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got the paperwork...
what they wanted
$90 for cabin air filter
$129 for fuel injector service
$164 for coolant flush
$129 for oil cooler o ring
$175 for drive belts
$528 for lower ball joint
$180 for CVT change
$52 inspection fee (would have covered the heat shield cut off)

crazy :confused:


On the subject of ball joint -- is the deal trying to rip me off or is there some reason the ball joint and arm should be replaced as a unit?

Brian
 

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Monty2003 said:

On the subject of ball joint -- is the deal trying to rip me off or is there some reason the ball joint and arm should be replaced as a unit?

Brian
Sometimes it's the rubber bushings that wear out and not the ball joint. In that case, the whole arm needs replacing.
 

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BikerJohn said:


Sometimes it's the rubber bushings that wear out and not the ball joint. In that case, the whole arm needs replacing.
Thats right. The rubber bushing is fluid filled and eventually the rubber cracks--due to age-- and the fluid leaks out.

Not a must do now repair--maybe you can prolong it and wait till your bushing goes bad. Unless you are experiencing suspension sound and or steering issues with your ball joint.
 

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I got a bit to add to this thread just for clarification purposes. The part name references that have been made to this point have been incorrect in regards to the name of the part that the ball joint sits in. Within the Service Manual, the part the ball joint goes is pressed into is the TRANSVERSE LINK.

It's found on page 12 of the FSU.pdf document. It looks like a quick 4 steps or so to remove the transverse link. They even show the ball joint removal and check procedures.
 

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WrenchGremlin said:
I just replace both lower control arms - it wasn't very difficult and if your ball joint is worn out then you can bet that the rear rubber bushing is probably at end-of-life condition too. Mine were split pretty baddly - allowing the wheels to torque the arms forward under acceleration and rearward under breaking. It makes the handling of the car rather squirly when under hard acceleration.
Whoa whoa whoa! Can you describe what this feels like or the symptoms with regards to acceleration and such? Right now, under hard accleration, the Mo seems to want to jerk its steering wheel out of my hands... usually to the right. I had it in for service and told them about it, but had thought it was a different issue and they just did an alignment and told me the noise I was hearing from the front of the car was tire related. The tires are 6 month old Goodyear Forteras, so that didn't sound right.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Follow up question.

What exactly am I supposed to be noticing (physically) that indicates that this needs replaced?

Can this part be seen without removing the wheel?

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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I've been using this site for years now and just decided to become a registered member. Great, great information on this thread.

I was going to try to press out my ball joints, but I think the bushings are shot, so I am going to go with the complete lower control arm. Shop wants $1100 for both sides plus $1300 for new inner/outer tie rods. That's a bank breaker!
 

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That's exactly why it pays to do maintenance on your own. If you have the know-how, you can literally save yourself so much money over your lifetime you can buy a brand new car.
 

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Just wanted to add a 90 day review. No issues whatsoever. I've also put new tires on and other than having to get the tires balanced again the ride is very smooth...
 

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Follow up question.

What exactly am I supposed to be noticing (physically) that indicates that this needs replaced?

Can this part be seen without removing the wheel?

Thanks,
Jeff
This is way late but it will feel like the alignment is off...if you know the bad bearing feeling it is similar. It can easily be mistaken for a number of handling issues, mine got to the point where the steering wheel would shake back and forth so I took it in to get an alignment done. Once on the lift there was play at the bottom of the TRANSVERSE LINK versus the side to side play of a bearing.
 

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I've been using this site for years now and just decided to become a registered member. Great, great information on this thread.

I was going to try to press out my ball joints, but I think the bushings are shot, so I am going to go with the complete lower control arm. Shop wants $1100 for both sides plus $1300 for new inner/outer tie rods. That's a bank breaker!
buy the arms and do it yourself it is not too bad if you can get the vehicle up on some jack stands to work on. Once your there the tie rods are right there also. Heck...bring it to my house and I'll do it for $1000 out the door. :D

Then we can have a huge block party with the other $1300
 

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I just order the Front Left Lower control arm (Bushing leakage) and would be changing within few days. I'd try to take pictures if I can...

All I need to get Ball Joint Fork .. I've other tools...
 

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ok, my saga (unfortunately) continues.

I got the control arms on eBay for $110 each and install (w/o alignment) at Pep Boys was only $28x w/ 10% off coupon. So about $500 - even w/o a job that won't kill me.

However, that didn't fix my issue. it helped, certainly.

I dropped my car off at local dealer (Falore Nissan in Sunnyvale, CA) because i am getting slipping and stuff from the tranny.

Apparently I have a bad upper motor mount (~$400 before 15% online coupon - so $340 or so) for that. and my car seems like it's missing - timing is off or something. My MPG dropped from like 20 to 15 so something is going on. It's like a freakin' comedy of errors that is going to be the death of me but hopefully we're coming to the light @ the end of the so-called tunnel.

Jerry A @ Nissan also thinks my transmission does need replacing - so a new motor mount and whatever it is - spark plug / wire / or just timing will fix it.


That's my rant for now. The moral of the story is Lower Control Arms on eBay were way worth $220/ pr (shipped).
 

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I have an 03 Murano SL AWD, and am original owner, now at roughly 100,000 miles.

I have removed both lower control arms, complete. The ball joints weren't the best, but probably still serviceable. However, the rubber bushings were all just junk, which has been allowing the front wheels to torque back and forth, and ruined the front tires, as well as causing the steering wheel to rock back and forth.

I called the Nissan dealer to ask about authentic Nissan parts price for both lower control arm, and I mentioned the two Technical Service Bulletins, one from 2003, the other from 2007 about steering/control arm issues. The parts guy says "oh, yeah, real problems with those parts originally, especially the bushings, Nissan now has an upgraded improved part with much better bushings in the new improved lower control arms"

so, do I believe him and go for Nissan dealer lower control arms at much higher price $300 per arm) to supposedly get upgraded parts of supposedly much better quality, or do I go for eBay aftermarket complete lower control arms for $95.00 per control arm complete. $600 from the dealer, $190 off eBay.

does anyone know if there really is any quality difference?

Paul
 

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Hi Zeb

well, I am the type who buys a vehicle for cash, then runs it as long as possible. I still have the 1992 Jaguar 4.0 Sovereign I bought new in 92, now very high mileage, but still in gorgeous pristine condition and trouble free throughout its life.. Wish I could say the same for the 1992 Chev Astro AWD I bought the same year, even with comprehensive maintenance the Astro fell apart beyond economical repair in 2003 (AWD system failed three times, driveshafts, fuel injection system complete, on and on and on, when the AWD failed the third time I had the Astro towed to the junkyard), which is when and why I bought the new 2003 Murano over my cell phone from the side of the road while waiting for the tow truck.....

I can't see any reason I shouldn't be able to get 200,000 plus miles out of the Murano, as long as the CVT holds up, the exterior and interior are still pretty much like new, and I comprehensively detail the Murano every 6 months or so, and it gets a falrly high level of maintenance, short interval oil changes with full synthetic, etc..

long story short, I went in and *****ed at the dealer about the crap original bushings in the lower control arms and that they cost me a set of front tires for no good reason. As the dealer knows I am presently in the market for a new vehicle for my girlfriend, either a new Maxima(her choice) or a new 370Z(my choice), the dealer sold me the pair of Nissan Murano OEM control arms for $350 in total the pair. I am sure the dealer will try and get it back in the price of the new Maxima or 370Z, but these days dealing in cash for purchases gives a buyer a lot of leverage........

I put the pair of new lower control arms on tonight at home in my garage. Simple to do, not complicated at all, but I sure was glad I have an air compressor and air tools, particularly a high torque impact gun, as well as a torch and penetrating oil, those fasteners had corroded over our western Canadian winters and weren't very co-operative coming out.

Paul
 

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damn I wish it wasn't damn cold out and place to work.... I ended up taking to local shop for hub bearing on passengerside and lower balljoint for driverside..... yeah did cost me arm...... and leg...... for next time I'll be following this thread for ball joint replacement.
 

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I attempted to do the ball joint replacement last weekend. I had all the tools that jsmart had and nice weather to boot. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the friggin bolt off the lower control arm. The nut came off easy, but the bolt just laughed at my penetrating oil and 600ft-lb air impact wrench amd hammer chisel.

After about 1.5 hours of sweat and fustration, I decided to put everything back together. Afterwoods, I though that maybe a torch or heat would have helped, but I think I am giving up and calling a garage for quotes.

- Pissed off (biggun)
 
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