Nissan Murano Forum banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I just recently replaced the fuel level sending unit on my 06' Mo and took pics of the process to help anybody having the same issues. It's pretty straightforward and only took a couple hours. The Mo has two sending units in it on each side of the tank. I only had the main unit go bad, but I cleaned the second unit while I was at it.

SENDER UNIT-FUEL GAUGE - Murano (Z50) 2003+ :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
This is the replacement unit I used, $81

I also bought two new seals from my local Nissan dealer which were $13 each.

So for about $110 and a couple hours I did what my mechanic quoted at approximately $400!

When you lift up the rear seat this is the plate covering the unit
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Disconnect these lines before removing the fuel tank lock ring. The line on the left is a fuel line, and unless you bleed the lines prior to removal you will have some fuel spray.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
After the lines are disconnected you'll have to use a Fuel Tank Lock Wrench to remove those lock rings, which are a pain! Forum member KERSHAW was nice enough to let me borrow the one he fabricated, known as "The Beast". You can buy these wrenches but they're pretty expensive.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
After you get the lock rings off, you'll be able to pull out the Fuel Pump assembly. The Sending Unit is attached to the side of the pump. This is for the main sending unit only, which is located on the driver side of the Mo. If your tank isn't completely empty make sure you have some towels handy because there will be fuel running out of the pump when you pull it out.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The sending unit is easily replaced, just make sure all the connections are made before reassembly. Mine was in need of some TLC. KERSHAW suggested that cleaning the sender would probably fix any problems with the unit. Since I had already purchased a new one I went ahead and replaced it. I cleaned the second unit good after replacing the first one.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This is what the passenger side fuel sending unit assembly looks like. It's much easier to deal with than the main assembly.

Reassembly is just the opposite of disassembly. I had to fight with the fuel tank lock rings when putting them back on, but I guess that's to be expected if you want a good seal.

So far the fuel gauge seems to be working as it should, hopefully it continues to do so!!

Oh, and don't smoke while playing in the fuel tank! :D
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,664 Posts
:29: Excellent! Thanks for the write-up and photos!

And kudos to KERSHAW for being a stand-up guy and sharing his homemade tool. :7: Way to go!

-njjoe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
:29: And kudos to KERSHAW for being a stand-up guy and sharing his homemade tool. :7: Way to go!

-njjoe
Yeah KERSHAW was on point! Those rings were a pain WITH the wrench, so I can only imagine what it would be like without them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Let me get this straight.... under the back seat, there is an access panel allowing you to get to the fuel pump in the top of the fuel tank, so you do NOT have to drop the fuel tank to do this repair? I know some cars had this, but I didn't think anyone did this anymore. This is on a 2006 Murano?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I had the P0463 error code also and last weekend cleaned the sensors myself. The SES light went off for 2 days and just now came back. The passenger side unit was very easy to get into and close back up. The driver side was absolutely horrible to get back into place. I had to bend the lock ring to get it back on.

I really would rather not open the driver side one up again. My question is how did you know it was the main unit only that went bad? I cleaned the main unit sensor really really good, but I might not have cleaned the passenger side sensor as good so im hoping it is that side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Well, in my case, I did NOT know which sending unit it was.
Ultimately, a dealership replaced BOTH sending units under warranty, and that fixed the problem. There was no issue with the wiring harness or anything else (which the first repair place I took it to tried to tell me, so I got rid of them).

And just for the record, when I got the car back from the dealership the first time, the whole inside of the car smelled of gas. The smell didn't go away after several days, and the SES light came on again. They took it back, claimed there was nothing wrong, and said that the SES light may have come on from an "old code". It's amazing how these guys talk to customers like they are idiots. I cleared the codes myself with a scanner before I took it in, and an "old code" wouldn't just pop up after one day of driving unless there was another failure.

Anyway, they agreed to look at it again. I got it back the second time, and the smell was gone, and there have been no SES codes ever since. Most likely, they screwed it up the first time, didn't want to admit it, so they fixed it the second time without telling me. (From the smell, I'd say they didn't put the fuel locking ring and gasket back in correctly, or maybe never actually changed one of the sensors the first time... I'll never know).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,664 Posts
I had the P0463 error code also and last weekend cleaned the sensors myself. The SES light went off for 2 days and just now came back. The passenger side unit was very easy to get into and close back up. The driver side was absolutely horrible to get back into place. I had to bend the lock ring to get it back on.

I really would rather not open the driver side one up again. My question is how did you know it was the main unit only that went bad? I cleaned the main unit sensor really really good, but I might not have cleaned the passenger side sensor as good so im hoping it is that side.
Pacinko-

I checked the Service Manual, but unfortunately it does not differentiate between the right and left fuel pumps with regards to the 0460-0463 error codes. That is a glaring omission, but it is what it is. Sorry.

-njjoe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Bummer....I am going to have to make sure it hasnt loosened or opened up when I get home tonight because I have had a gas odor in the car since the weekend.

Sounds like I might have open it up again this weekend and see if I can clean them better. If that doesn't work, I will have to buy another sensor unit I guess. I am assuming it is probably the main unit on the fuel pump, just my luck....The hammer and chisel method on that main lock ring is incredibly difficult and frustrating, even with me and another guy together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,664 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,664 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
If you want to work your butt off...

I just repaired my sensors as well. It is VERY difficult if you don't have the correct tools. But anyway I bought CH-48482 (for GM) which is much cheaper($18) than J 46211 ($100) and managed to hammer it to fit murano lock ring. (CH 48482 is about 0.5 cm smaller from tooth to tooth).

Working on the passenger side is MUCH easier so I recommend that you start from it. If the problem goes away after the passenger side is done you are in good luck.

In my case I did NOT replace either sensor (potentiometer) because as I an electric engineering major I believe it should almost never fail given the working condition and current applied on it. The contact track does need to be thoroughly cleaned. Once done it should be as good as a new one.

The design of murano fuel sensors is a series of two sensors so if the fuel level is lower on side and high on the other as a result of turning while driving, the combined resistance is compensated and should be relatively stable, reflecting the average fuel level of both sides of the tank. After cleaning both sensors you may want to use a multimeter to test the series resistance to make sure connection and sensors are both in working order.


A caveat before you snap the floater piece back to the sensor: you may want to bent the two contacting points slightly outward to make sure they apply some pressure on the potentiometer track. A problem I encountered was that when the assembly was outside the tank the resistance of the sensor loop was normal (around 89 ohms depending on how much fuel you have in the tank). But once I put the assembly back the loop became open. Finally I found as the contacting points on the floater swing back to the middle of the track the pressure was too small to make a contact and the loop is discounted.


Another warning is that putting the lock ring back on the driver side is EXTREMELY difficult because:
1. The assembly has springs that push the bottom of the tank so you have to offset the pressure in order to press the ring as low as possible to the floor. I think the new seal is barely adding much additional pressure because it is relatively thinner than the displacement of the spring.
2. In order to lock the ring you will have to simultaneously push ALL five points on the ring and turn the wrench. So you'd have to apply downward pressure and turning at the same time.

If you struggle with the ring, a way to temporary close it is to use five quarters (yes I mean coins) to lock the assembly without the ring. It is a lot easier but make sure you don't accidentally drop some of them into the tank adding to the cost of repair :)

I also made the work slightly easier by using dremel tools to grind a small ramp on each of the 5 openings on the ring where sliding begins. You may also use some small metal inserts to lock the ring down (one at a time) to the hooks before you start turning the wrench. This allows you to focus on turning rather than pushing and turn.


Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,080 Posts
Is this a common issue with the Murano? I know Nissans had many problems with the sending unit on Titans since both of mine have had the unit replaced twice under TSBs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Great tips!

I just cleaned both my sensors last week. I found using a Magic Eraser I was able to clean each sensor contacts very quickly and without a mess or other chemicals.

I just used the hammer and big screwdriver method to open and close the ring. HOWEVER, I did use channel locks to bend each hook over the ring to make it easier to close, then bent them into place back after I used the hammer and screwdriver to lock the ring. Much cheaper, and easier! :)

I cleared my SES code, but after I filled the tank, the guage was fine, but around 3/4 to 1/2 a tank the guage stays at E. My problem was not solved.

I was ready to order new sensors when I saw your post today luboxing, great write-up, I am sure it will help many others with this problem and keep them from spending money on a good sensor.

Can you be more specific on increasing the pressure on the contacts, I believe that would be my problem, also was it both sensors that had poor pressure on the contacts?

Thanks!


I just repaired my sensors as well. It is VERY difficult if you don't have the correct tools. But anyway I bought CH-48482 (for GM) which is much cheaper($18) than J 46211 ($100) and managed to hammer it to fit murano lock ring. (CH 48482 is about 0.5 cm smaller from tooth to tooth).

Working on the passenger side is MUCH easier so I recommend that you start from it. If the problem goes away after the passenger side is done you are in good luck.

In my case I did NOT replace either sensor (potentiometer) because as I an electric engineering major I believe it should almost never fail given the working condition and current applied on it. The contact track does need to be thoroughly cleaned. Once done it should be as good as a new one.

The design of murano fuel sensors is a series of two sensors so if the fuel level is lower on side and high on the other as a result of turning while driving, the combined resistance is compensated and should be relatively stable, reflecting the average fuel level of both sides of the tank. After cleaning both sensors you may want to use a multimeter to test the series resistance to make sure connection and sensors are both in working order.


A caveat before you snap the floater piece back to the sensor: you may want to bent the two contacting points slightly outward to make sure they apply some pressure on the potentiometer track. A problem I encountered was that when the assembly was outside the tank the resistance of the sensor loop was normal (around 89 ohms depending on how much fuel you have in the tank). But once I put the assembly back the loop became open. Finally I found as the contacting points on the floater swing back to the middle of the track the pressure was too small to make a contact and the loop is discounted.


Another warning is that putting the lock ring back on the driver side is EXTREMELY difficult because:
1. The assembly has springs that push the bottom of the tank so you have to offset the pressure in order to press the ring as low as possible to the floor. I think the new seal is barely adding much additional pressure because it is relatively thinner than the displacement of the spring.
2. In order to lock the ring you will have to simultaneously push ALL five points on the ring and turn the wrench. So you'd have to apply downward pressure and turning at the same time.

If you struggle with the ring, a way to temporary close it is to use five quarters (yes I mean coins) to lock the assembly without the ring. It is a lot easier but make sure you don't accidentally drop some of them into the tank adding to the cost of repair :)

I also made the work slightly easier by using dremel tools to grind a small ramp on each of the 5 openings on the ring where sliding begins. You may also use some small metal inserts to lock the ring down (one at a time) to the hooks before you start turning the wrench. This allows you to focus on turning rather than pushing and turn.


Good luck!
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top