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I bought a 2020 Murano in May. We just turned 7600 miles. We have not gotten a maintenance light yet. When I called the dealership they said it should have been at 5000 miles, but they must have forgotten to turn on the maintenance light setting. What is really going on? I have never had a car where the maintenance light wasn’t set by the factory.
 

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I bought a 2020 Murano in May. We just turned 7600 miles. We have not gotten a maintenance light yet. When I called the dealership they said it should have been at 5000 miles, but they must have forgotten to turn on the maintenance light setting. What is really going on? I have never had a car where the maintenance light wasn’t set by the factory.
If you read the Owner's Manual and Maintenance Information booklet likely located in your glove compartment, you'll find instructions on how to change all the maintenance interval settings. Likewise, you'll also find the factory-recommended service guidelines.
 

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The default is supposed to be 7500 miles for both tires and oil. Both distances can be changed thru the dash menu, up to 15000 miles if I remember correctly.

Depending on your driving style, the normal would be 7.5K for oil and 7.5K for tire rotation. Myself, I have mine set to 5K and 5K. I'm hard on the accelerator, and tend to corner hard, scrubbing the front tires more then would be normal. By sticking to 5k tire changes, they wear pretty even for me. Oil is cheap, compared to an engine, enough said.

Change the settings to what you want after you've had your first service. Changing them now resets the reminder to 0 if I remember correctly.

Have a good day.
 

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I bought a 2020 Murano in May. We just turned 7600 miles. We have not gotten a maintenance light yet. When I called the dealership they said it should have been at 5000 miles, but they must have forgotten to turn on the maintenance light setting. What is really going on? I have never had a car where the maintenance light wasn’t set by the factory.
I just bought a 2020 last month. I remember scrolling thru some settings and found that I had to manually set a reminder. It is under the Maintenance section. See page 2-23 of the Owner's Manual.
 

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Not trying to be rude or a know it all but...as others have said, get a new car...read the manual. Not just parts and bits but the whole thing. Tons and tons of info and gems in there. If you didn't get a paper copy when you purchased. search and get a free one on line. Forums are good but manual is the real deal info from the mfr. Just sayin.
 

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I agree, cars as complex as ours really require studying the manual to better understand all the features and how they operate and their limitations, and the maintenance requirements. However, there is so much information in the stack of manuals that it can be cumbersome to find what you're looking for...

I like the PDF copies of the manuals, they're much easier to search using Acrobat's search function.

You can find the PDF copies here: Manuals and Guides | Nissan USA
 

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The default is supposed to be 7500 miles for both tires and oil. Both distances can be changed thru the dash menu, up to 15000 miles if I remember correctly.

Depending on your driving style, the normal would be 7.5K for oil and 7.5K for tire rotation. Myself, I have mine set to 5K and 5K. I'm hard on the accelerator, and tend to corner hard, scrubbing the front tires more then would be normal. By sticking to 5k tire changes, they wear pretty even for me. Oil is cheap, compared to an engine, enough said.

Change the settings to what you want after you've had your first service. Changing them now resets the reminder to 0 if I remember correctly.

Have a good day.
I am surprised you are suggesting 7,500 mils between oil changes, which in my part of the world would be 12,000km. Not sure what the US maintenance manual suggests, but up here oil changes (for an '18) are suggested every 8,000km (5,000miles). Tire rotation is as you suggest 7.5k miles (12,000km)
 

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I am surprised you are suggesting 7,500 mils between oil changes, which in my part of the world would be 12,000km. Not sure what the US maintenance manual suggests, but up here oil changes (for an '18) are suggested every 8,000km (5,000miles). Tire rotation is as you suggest 7.5k miles (12,000km)
When using a full syntactic oil, in a newer engine, you can easily go 10K between oil changes. Of course this depends on the time frame the miles are driven. Once a year, if not reaching the mileage. Heavy highway driving at cruising speed for long distances causes minimal breakdown of your oil, hence you'll be able to go to a higher mileage number before changing.

Another thing that can be looked at is the oil itself. If at 5K, the oil has maintained it's level, and still looks like dark honey, then you'll have no problem adding another 2.5K before checking again. Once oil has started to turn black is when it's reached the end of it's useful life. The color change is from the detergents in the oil being used up. The dirtier your engine is running, the quicker this will happen.

Hence the importance of preventive maintenance, starting by not buying cheap gas and regularly checking the air filter. Both causes of early engine failure. Bad gas causes premature Cat failure by slowly plugging them up, and a dirty air filter will cause a rich fuel mixture, which will cause premature piston seal failure due to piston rings and cylinder walls wearing from the excessive fuel mixture washing oil from said places.

I did my first oil change at 700 miles so that I knew what oil was actually in the engine. In 2018, while driving daily 100 + miles a day (95 of them on a highway.) for three months, I racked almost 15K before I was able to change the oil. Oil level had not changed the entire time (Checked weekly Saturday mornings.), and still was a heavily darkened honey color. Now that I have a heated garage and am only driving short distances daily (About 3 blocks back and forth.), I'm changing the oil at 5K with the tire rotations. My oil level is never down, and the oil coming out is a dark honey color.

All of this only matter if you're planning on being buried in your car. Otherwise, a new car can go 100K without ever opening the hood, except to check and change the oil. This is 95% of car owners, just start the car and drive.

Have a good day.
 

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Hence the importance of preventive maintenance, starting by not buying cheap gas and regularly checking the air filter. Both causes of early engine failure. Bad gas causes premature Cat failure by slowly plugging them up, and a dirty air filter will cause a rich fuel mixture, which will cause premature piston seal failure due to piston rings and cylinder walls wearing from the excessive fuel mixture washing oil from said places.
What is cheap gas?

For over half a century I have always used the least expensive regular gas in my cars and I have never had a fuel related problem or catalytic converter failure... Although I do tend to always go the the same low price gas station in town that I trust. I also do everything I can to avoid older gas stations when I need gas on a long trip...

For all my motorcycle and outdoor power equipment I use the same low price gas, and I always use Stabil. I never drain the gas when they aren't being used, I just keep them topped off to avoid condensation, and I have never had a fuel related or any other problem with the carburetors. I've even had gas preserved with Stabil over a year old the works fine with no perceivable performance issues... Although I do try to avoid letting it go that long when possible...
 

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This is the standard maintenance schedule located in the 2018 Nissan Murano Owner's Manual and Maintenance Information booklet. There's an old slang acronym in the IT field--RTFM.

52598
 
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What is cheap gas?
There's two types of cheap gas.

The first one is low cost chain gas stations that aren't part of an oil company, which typically have less detergents and cleaning agents, hence the cheaper price. Think Cumberland Farms GS's that are cropping up on every corner here in the NE. Like Walmart, they buy in bulk and dictate the bare federal minimums for add-ins from the refinery. If tracking MPG, it will be lower then using a top grade fuel. Intake system takes a hit from that type of fuel as far as staying clean.

Warehouse gas. You never know. They buy from the lowest bidder. Could be what they call remix, left over gas in tankers at the end of the day is collected and sold. There's more of it out there then you think. Once gas is removed from a commercial holding tank, the only thing put back in is fresh new gas from the refinery, not gas that's been sloshing around in a tanker all day.

Independent gas stations are hit or miss. Depends on who they get their gas from and how long their gas sits in their tanks. A quick turnover means fresh gas deliveries on a steady basis, and if he buys a top tier gas then you can expect the results you're seeing. Getting all your gas from the same place is always your best bet.

Stabil is the best thing that's happened to gas in a long time. I've been using it since I first heard about it. I never empty or run dry any of my gas motors anymore before storing. My chain saw sat for three years with 1/2 tank of fuel. Topped it off and with a burst of ether, it stated after two pulls.

As a side note, the OEM life of a Cat has gone down from 500K mile life to 250K life over the past 20 years. The internal honeycombs were getting finer and finer during that time. The current honeycomb openings are now about 1/3 the size from when first introduced, due to the need to be more efficient. Cat failure is due to the honeycomb plugging up and starting to burn hotter and hotter until it melts and crumbles. Lower grade gases have less detergents and larger carbon particles, causing the honeycomb to plug up prematurely. Most oxygen sensor error codes are caused by this condition.

Have a good day.
 
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I forgot to mention that "cheap gas" is also extremely harmful to the entire fuel system, in the long run.

You can expect to see a sooner then normal drop in MPG due to varnish building up in the fuel injectors as miles add up. This could cause either a lean issue or a rich issue, depending if the issue is plugged ports (Lean), or a sticky solenoid hanging open too long (Rich). A steady dose of a good fuel injector cleaner can alleviate this, but my experience is that most people who buy cheap gas can't be bothered to do this until the symptoms get severe enough to effect performance.

Varnish can also build up in the pump and fuel pressure regulator, effecting fuel pressure, performance and MPG.

Have a good day.
 

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There's two types of cheap gas.

The first one is low cost chain gas stations that aren't part of an oil company, which typically have less detergents and cleaning agents, hence the cheaper price. Think Cumberland Farms GS's that are cropping up on every corner here in the NE. Like Walmart, they buy in bulk and dictate the bare federal minimums for add-ins from the refinery. If tracking MPG, it will be lower then using a top grade fuel. Intake system takes a hit from that type of fuel as far as staying clean.

Warehouse gas. You never know. They buy from the lowest bidder. Could be what they call remix, left over gas in tankers at the end of the day is collected and sold. There's more of it out there then you think. Once gas is removed from a commercial holding tank, the only thing put back in is fresh new gas from the refinery, not gas that's been sloshing around in a tanker all day.

Independent gas stations are hit or miss. Depends on who they get their gas from and how long their gas sits in their tanks. A quick turnover means fresh gas deliveries on a steady basis, and if he buys a top tier gas then you can expect the results you're seeing. Getting all your gas from the same place is always your best bet.

Stabil is the best thing that's happened to gas in a long time. I've been using is since I first heard about it. I never empty or run dry any of my gas motors anymore be storing. My chain saw sat for three years with 1/2 tank of fuel. Topped it off and with a burst of ether, it stated after two pulls.

As a side note, the OEM life of a Cat has gone down from 500K mile life to 250K life over the past 20 years. The internal honeycombs were getting finer and finer during that time. The current honeycomb openings are now about 1/3 the size from when first introduced, due to the need to be more efficient. Cat failure is due to the honeycomb plugging up and starting to burn hotter and hotter until it melts and crumbles. Lower grade gases have less detergents and larger carbon particles, causing the honeycomb to plug up prematurely. Most oxygen sensor error codes are caused by this condition.

Have a good day.
Like your explanation of what is considered "top tier" fuel and others that meet minimum requirements.
 

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I bought a 2020 Murano in May. We just turned 7600 miles. We have not gotten a maintenance light yet. When I called the dealership they said it should have been at 5000 miles, but they must have forgotten to turn on the maintenance light setting. What is really going on? I have never had a car where the maintenance light wasn’t set by the factory.
I just found out about this too. After owning several cars that had an intelligent oil change reminder, I was surprised that the Murano doesn't. I was talking to the service manager and he said the Infiniti's don't have an intelligent system either. It's not really much of a problem for me, just found it interesting.
 
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