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Pass your finger along the crack with some pressure, if its wet, change it. Better get a good one before installing even if its a lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
That's not by design. Does the axle have a lifetime warranty? If so, your call on whether to return now or not. That crack will likely turn in to a leak at some point, but you may end up getting rid of the car by then...
Yes it has a lifetime warranty. It’s already a hole there, though doesn’t seem there’s grease inside, but I’ll return it.
 

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Yes it has a lifetime warranty. It’s already a hole there, though doesn’t seem there’s grease inside, but I’ll return it.
That's what I would do. You don't need the annoyance of feeling compelled to regularly check the boot on your "new" axle to see if it's started leaking yet.
 

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Yes, they’re lifetime warranty. I replaced mine a couple of times before when I was down there, just because. Return this one as a warranty swap, that’s a defective boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If you have an AWD, you separate the cv joint at the mid support without removing the mid support. NO need to change the axle seal if its not leaking since you are not removing the inner shaft from the TC.

FWD on the other hand requires to remove the entire inner shaft along with the cv axle. FSM suggest to change the axle seal. Oem cost about 10 bucks. You will need a quart or so of CVT NS2 fluid. Take care in inserting the new axle to avoid damaging the new or old axle seal. Using a hanger wire to hang the axle mid way could help you get it in aligned/level without straining or going in an angle. Good luck.
So I removed the axle today and ran into these problems. Please advise:
1. I accidentally torn this part of the seal (or whatever it is) a bit. Would it be fine to just leave it like that and put the new axle in?

51632


2. I actually could not put the new axle in. The metal ring that prevents the axle from sliding off also makes it so difficult to pusha new one in. Any idea/trick how to insert the new axle?
 

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The trick in removing and installing the axle is by turning it little by little until you find the sweet spot that will sorta center that circular clip making the shaft go in/out so much easier. When installing a new shaft, tap the other end of the shaft with mallet or wood and hammer. You have to make sure you are also going in straight /level and not in angle. And when removing the old one, insert a pry bar at the bottom area between that center support and the cv housing taking care not to damage that seal/dust shield like you did. You will need to replace that seal otherwise water and other stuff will find its way inside and cause issues later on. You can maybe mickey mouse it with several layers of rtv? But you have to clean and dry everything first. Wait a day to fully cure before installing the shaft. Hard to say if you just broke the dust shield or the rubber seal too..If the rubber seal is intact just bend back the dust shield and apply some rtv.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you! I’ll try the trick to see if the axle goes in.
I think just the dust shield was torn (that thin layer wrapping around). Do you suggest me to tear off the whole shield to apply RTV, or just the already torn part?
 

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Thank you! I’ll try the trick to see if the axle goes in.
I think just the dust shield was torn (that thin layer wrapping around). Do you suggest me to tear off the whole shield to apply RTV, or just the already torn part?
I don't think that dust shield itself is serviceable. You can just try to glue the torn part together with RTV, but it's really not that big of a deal. Just pack that joint with plenty of grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I don't think that dust shield itself is serviceable. You can just try to glue the torn part together with RTV, but it's really not that big of a deal. Just pack that joint with plenty of grease.
Oh I did not know I would need to add grease into the joint. Thank you! What type of grease do you recommend?
 

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Oh I did not know I would need to add grease into the joint. Thank you! What type of grease do you recommend?
Just use a good synthetic axle grease. "Pack" is probably too strong a word in this case. Normally, you would just apply a little grease to the axle splines before installing it, but since you have that tear in the seal I'd add a liberal amount to help keep moisture and contaminants out. You don't want to fill the joint up with grease completely or it'll just shoot back out when you jam the axle in and make a big mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So I think I messed up again. I could not insert the new axle in even after playing with the turning little by little, so I decided to take the C ring out so that I could reduce its diameter a bit using a plier. Now I have a really hard time putting it back.
So:
1. Is there a tool out there to make this work easier, both putting the C ring back in and inserting the new axle to the joint?
2. Or is it okay to skip the C ring? Would it likely lead to a risk of the axle gradually sliding off the joint?
 

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That circular clip is never meant to come off ever. Its your only lock that holds the shaft together with the inner shaft. I don't even know if its even possible to put it back without adding additional thickness. You can try but it will be even harder to force in the cv axle. Its not a part that is replaceable per nissan. You will need to get a used one from another donor murano..pick a part place. Or $223 online.

The trick I mentioned works every time. But you need to hammer it in from the other end - level and straight going in. Hang the mid part of the cv axle to help you keep it straight and the weight. Insert the other end into the hub before hammering it also helps. But make sure its straight and no angle going in.
 

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So I think I messed up again. I could not insert the new axle in even after playing with the turning little by little, so I decided to take the C ring out so that I could reduce its diameter a bit using a plier. Now I have a really hard time putting it back.
So:
1. Is there a tool out there to make this work easier, both putting the C ring back in and inserting the new axle to the joint?
2. Or is it okay to skip the C ring? Would it likely lead to a risk of the axle gradually sliding off the joint?
You do need the clip or otherwise the axle will slide in and out as the suspension geometry changes while you drive the car, which is potentially dangerous (obviously). They do make retaining ring pliers with special flat tips for getting circlips off, but just grease the notch where it goes and grip the clip with long nose pliers and push it on. You'll get it eventually, but it will likely spread the clip just a little making the axle tougher to get on.

Also, check the splines on the axle end as sometimes there's one spline that's wider than the others and you're supposed to align the splines accordingly when installing. Grease the circlip and try to center it on the axle. Use the axle itself like a slide hammer and jam it in there making sure that you're driving it straight in and not at a slight angle. After a couple of trys, rotate the inboard axle 90 degrees and try again (the circlip is on the inboard joint). You'll eventually get it.

EDITED:
Here's one example of the circlip pliers: Knipex Retaining Ring Pliers
 

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That circular clip is never meant to come off ever. Its your only lock that holds the shaft together with the inner shaft. I don't even know if its even possible to put it back without adding additional thickness. You can try but it will be even harder to force in the cv axle. Its not a part that is replaceable per nissan. You will need to get a used one from another donor murano..pick a part place. Or $223 online.
According to the service manual if I read it correctly, the C-clip is supposed to be replace if the parts are disassembled (see attached picture, item #2), so I would think you can buy a new clip if the old one is damaged during the removal. I don't know what tools you need to put it on.
2020-05-25_105543.jpg
 

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According to the service manual if I read it correctly, the C-clip is supposed to be replace if the parts are disassembled (see attached picture, item #2), so I would think you can buy a new clip if the old one is damaged during the removal. I don't know what tools you need to put it on. View attachment 51637
If you look at a Nissan dealer site, you’ll find that it’s not offered on their diagrams of parts sold. You need to get the entire midsection to replace the clip.
 

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If you look at a Nissan dealer site, you’ll find that it’s not offered on their diagrams of parts sold. You need to get the entire midsection to replace the clip.
I just looked at the Nissan Parts site (parts.nissanusa.com). For some reason, they don't have the correct diagram for the right (passenger) side parts. On the left side, all snap rings are listed with part numbers.
 
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