extended coverage, which?
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Unless you are thinking you may be short on cash and need to add it to the payments now, wait and buy it later when you have time and not under pressure. You might even be able to shop around for it and save a few $$. You can buy Nissan's extended warranty (Prefered gold plus is the one I recommend) any time as long as your Original 3 year/36,000 mile warranty is in force.gychang said:
Don't know about which one is the "BEST" but I just picked up an '06 SL and did in fact pick up the pref. gold package for about $1800. The sticking point with me is that the SL has the backup camera and mine has the BOSE, which the pref. gold will cover. Also the kicker was that the $1800 is refundable if I don't use it.
Basically what the guy told me is that if it is 5 1/2 years in, and I need something fixed that would run like $1200, I can opt to pay the $50 deductable and get it fixed, or pay the $1200 (because you would be so close to the 6 yr. mark) and then get the $1800 back when 6 yrs. comes around..
He also said that previously this was not refundable.
Basically what the guy told me is that if it is 5 1/2 years in, and I need something fixed that would run like $1200, I can opt to pay the $50 deductable and get it fixed, or pay the $1200 (because you would be so close to the 6 yr. mark) and then get the $1800 back when 6 yrs. comes around..
He also said that previously this was not refundable.
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sorry raycie!
I totally was blind sided when I went to finance thinking I was done with the negiotiating and got hit up on the extended warranty. I do not know the lowest possible price but I did a bit better than raycie. I "only" paid $1k. I still don't know if that is worth it but the fact that the entire car is electronic and I only have high school auto tech class knowledge, lead me to the warranty. I still think its BS and I highly doubt they will give us our money back if you don't ever use the warranty. Read the details further. They do have info on their website. I printed it but haven't read it thoroughly yet. It's all in legal terms as well to screw you over.
I totally was blind sided when I went to finance thinking I was done with the negiotiating and got hit up on the extended warranty. I do not know the lowest possible price but I did a bit better than raycie. I "only" paid $1k. I still don't know if that is worth it but the fact that the entire car is electronic and I only have high school auto tech class knowledge, lead me to the warranty. I still think its BS and I highly doubt they will give us our money back if you don't ever use the warranty. Read the details further. They do have info on their website. I printed it but haven't read it thoroughly yet. It's all in legal terms as well to screw you over.
Raycie I've actually got the paperwork in front of me- "Security Plus" Vehicle Protection Plan.raycie said:
60 months/60,000 miles.
Gold Preferred
$50 deductible.
Purchase price $714
I'm a tough one when shopping for a car. I made the dealer show me his figures on what it cost for the warranty, and then added a few $ as a sign of good faith.
Sorry, I just realized that your question was for the poster ABOVE me...
Raycie I've actually got the paperwork in front of me- "Security Plus" Vehicle Protection Plan.raycie said:
60 months/60,000 miles.
Gold Preferred
$50 deductible.
Purchase price $714
I'm a tough one when shopping for a car. I made the dealer show me his figures on what it cost for the warranty, and then added a few $ as a sign of good faith.
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I got the 60,000 mile one.
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Now I feel ripped because cause beat mine by almost $300. Good Job Koz! So anyone out there really think they will refund the full amount if you don't use the warranty like previously stated above? I need to read all the fine print because I think its BS. How would they make any money?
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I would ask for a refund and wait until you get close to the end of your Nissan new car warranty to make a decision, much less pressure and you are in control. Its always negotiable anyway. I never buy extended warranties and have never needed them. Of all my friends that have bought them, maybe 10% have actually paid for themselves. Besides, why pay for a 5 or 7 year extended warranty when the first 3yr/36K is already covered with the purchase of a new car, and the powertrain is already covered for 5yr/60K.
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
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Mileage and terms of warranty should be dictated by your annual mileage. If you drive a lot (like I do) then you need to get high miles and less years. If you don't drive as much, then a short mile and high year is needed.
60/60 warranty is not very usefull in my opinion. As ShaginWagon pointed out, this warranty adds only 24,000 miles or two years to the standard warranty and nothing to the power train warranty. I would have opted for a 5 year 100,000 if you drive a lot, or a 7 year 75,000 if you keep it garaged most of the time.
60/60 warranty is not very usefull in my opinion. As ShaginWagon pointed out, this warranty adds only 24,000 miles or two years to the standard warranty and nothing to the power train warranty. I would have opted for a 5 year 100,000 if you drive a lot, or a 7 year 75,000 if you keep it garaged most of the time.
I calle the company that does issue the refunds, a company called signet. Now I may not be as jaded as some of the ppl. here but... this is my $.02
1. They will refund your $, but they do have some sonditions that a person who is a slacker will screw up on.. My fine print says that you need to:
1. file the refund within 30 days after the months of the contract is up. (this is probably where most ppl. would screw up)
2. you need to turn in a bunch of originals and a buch of reciepts. (something not a lot of ppl. would easily find 5 years down the road)
3. If you use any portion of the coverage (i.e. towing/roadside assistance) then a refund is not allowed.
I also think that most people will have the coverage pay for everything and anything... even a $200 piece, because they "have the coverage". If you have them do a $500 job and nothing else goes wrong, then the company made the rest. (in my case $1300)
I don't they try and really "cheat" you. All things are "legal" but have stipulations that most ppl. would not even keep up-to-date on.
This is how companies make their $$$.. just like insurance co. I used to work for a radio station and they would put up $100,000 is someone could roll a 7 two times in a row..
They charged like 2-3 thousand, but the odds where that they were willing to make the wager that big.
1. They will refund your $, but they do have some sonditions that a person who is a slacker will screw up on.. My fine print says that you need to:
1. file the refund within 30 days after the months of the contract is up. (this is probably where most ppl. would screw up)
2. you need to turn in a bunch of originals and a buch of reciepts. (something not a lot of ppl. would easily find 5 years down the road)
3. If you use any portion of the coverage (i.e. towing/roadside assistance) then a refund is not allowed.
I also think that most people will have the coverage pay for everything and anything... even a $200 piece, because they "have the coverage". If you have them do a $500 job and nothing else goes wrong, then the company made the rest. (in my case $1300)
I don't they try and really "cheat" you. All things are "legal" but have stipulations that most ppl. would not even keep up-to-date on.
This is how companies make their $$$.. just like insurance co. I used to work for a radio station and they would put up $100,000 is someone could roll a 7 two times in a row..
They charged like 2-3 thousand, but the odds where that they were willing to make the wager that big.
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