Nissan Murano Forum banner

41 - 60 of 88 Posts

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
Oh that’s very smart to use the jack, thank you! Do you mean using the brake rotor as the jack point?

Also, is there a good way to hammer from the outer end? I earlier tried to hammer after putting the old axle nut and tightening it a bit, but I ended up damaging the axle thread and making the nut stuck there because of too much hammering. But luckily I was still able to take it out and the thread was not damaged too much; the new nut can still go all the way in and out. But I definitely want to avoid this next time.
If something is in the way then don't be afraid to move it or remove it to make room. The strut assembly is secured with 3 bolts up top. Remove 2 of those bolts and loosen 1 and you can rotate the strut to get extra space. Same with the steering knuckle. Rotate it out of the way, or if you feel the need, take it off the control arm and place it on a bucket or something next to it out of the way.

I'm not a fan of hammering on the end of the axle to get it in precisely because of what happened to you (potential to damage threads). My method of choice is to use the axle itself like a slide hammer and forcefully (and repeatedly) shove it with force until it goes in. If it doesn't go in after a couple of tries then rotate the inboard shaft and try again. Rinse and repeat until you're successful. See the video linked below to see what I mean (go to the 5:00 minute mark). Ample grease on the splines will help and try to center the circlip on the inboard shaft so that it's not protruding more on any one side than another.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
If something is in the way then don't be afraid to move it or remove it to make room. The strut assembly is secured with 3 bolts up top. Remove 2 of those bolts and loosen 1 and you can rotate the strut to get extra space. Same with the steering knuckle. Rotate it out of the way, or if you feel the need, take it off the control arm and place it on a bucket or something next to it out of the way.

I'm not a fan of hammering on the end of the axle to get it in precisely because of what happened to you (potential to damage threads). My method of choice is to use the axle itself like a slide hammer and forcefully (and repeatedly) shove it with force until it goes in. If it doesn't go in after a couple of tries then rotate the inboard shaft and try again. Rinse and repeat until you're successful. See the video linked below to see what I mean (go to the 5:00 minute mark). Ample grease on the splines will help and try to center the circlip on the inboard shaft so that it's not protruding more on any one side than another.

Awesome. Thank you so much! I should have asked you all this question sooner.

Also, if the circular clip was widened a bit thanks to the pliers, how can I make it smaller while it’s on the inboard shaft, or is ordering a new clip the only solution? The current one might still work just fine though. I’ll try again tomorrow and report the result here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
If something is in the way then don't be afraid to move it or remove it to make room. The strut assembly is secured with 3 bolts up top. Remove 2 of those bolts and loosen 1 and you can rotate the strut to get extra space. Same with the steering knuckle. Rotate it out of the way, or if you feel the need, take it off the control arm and place it on a bucket or something next to it out of the way.

I'm not a fan of hammering on the end of the axle to get it in precisely because of what happened to you (potential to damage threads). My method of choice is to use the axle itself like a slide hammer and forcefully (and repeatedly) shove it with force until it goes in. If it doesn't go in after a couple of tries then rotate the inboard shaft and try again. Rinse and repeat until you're successful. See the video linked below to see what I mean (go to the 5:00 minute mark). Ample grease on the splines will help and try to center the circlip on the inboard shaft so that it's not protruding more on any one side than another.

So this trick works like a charm. Today I was able to push the axle in right after the first 180 rotation.

BUT, problem #100, for some reason the axle could not slide all the way in. I pushed as hard as I could, but there’s probably something there that blocks that yellow trench. It seemed to be secured there though, as I could not take it out by hands either.
51715


Below are the trench of the new axle and the original one. I can just guess the inboard joint couldn’t pass that thing inside the trench (red arrow), but the new axle’s seems to be even thinner than the original’s.
51716

51717


As you can see, I damaged that area of the original axle when I was trying to separate it from the joint. Not sure if that also distorted the connecting part on the joint that now could not let the new axle’s trench to slide in.
Below is the photo of the inboard joint; other than the torn dust shield, I could not see if any other part is damaged.
51718
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
So this trick works like a charm. Today I was able to push the axle in right after the first 180 rotation.

BUT, problem #100, for some reason the axle could not slide all the way in. I pushed as hard as I could, but there’s probably something there that blocks that yellow trench. It seemed to be secured there though, as I could not take it out by hands either.

Below are the trench of the new axle and the original one. I can just guess the inboard joint couldn’t pass that thing inside the trench (red arrow), but the new axle’s seems to be even thinner than the original’s.

As you can see, I damaged that area of the original axle when I was trying to separate it from the joint. Not sure if that also distorted the connecting part on the joint that now could not let the new axle’s trench to slide in.
Below is the photo of the inboard joint; other than the torn dust shield, I could not see if any other part is damaged.
There is no problem. If you can't pull the axle out with your bare hands then the circlip is seated and the axle is where it needs to be. Remember, that dust shield that you damaged is part of the carrier bearing assembly and doesn't spin with the axle so it can't touch the axle or friction would wear it away. You're done. Put it back together and have a couple of beers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
There is no problem. If you can't pull the axle out with your bare hands then the circlip is seated and the axle is where it needs to be. Remember, that dust shield that you damaged is part of the carrier bearing assembly and doesn't spin with the axle so it can't touch the axle or friction would wear it away. You're done. Put it back together and have a couple of beers.
But looking at the picture of the original one, don’t you agree that the gap wasn’t there? Also, looking at that damaged area of the original axle, it is not as dirty as the other parts that do not snap into the joint, so I think it was somewhat covered inside the joint, rather than being completely exposed like the new one currently.

51719
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
But looking at the picture of the original one, don’t you agree that the gap wasn’t there? Also, looking at that damaged area of the original axle, it is not as dirty as the other parts that do not snap into the joint, so I think it was somewhat covered inside the joint, rather than being completely exposed like the new one currently.
You're not using an original (i.e. OEM) axle so don't expect the same fit and finish. Nevertheless, if you're not sure it's all the way in then continue the process of push/rotate/push.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I put everything back today after trying to push the axle further in without success. A few more issues that I would like to hear some advice:

1. The fastener of the tie rod was probably loosen inside as the bolt now spins with the nut. I still was able to insert the cotter pin in though. Do I need to replace the tie rod? And if yes, is it safe to drive the car until the new one comes?
51724


2. The right wheel now produces squeaky noises. I have only tried at low speed (10-15 mph). Could the axle cause squeaky noises in any way? Or maybe it’s due to the brake, since while putting everything back, one brake pad dropped and I had to open the caliper to put it back; I also use brake parts cleaner to wipe the rotor a bit as some parts were rusty.

3.While the car stops, the steering wheel rotates a bit when I shift from N to R and to D. That didn’t happen in the past as far as I can remember, so not sure if it’s due to new axle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,703 Posts
You should have greased up the outer splines that goes into the hub to eliminate noise. 1st gen is known to get it.

Your tie rod end boot looks almost ready to crack open. You will need an alignment after replacement. And you can drive it till then.
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
I put everything back today after trying to push the axle further in without success. A few more issues that I would like to hear some advice:

1. The fastener of the tie rod was probably loosen inside as the bolt now spins with the nut. I still was able to insert the cotter pin in though. Do I need to replace the tie rod? And if yes, is it safe to drive the car until the new one comes?
View attachment 51724

2. The right wheel now produces squeaky noises. I have only tried at low speed (10-15 mph). Could the axle cause squeaky noises in any way? Or maybe it’s due to the brake, since while putting everything back, one brake pad dropped and I had to open the caliper to put it back; I also use brake parts cleaner to wipe the rotor a bit as some parts were rusty.

3.While the car stops, the steering wheel rotates a bit when I shift from N to R and to D. That didn’t happen in the past as far as I can remember, so not sure if it’s due to new axle.
My guess is the squeaking and weird steering behavior are because the nut on the tie rod end is likely way too loose. In the future, if any kind of ball joint assembly spins while you're trying to tighten the fastener then wedge a pry bar in between to put pressure on the ball joint and that should allow you to tighten it. And yes, that tie rod needs to be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
I’ll replace it and do the alignment as soon as I can. But in the meantime, could that squeaking noises and loosen tie rod nut lead to any risk or damage? Is it important to grease the outer splines before I do any serious driving?
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
I’ll replace it and do the alignment as soon as I can. But in the meantime, could that squeaking noises and loosen tie rod nut lead to any risk or damage? Is it important to grease the outer splines before I do any serious driving?
I would personally tighten up the tie rod end. The cotter pin is a fail-safe device and not intended to secure the tie rod by itself. While you're in there you can lubricate the axle splines, but I don't think that is causing the noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
The reason you couldn't tighten the tie rod nut is probably some grease/oil got onto the tapered mating surfaces. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner and you should be able to tighten the nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Finally found the culprit of the squealing noise. I accidentally bent the lower metal sheet on the knuckle outwards a bit while replacing the axle, and it scratched the brake rotor when the rotor spins. Reshaped it and the noise went away.
And I’ll try tighten the tie rod later or probably replace it soon. But for now, the car runs great, after weeks sitting on the jack stands.
Thank you all so much for all the advice. This is such a great forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
The passenger side axle was replaced successfully last time, thanks to the huge helps from you all here.

Then I have noticed that the driver side axle will needed to be replaced as well since it now also has has a crack and grease has been leaked out of the boot.

So this time, I should take the axle out at the red cirled point, correct? Sounds like it’s recommended to replace the seal as well, but honestly I would like to avoid that if possible, mostly because the hassle of having a few more special tools to remove and install the seal.

52490
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
The passenger side axle was replaced successfully last time, thanks to the huge helps from you all here.

Then I have noticed that the driver side axle will needed to be replaced as well since it now also has has a crack and grease has been leaked out of the boot.

So this time, I should take the axle out at the red cirled point, correct? Sounds like it’s recommended to replace the seal as well, but honestly I would like to avoid that if possible, mostly because the hassle of having a few more special tools to remove and install the seal.
Yes, the LH axle plugs right into the CVT. Just go underneath with a pry bar and pop it out. If the seal isn't leaking you don't need to replace it, but just be careful during removal and installation so as not to damage the seal with the splines of the axle--pull the old axle straight out and carefully put the new axle straight in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Yes, the LH axle plugs right into the CVT. Just go underneath with a pry bar and pop it out. If the seal isn't leaking you don't need to replace it, but just be careful during removal and installation so as not to damage the seal with the splines of the axle--pull the old axle straight out and carefully put the new axle straight in.
Thank you! I'll loan some tools from AutoZone to get this job done properly. Hopefully it will be quick and smooth this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Yes, the LH axle plugs right into the CVT. Just go underneath with a pry bar and pop it out. If the seal isn't leaking you don't need to replace it, but just be careful during removal and installation so as not to damage the seal with the splines of the axle--pull the old axle straight out and carefully put the new axle straight in.
So I pry the axle out today, and while it doesn’t seem like there is any damage to the seal, it looks like fluid has been leaking from there down to the bottom, though I am not so sure about it (1st picture).
One thing is that I have seen fluid in the bottom of the transmission and transfer case for quite some time, and it seems to come from both driver and passenger sides (see 2nd picture, 2 arrows where the fluid forms a drop). So:
1. Is it worth to replace to seals on both sides? The leak apparently not very bad, since I check fluid level often and it goes down quite slowly. Can I just from time to time add more fluid to make up for the leak?
2. Can replacing passenger side seal a DYI job? (I know doing the driver side one is doable).
3. Any idea why the colors of the 2 drops are different?
52587

52588
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
1. Is it worth to replace to seals on both sides? The leak apparently not very bad, since I check fluid level often and it goes down quite slowly. Can I just from time to time add more fluid to make up for the leak?
It's not clear that the LH axle seal is the major source of the CVT leak. There's wet fluid well above and forward of that seal, which suggests the leak may be coming from higher up--it could be a cooler line or something else on the top/front of the transmission that's leaking and the fluid is flowing down to the area in your picture. You may just want to replace the seal anyway since it's inexpensive and straight-forward to replace, but I would suggest cleaning up that whole area really well, driving the car for short periods, and try to pinpointnexactly where fluid is leaking from.

For CVT leaks, as long as the fluid level stays withing specifications you can just keep adding fluid as necessary if you don't mind tolerating the leak. If it gets really bad then you may be forced to deal with the underlying problem.

2. Can replacing passenger side seal a DYI job? (I know doing the driver side one is doable).
It's a doable DIY job. You may have to drop the exhaust front tube to free up enough space to get tools in there though.

3. Any idea why the colors of the 2 drops are different?
The fluid closer to the bottom of the pic looks pretty new. Did you repace the transfer case fluid recently? Scoop up a drop on your finger and smell the fluid. CVT fluid and gear oil have very different odors and you should be able to tell right away. If it's gear oil, I would suggest draining the transfer case and measuring the amount of fluid that comes out as this will tell you how much leaked out and give you an idea of how bad the leak is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
It's not clear that the LH axle seal is the major source of the CVT leak. There's wet fluid well above and forward of that seal, which suggests the leak may be coming from higher up
Can you help pointing out the wet fuild above and forward of the seal? The wet area above (top left corner of the 1st picture) is actually grease from the cv axle boot, which I why I am replacing it now.
The fluid closer to the bottom of the pic looks pretty new. Did you repace the transfer case fluid recently?
I actually replaced both the CVT fluid and the transfer case oil at the same time around 6 months ago. I also tried cleaning it out to trace the leak ealier but did not find anything. Will try that again.
 

·
Registered
2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
Can you help pointing out the wet fuild above and forward of the seal? The wet area above (top left corner of the 1st picture) is actually grease from the cv axle boot, which I why I am replacing it now
O.K. That's what I was talking about. The best thing to do is make sure fluid levels are normal and then clean up the area really well and try to find the source of the leak. You can also buy UV dyes for this purpose that you just dump into the crankcase, which can be helpful.
 
41 - 60 of 88 Posts
Top