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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Hoping someone on here can lend some advise.

My engine splash shield underneath the car has come loose and is hanging on the passenger side. It's dragging on the ground.

I looked beneath and see that all the other points of the shield are held in by push clips, but when I removed a push clip and tried it on the part that is hanging, the clip is too small. I also noticed the clip on the driver side appears loose and is about too fall out as well.

I am attaching a picture of the two points where I am missing clips. Can anyone advise if those points are supposed to be attached by clips or screws?

I actually have more clips missing (not sure if dealer broke them during oil change or if they broke off sequentially overtime).

I checked with the dealer over the phone and they said its a plastic clip, but the advisor wasn't sure without "seeing the part I am referring too". They quoted me $14 for the clip........

Picture attached...
 

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Push pins...I have to remove those two once a month to change my oil. You can refer to this thread for pics...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I will definately check out the post. I search for forum for Splash Shield but didn't think to search for undercarriage. That's why I missed the post.
 

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Push pins...I have to remove those two once a month to change my oil. You can refer to this thread for pics...
Cryogenix1

If you have to change your oil that much, make your life easier and cleaner by installing a:

Amazon.com: Fumoto Original F103N with LC-10 Lever Clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack : Automotive
Gas Cylinder Machine Metal Auto part


When installed, the nipple is slightly above the bottom of the oil pan and is still protected by the shield. After installing, measure back from where the nipple ends about 4 - 6" on the shield and drill a 3/4" hole for the hose to pass thru.

No more pulling those plastic pins that tend to break or somehow get lost in the few minutes that they are out. No more pulling the shield out of the way, but best and not least is not having to deal with the oil gushing out as you're removing the drain plug.

Another advantage is you can drain the oil while the engine is still at temp without burning yourself although you do need to avoid the exhaust pipe while installing the drain hose. I use a long welder's glove to install the drain hose to avoid burning myself.

I'd read that they don't fully drain all the oil, like when removing the drain plug itself. The second time I did an oil change, after oil stopped draining out the hose, I removed the Fumoto valve. A little over a 1/4 cup of oil came out, not enough for me to worry about. I change my oil every 7,500 miles.

Have a good day.
 
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Cryogenix1

If you have to change your oil that much, make your life easier and cleaner by installing a:

Amazon.com: Fumoto Original F103N with LC-10 Lever Clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack : Automotive


When installed, the nipple is slightly above the bottom of the oil pan and is still protected by the shield. After installing, measure back from where the nipple ends about 4 - 6" on the shield and drill a 3/4" hole for the hose to pass thru.
Yes, I remember you mentioned this in another thread, possibly the one where I talked about changing the oil. Initially I had imagined something like what you've mentioned, but more petcock-like. Until my warranty is up I'm not going to tamper with anything, even though installing such a device shouldn't void any aspect of any warranty. Playing it safe. Also, I'm very careful removing and reinserting those plastic push-pins so my car doesn't end up like so many. Since my original post about seeing so many Nissans with dangling oil pan shields, I've seen even more, and not just on Nissans. Whoever is removing/replacing those pins may be forcing them in and damaging them.

I'm a little unclear on how exactly that drain valve is protected by the skid shield if I have to drill a hole through that shield in order to gain access to that release lever to allow oil to then drain through the hose. It sounds like you're saying the hole that's bored through the shield is an exit point for the drain hose. If that's the case, are you just sliding your hand above the shield to depress that drain lever? Do you have to keep pressure on that lever in order for the oil to drain, or does it lock in place when first depressed, and then depressing it again releases it and it returns to its home position where everything is sealed? I suppose I could just follow the link to find out... :) I've done 13 oil changes since April. I change the oil every 2500 miles, despite using Mobil 1 that's rated for 10,000 miles, and I changed the original filter and oil after 500 miles. Definitely overkill, but by doing the oil that frequently it gives me a forced opportunity while the car is jacked up to inspect the suspension and other undercarriage aspects to ensure no problems exist.
 

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It's very easy to miss install those push pins. Both pieces need to be mated closely and the push pin needs to be pushed/expanded just right to capture both pieces. I've had some close calls with my '03 oil filter area splash shield being lose, luckily caught it and reinstalled the push pin more carefully. When installed correctly they work surprisingly well for such a simple and inexpensive attachment system...
 

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It sounds like you're saying the hole that's bored through the shield is an exit point for the drain hose. Yes If that's the case, are you just sliding your hand above the shield to depress that drain lever? Yes Do you have to keep pressure on that lever in order for the oil to drain, No or does it lock in place when first depressed, Yes and then depressing it again releases it and it returns to its home position where everything is sealed? Yes
Question # 2 is where the welder's glove comes in. Reaching for the lever, going by the hot exhaust pipe.

I really wouldn't worry that this little mod will void a warranty. If this get broken off, you'll have some other significant damage to the under carriage also. At that point it's an accident needing repairs.

Have a good day.
 
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Question # 2 is where the welder's glove comes in. Reaching for the lever, going by the hot exhaust pipe.
I never change the oil until after tha car has been sitting overnight, that way as much oil as possible has drained down off the parts and back into the pan.

Just out of curiosity, do you plug the end of the drain hose just in case the valve suddenly starts leaking?
 

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I never change the oil until after tha car has been sitting overnight, that way as much oil as possible has drained down off the parts and back into the pan.

Just out of curiosity, do you plug the end of the drain hose just in case the valve suddenly starts leaking?
I drain my oil hot, then leave it draining a couple of hours or overnight to get as much as possible out, including what's in the oil pan...
 

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The night before, if I plan to do change the oil the following morning, I place an electric blanket over the engine to help the parts and oil stay warm so that every drop easily drips back into the pan. :)
 

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The night before, if I plan to do change the oil the following morning, I place an electric blanket over the engine to help the parts and oil stay warm so that every drop easily drips back into the pan. :)
I think if the makers of Dos Equis ever read your posts on these forums, they would make you the new "Most Interesting Man in the World"! :p:coffee:
 
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I think if the makers of Dos Equis ever read your posts on these forums, they would make you the new "Most Interesting Man in the World"! :p:coffee:
I hope you realize I was just kidding. I was trying to one-up MuranoSL2003 in anticipation of him taking it even further. I guess it just didn't land right...
 

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I had no intention of taking anything further, I was just mentioning my method. It's nice to get all the oil drained off the upper engine areas, but the dirtiest slugiest stuff is at the bottom of the pan... I would think draining it hot would more fully remove it... It's probably not significant enough to worry about...
 

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I drain my oil hot, then leave it draining a couple of hours or overnight to get as much as possible out, including what's in the oil pan...
Draining the oil hot has shown to remove more sediment off the bottom of the oil pan as it's flowing out then when the oil is cold.

I never change the oil until after tha car has been sitting overnight, that way as much oil as possible has drained down off the parts and back into the pan.
You're doing your engine a disservice.

Fact: 99% of the engine oil will drain down to the pan, IF the oil is at operating temp, above 180 degrees, within 10 minutes of turning off the engine.

If you've ever been to a quick lube, they always wait about 5 minutes before pulling the drain plug and then wait another 5 minutes before replacing the drain plug for a full drain. Their "15 Minute Oil Change" is based on this, with the time starting when the car enters the bay, ending when it's pulled out.

At one point in time, living in SF after hurricane Andrew in '92 came thru, I was driving a Ford E150 Econoline with S6/4M with the shifter on floor. Always changing the oil at 3K miles faithfully, I was racking the 3K in less than two weeks traveling down to the Keys daily, 7 days a week for work. Had the oil change down to a science. Pull in the driveway, grab the wrench and oil catch pan and pull the drain plug. In the AM, I'd go out, spin off the old oil filter and install the new one and install the drain plug. While getting ready, I'd go out and dump another qt of oil in the engine until it had its 6 qt's.

Yea, I was buying two cases of oil at a time alone with a dozen filters.

I bought the van with less than 30K miles from an elderly couple who had purchased it from the CA State Forest Fire Department with 24K miles. Custom fleet order of 500 vans from Ford that were being auctioned off (EOL). E150's with a 12' bed (Normal on a E150 was either 8' or 10' length bed.), 300CI S6 with oversized oil pan (Normally a 170, 200, or 240CI engine.), 4SP manual transmission with the shifter on the floor (usually on the column.), side sliding door, and no windows except the rear doors.

I sold the van with over 300K miles and you could still burn rubber in first and if you power shifted, you could spin the rear tires in second also. That 300CI straight 6 still had plenty of life left in it and was one of the quietest engines I ever had. Other than the oil and gas, the only work I did was 2 full clutch replacements and I had to rebuild the 4 speed tranmission due to the seals for the shifter rods dry rotting and leaking.

Have a good day.

PS As I remember, I also did have to rebuild the carburetor one time and was also doing the standard tune-up at around 40K. Other than that, one of the most reliable vehicles I owned.
 
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Draining the oil hot has shown to remove more sediment off the bottom of the oil pan as it's flowing out then when the oil is cold.

You're doing your engine a disservice.

Fact: 99% of the engine oil will drain down to the pan, IF the oil is at operating temp, above 180 degrees, within 10 minutes of turning off the engine.

If you've ever been to a quick lube, they always wait about 5 minutes before pulling the drain plug and then wait another 5 minutes before replacing the drain plug for a full drain. Their "15 Minute Oil Change" is based on this, with the time starting when the car enters the bay, ending when it's pulled out.
I think you're calling the sky blue instead of the grass green. (I just came up with that - Copyright 2022 Cryogenix1 - All Rights Reserved) :D

Unless I'm missing something, I don't see the benefit of draining the oil after the engine/oil is hot. When I drive into the garage and turn off the engine, everything's already hot and the oil has the remainder of the night to leak back into the oil pan (be it over the next 10 minutes or 10 hours). If I start the engine and drive around to get the engine/oil hot, then return home and wait five minutes to drain the oil, then wait a little longer in order for "residue oil" that's coating other parts to slowly make its way to the pan after however many minutes, I don't see the benefit. Seems like I'm just spending time twiddling my thumbs waiting for things to drip down.

I'd argue that draining the oil almost immediately after the engine has reached operating temperature produces a much longer waiting game for the draining process than draining the oil once the car has sat overnight. Now, if the car was parked outside in freezing temps all night, where when the engine was turned off the oil would cool faster and not leech down as quickly or as thoroughly as it would under warmer conditions, then I'd say what you're saying makes sense. But having oil splash all over the parts in the upper engine in no way seems quicker or better than letting the engine rest overnight where hours of gravity are at work to bring the oil back into the oil pan while you sleep peacefully in your bed not having to think about if you've waited long enough to get the most oil out. :)

Ultimately, the small amount of oil retained in the system using either method is truly insignificant and not cause for alarm.
 

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Just out of curiosity, do you plug the end of the drain hose just in case the valve suddenly starts leaking?
I do have a rubber cap over the nipple when not in use. I have it on just to keep dirt out.

Something has to physically push the lever down against spring tension to clear the holding notch at the closed position and then move it to the open position. Considering it's up under the shield, it would have to be an awfully smart piece of debris bouncing around to do this.

Have a good day.
 
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@Cryogenix1 changes his oil very often, so probably it's not a not as big an issue as someone who goes too long between changes...

And, seeing his '03 made it to 300k, I guess frequent oil changes negate worrying about what remains in the oil pan from draining it cold...
 
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I'd argue that draining the oil almost immediately after the engine has reached operating temperature produces a much longer waiting game for the draining process than draining the oil once the car has sat overnight.
Perhaps the reason it takes longer to stop draining when it's hot is due to the oil draining more completely than when it's cold?
 

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Perhaps the reason it takes longer to stop draining when it's cold is due to the oil is draining more completely when it's hot?
You guys are starting to scare me.
  • The engine/oil was hot when I stopped the engine.
  • That hot oil drains into the pan overnight.
  • That now-cold oil (that's already in the pan) is now drained out. There's no more waiting for cold "ghost" oil to to seep down from above since it's been seeping down overnight.
Seems to me, it's as thorough a drain as you're ever going to get unless you jack the car up and down and try to force pooled oil in the heads to make its way to the ports. :)
This "cold" oil phenomenon that keeps being mentioned truly baffles me. Now, will it take longer for the cold oil in the pan to drain than hot oil? Probably. But the point is, as much oil as possible is already in the pan from being left alone overnight, so it doesn't really matter.
 

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I think we are talking about what's in the pan...
 
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