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Engine won't start (battery fine, even with jump start)

5563 Views 30 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  I need coffee
I have an odd issue with my murano. For a number of months its been failing to start in the mornings and I put it down to an issue with either the battery or alternator, I have a power pack and jump started it no problem.

However, last week it wouldn't power up at all. The odd thing is I'd been driving the car for over an hour, and only turned off the engine for about 15 minutes before getting back in (i.e. battery would have had plenty of charge).

Even the recovery truck failied to get it going with a jump start and were baffled.

I've looked at the battery etc and found:-
  1. Battery has plenty of charge (12+v)
  2. jump starting usually allows me to get some power (enough to sometimes get the doors unlocked) but the power even from that dissipates in a few seconds
  3. Both key fobs have new batteries, and I've swapped them over
  4. I DID have a yellow 'key' warning indicator appear on some occasions
  5. Sometimes, when reconnecting the battery, the car alarm goes off, but then stops after a few minutes
  6. holding the keyfob by the start / stop doesn't do anything (I understood that possibly the RFID tag in the key is passive so would work this way)
So, I'm totally stumped. I was hoping someone would be able to offer some thoughts about what this might be?

At the moment my 2 thoughts are :-

  • Immobiliser faulty?
  • Ignition system faulty?
I can't see how it could be anything else, there is no parasitic drain on the battery and even if there was surely a jump start would cure that anyway.

Any help much appreciated!
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Was the steering lock failure...same as mine
What was the steering lock failure? I looked at your thread for that but there were no replies or further details. Did you replace with an emulator or replace the steering lock?
Tried an emulator...not worth as it didnt work consistently.

As for the steering lock mine failed in the open position i.e. lock pin wasnt preventing wheel from turning. I had the key light on the dash for quite a while before I replaced the lock. But the electronics let the car start as normal everytime although sometimes would have to cycle off and on before it would turn over.

But I know of 2 owners here whose locks failed and their cars were just dead. Couldnt start it no matter what they tried.

The replacement part is relatively cheap and improved design. They even did one without the pin and only electronics when they first started to fail on a lot of nissans.
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Wonder if this failed component gets identified in the fsm troubleshooting procedure for a no-start. I hate no-starts where the car can't tell you what's wrong by setting a code. In those cases you need something to go by to identify which interlock is holding things up.
But I know of 2 owners here whose locks failed and their cars were just dead. Couldnt start it no matter what they tried.



He said the ground wire was bad. What was done with it?
Did anyone check the CAN for signals? Or the resistance check? And make sure all modules were communicating?
Did the person just disappear?
Post #25 is exactly what I was talking about in this other thread about bots and backlinking. Notice the poster is from another country (Turkey) and copied language from post #23 and came back a few hours after the original post to edit in backlinks to some questionable websites (look at the lower right corner of the post above the "Save" and "Share" links and you'll see them with font-size reduced).

That poster did the same thing in this thread. That user should be banned and posts deleted.
Post #25 is exactly what I was talking about in this other thread about bots and backlinking. Notice the poster is from another country (Turkey) and copied language from post #23 and came back a few hours after the original post to edit in backlinks to some questionable websites (look at the lower right corner of the post above the "Save" and "Share" links and you'll see them with font-size reduced).

That poster did the same thing in this thread. That user should be banned and posts deleted.
Banned. Links attached weren't healthy. Removing posts also.

Have a good day.
And since this post was resurrected, I thought I'd at least add something useful to the discussion on why the steering lock mechanism might cause a no-start. There are a bunch of DTCs associated with the steering lock mechanism, if present (not all of the 2nd generation has this--mine doesn't). The fail-safe for a fault in the steering lock mechanism is the BCM will not let the starter motor activate (...BCM grounds the control side of the starter relay circuit and provides power to the control side of the starter control relay circuit). See the example DTC description below.

Not sure why Nissan implemented this as a fail-safe as it doesn't seem to be necessary to me, but I guess it's another thing to consider if the engine won't crank and everything else in the starter system seems to be o.k. This is definitely another reason why it's good to have a scan tool that can read body and chassis codes as I suspect the OP would see DTCs related to the steering lock mechanism if that's what is causing the no-start.

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Based on the comment that the shop the OP took it to can't connect to pull codes because the start switch doesn't cycle through the various power states, this seems like it's going to end up in the PCS section where you have to troubleshoot the push button start switch and figure out why the it's not going into ACC mode where you should be able to connect a code reader to it. The manual is expecting you to use a consult device so if that's using a different comm network than regular scan tools all bets are off.

I read through the various chapters for no-start troubleshooting and you go from starting system (STR) to security control system (SEC) to power control system (PCS) because all of them expect you to be able to communicate with the various modules when you push the button (using a consult device). The fact that this one doesn't power up to talk seems like it's pointing at the push button. PCS-65 has you check for power and ground at the switch harness and confirm continuity to the BCM. Seems like you have to start way back there if the thing won't cycle through the power states.

And I THINK i learned that my rig doesn't have the steering lock. From what I think I read is the steering lock should go to the lock state with the door open and the ignition switch in the OFF state. Mine doesn't do this so I'm assuming I have no steering lock (hooray!). But I'm not really sure. It sure looks like alot of things can get in the way of the car starting.

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Here's why I think I don't have a steering lock. I don't know how to check if I'm supposed to have a steering lock other than crawling around and looking for it. I really hope I don't have one as it seems like just another thing to malfunction and disable the vehicle (and $$$ to replace). If the immobilizer or the age of the car doesn't prevent it from getting stolen, I seriously doubt a steering lock will. This is another system I'd want to disable for sure but it looks really super integrated and mandatory to have working in order to enable starting.
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Based on the comment that the shop the OP took it to can't connect to pull codes because the start switch doesn't cycle through the various power states, this seems like it's going to end up in the PCS section where you have to troubleshoot the push button start switch and figure out why the it's not going into ACC mode where you should be able to connect a code reader to it. The manual is expecting you to use a consult device so if that's using a different comm network than regular scan tools all bets are off.

I read through the various chapters for no-start troubleshooting and you go from starting system (STR) to security control system (SEC) to power control system (PCS) because all of them expect you to be able to communicate with the various modules when you push the button (using a consult device). The fact that this one doesn't power up to talk seems like it's pointing at the push button. PCS-65 has you check for power and ground at the switch harness and confirm continuity to the BCM. Seems like you have to start way back there if the thing won't cycle through the power states.
Good catch. I overlooked the OP said his mechanic couldn't get a scan tool to work. After some further research, this language from the SCS file may explain why...notice that the the BCM turns on the power supply to the accessory relay (#9) and ignition relay (#10) after the steering lock is confirmed to be in the "unlock" position (#7). Quite fascinating that in order to pull the DTC you probably have to fix the fault first, :). Seems like a possible engineering flaw to me and now it's obvious why the engine won't start since that would be a bit difficult when the ignition relay won't energize.

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Frankly, this absence of the steering lock mechanism in the Starting System section of the FSM is a big oversight by Nissan, IMO. Anything that can cause a no-crank no-start should be clearly spelled out in that section. Dealerships and "professional mechanics" should not be "at a loss" of what the problem might be if the steering lock mechanism fails.

Here's why I think I don't have a steering lock. I don't know how to check if I'm supposed to have a steering lock other than crawling around and looking for it. I really hope I don't have one as it seems like just another thing to malfunction and disable the vehicle (and $$$ to replace). If the immobilizer or the age of the car doesn't prevent it from getting stolen, I seriously doubt a steering lock will. This is another system I'd want to disable for sure but it looks really super integrated and mandatory to have working in order to enable starting.
Power supply to the steering lock is Terminal #11 of the IPDM (pink wire). If it's missing, you don't have a steering lock.

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