but after trying some more it was done.

Right after I connected the harness and reconnected the battery, I tried to start the car. It was click'n'out again :( At first I felt very sad, because apparently the lock was perfectly normal. But then a thought visited me: what if it's not this motor, but the motor that opens up the back door? And it all suddenly made sense. I disconnected and reconnected the battery to "reset" the system, then turned off the button for automatic back door and the car started normally. I turned that button on while the car was idle and the back door opened/closed normally. I then turned it off again and the ensured that the lock works when car is on/off. So I think that the short circuit happens in that other motor which opens the door itself. I'll keep it like this (turned off) for some time and then will see. At least I can operate the car now!

Thank you very much everyone for the help! I hope this post will be useful for others.

P.S.: I did no flashing whatsoever, so @Costee was right - for 2009 it's plug-n-play.
 
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