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Discussion Starter #62
I will try with the UV dye then. To detect leak from the transmission, can I add the dye thru the CVT dipstick funnel?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I have spent almost 3 hours on inserting the seal without any success. I did carefully and slowly, but for some reason, there just doesn’t seem to be a sweet spot for it to go in. The seal and the case seems to be still in good shape. I guess I must have missed something here.
What I have tried:
1. Put 2 fingers on 3 and 9 o’clock positions, and run them along the edge of the seal.
2. Use a 36mm deep socket, which fits right into the inner ring of the seal, and hammered around the other end of the socket.
3. Put a 1/2 extension to the 36mm socket, and hammer on the extension’s end.
 

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You can’t start it that way. You have to first position it with your fingers and then use a hammer to lightly tap one end in and slowly work your way around it. Once you get it to ride in, you can then use the proper size socket to drive it all the way in. I use a pvc pipe/fitting. Go slow and be patient and be careful not to damage it. You hammer only on the outer race. Not the inner ring as you have done. You’ll damage it.
 

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I have spent almost 3 hours on inserting the seal without any success. I did carefully and slowly, but for some reason, there just doesn’t seem to be a sweet spot for it to go in. The seal and the case seems to be still in good shape. I guess I must have missed something here.
What I have tried:
1. Put 2 fingers on 3 and 9 o’clock positions, and run them along the edge of the seal.
2. Use a 36mm deep socket, which fits right into the inner ring of the seal, and hammered around the other end of the socket.
3. Put a 1/2 extension to the 36mm socket, and hammer on the extension’s end.
Go to Harbor Freight (or auto parts store) and pick up a seal driver kit like this one. You want to use a driver that is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the seal so you don't drive it in too deep. Just set the seal with your fingers and then tap it in with a hammer until the seal is flush with the transmission case.
 

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...and also lubricate the outer edge of the seal with CVT fluid (if you didn't already)--a little lubrication makes everything go in easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
You have to first position it with your fingers and then use a hammer to lightly tap one end in and slowly work your way around it.
Would it work if I use an extension bar and tap it on one end? Couldn’t get the hammer to tap to the seal directly.
Go to Harbor Freight (or auto parts store) and pick up a seal driver kit like this one.
Can this set work before the seal rides on the case? I find it most difficult to get the whole rim of the seal in.
 

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Can this set work before the seal rides on the case? I find it most difficult to get the whole rim of the seal in.
Which seal did you buy? It could actually be an aftermarket parts quality issue in that the outer diameter of the seal is out of specification.
 

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You need to get the seal started all the way around, as even as you can, before you can use any of the tools that fit the outer race to drive it in. Otherwise, you will damage the seal or make it go one side in while the other side only partially in. I don’t see how holding the seal, the extension and the hammer would work unless you have a 3rd hand. I use a short handle hammer.
 

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You should be able to at least get the seal (esp. if OEM) started by hand and then use whatever tool(s) you have available. A seal driver works. I've also seen people use a small hammer and tap it in by working their way around the seal.
 

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Assuming you have the correct seal and that the mating hole is completely clean and free of any hard particles and dings/peenings in and around the opening that might prevent the seal from slipping in easily... If you have a bar of normal soap (or bar of wax), run it along the entire outside top and CVT-side edge of the seal, and smear some around the opening edge of its mating hole. Use a pair of gloves so you can get a grip on the seal to manipulate it better. I would use any kind of strong, hollow, cylinder-shaped thing that's slightly smaller than the outside of the seal (so you can see the edges of the seal as you're trying to seat it to ensure it's going in correctly), and then you can use a wooden dowel and a rubber/plastic hammer to gently tap around the seal evenly until seated flushly. You could use the opened end of a metal or plastic flashlight as an initial pressing-on device...or the opening to a metal thermos or maybe even a travel mug, or piece of plastic pvc/abs pipe or whatever you have lying around that would work that won't shatter if you tap on it.

Regarding that yellowish drip near the weephole... That hole helps condensation/water infiltration either evaporate or escape the housing. Although it looks like yellow coolant at a first glance, it appears to me that the fluid is emerging from that weephole and spreading out. I don't see any indication that it's leaking from above because I'm not seeing trails from higher up. I do see yellow around the weephole, and fluid from above wouldn't (I don't think) be able to come to rest the way it has. I don't think it's coolant coming from the forward area and splattering around the weephole, since there's no evidence of splattering anywhere else. It's possible you have an internal leak from the transfer case that's revealing itself right there. It might be diluted transfer case gear oil that's coming from that hole. I would smell or even taste it to determine what it is (yellow coolant, lube fluid or something else.) Did you recently spray engine cleaner or something around that area or inside the housing that would drip down from there?
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I use a short handle hammer.
I've also seen people use a small hammer and tap it in by working their way around the seal.
Is it okay to tap the hammer on the dust-seal portion of seal?Otherwise, I don’t know how I can manage to just tap on the very thin outer ring.
I just got the seal driver kit and try using it tomorrow. I made things abit messier today though; I got one part of the seal go in too deep into the case, and after some efforts to pop it out with the pry bar, I think I made a small chip to the inner side of the housing hole’s edge. The seal still was in good shape I believe. Hopefully I can just resume the work tomorrow.

Did you recently spray engine cleaner or something around that area or inside the housing that would drip down from there?
No I did not spray anything recently. That cannot be the coolant indeed, since my coolant is blue. I also think it comes from the transfer case, but I’ll clean that area and use UV dye, probably first with the engine oil, then with CVT fluid, to find out what is what.
 

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Its ok, but try hitting less of it and more on the outer metal part. I found a new spare seal in my garage. Here are a few pics for you. When I get the seal started and its completely riding in the hole, I use this 2 inch pipe and end cap to drive it all the way in. It fits perfectly on the outer edge. When hammering with it, make sure you are holding it flat all around the seal. Otherwise, you might press in one side deeper than the other. Go slow, and always see how its going in.

Removing the seal needs care to avoid gouging the hole where it sits. It can cause leaks if you do. When prying out the old one, you get it from the inside part of the seal. Its Ok to damage the seal than damaging the hole. Avoid any pry bar or screwdriver hitting the inside hole when removing. Post a pic of the chip you created. Its hard not to damage the seal once its gone in and then pulled out again. It may look ok to you but....I never had to do that. Once its riding in you do not want to pull it out. Leaks happen that way. I guess you can try reusing that seal and if it leaks, redo with a new seal. Call it practice. Even the pros make mistakes like that. Mostly due to rushing things.

IMG_1594.JPG IMG_1595.JPG IMG_1596.JPG IMG_1598.JPG IMG_1599.JPG
 

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See this video (seal installation is at 7:45 mark). He used a similar seal driver kit that I used (mine is 2nd gen though, but has a similar shielded seal). nitely's improvised PVC tool should work nicely too. What's concerning now is your comment that you chipped the CVT housing. Post some pictures so we can see the extent of the damage.

BTW...it's clear you've been messing around with this seal quite a bit. Flip it over and make sure the circular tension spring on the back is still intact or otherwise you'll definitely need to get a new seal.

 

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Discussion Starter #78
I think you both were right, the seal did get damaged, right at the circular tension spring where it got a 1” torn apart. Just don’t like the idea of driving for almost 40 mins to buy a 10 buck part, but I guess I don’t have another option.

Yeah I have watched that video for like 20s times, and he made it look so easy that I had the courage to attempt to replace the seal, even though the old one did not look too bad lol.

The CVT housing’s pcitures are below. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks so much!


52597


52599
52600
 

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You need a new seal. Just go to your local auto parts store (call to make sure they have it in stock).

Run your finger around the hole where the seal mates. If it feels smooth then I think you should be o.k. because the damage is in the back behind where the seal sits. But, no guarantees.

In the future, I highly recommend you get a seal removal tool like this one for doing these kinds of jobs since they're cheap and designed to minimize the risk of damaging the seal housing (though it's still possible if you're not careful).
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Thank you! I’ll give the local auto part stores a try. I earlier looked it up on their websites and did not see a way to filter to the axle seal and hence thought that was too specific part for them to carry.
 
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