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Had to replace alternator on my 2011 so I replaced battery at same time. Over this past weekend replaced battery fuse. I know the alternator is good and putting out a charge but for whatever reason my battery isn’t getting the charge I know my battery is good also. No indcater lights on except check engine. Code scanner wouldn’t read code. Could it be a bad ground wire somewhere please help.
 

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Had to replace alternator on my 2011 so I replaced battery at same time. Over this past weekend replaced battery fuse. I know the alternator is good and putting out a charge but for whatever reason my battery isn’t getting the charge I know my battery is good also. No indcater lights on except check engine. Code scanner wouldn’t read code. Could it be a bad ground wire somewhere please help.
Have you checked the voltage at the battery terminals with engine running and electrical accessory loads off and then on? If so, what were the measurements?

If you suspect a problem with the ground side of the charging circuit you can confirm this by doing a voltage drop test with your multimeter. With engine running, connect the multimeter leads to the alternator case and negative battery terminal--should not measure more than 0.1 volts.

The service manual for your car can be found on the nicoclub website (...charging system is the "chg.pdf" file): https://nicoclub.com/FSM/Murano/2011 Murano/

The check engine light may or may not be related, but a scanner should be able to read the code(s)--either upgrade your scanner or have an auto parts store scan the PCM for you.

On a side note--with the quality of aftermarket parts these days, one can no longer assume that because a particular part has been replaced that it can be safely excluded as the cause of the problem.

Let us know if you figure out what the problem is. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the information I’ll try that let’s just pray I find the problem.
 

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Thank you for the information I’ll try that let’s just pray I find the problem.
One other thing I should have added since you believe you have a problem with the charging system is to check the condition of the drive belt and make sure the tension is within spec (see the "MA.pdf" file). A loose belt can negatively impact the functioning of the alternator. It should also go without saying that battery connections should be clean and tight....
 

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Thank you for the information I’ll try that let’s just pray I find the problem.
Hey mandy, I'm reading through because I have a 2011 murano that's having the same problems. Replaced battery with nissan oem and new alternator. Still not charging the battery. Here's what I think. CORROSION... UNDER THE battery plate. You can see where the negative ground meets the body then goes to the trans. I believe our problems are related to the ground cable. Also my positive terminal is so corroded I am going to replace it. The models right before this had a weak braided ground strap that went from body to trans.... They switched to this design I believe... Anyway I am working on the problem now and will let you know. I will be replacing the visible link as well Just to be safe. Clean everything with baking soda and water or battery acid cleaner and neutralizer.... Check those cables.. That's your culprit I believe... Will update though. My email is [email protected] for a quick response and free advice.
 

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One other thing I should have added since you believe you have a problem with the charging system is to check the condition of the drive belt and make sure the tension is within spec (see the "MA.pdf" file). A loose belt can negatively impact the functioning of the alternator. It should also go without saying that battery connections should be clean and tight....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We determined it was the alternator got another one from auto zone and now it’s over charging is there something we’re missing or did I get another bad alternator
 

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We determined it was the alternator got another one from auto zone and now it’s over charging is there something we’re missing or did I get another bad alternator
How did you determine it's overcharging (i.e. is PCM throwing a code, battery warning light is on, tested extremely high voltage at battery terminals with DVOM, etc.)?
 

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Did you change the negative battery cable? I just tried to test for resistance and didn't have good results. I believe thats the problem, it was the problem on the gen before this one. And I think its still the problem
REPLACE BOTH POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE CABLES AS WELL AS THE LEADS TO STARTER THE FUSE BOX.
 

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What about the ground. Mine is bad. Costs 80 bucks on eBay. Ordering now. It's corroded. Failing resistance test on multimeter.
 

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It’s putting out 15.2 volts and the battery light is on
If excessive charging voltage is detected, the procedure is to check the S Terminal circuit--this is the middle wire (Terminal 4) on the 3-wire alternator harness connector. Use a DVOM to check that there's approx. battery voltage at that terminal. If not, there's a problem with that wire. If you do measure battery voltage then the S Terminal circuit is fine and there's something wrong with the voltage regulator (i.e. needs new alternator). Did the auto parts store test the replacement for you before you left the store (...I think some places will still do this)?

Missing10mm's suggestion to check the integrity of the battery ground cable is a good one. It actually has a battery current sensor integrated within that the PCM uses to check the battery charge/discharge rate. The charging system in the Murano is a bit more convoluted than in older systems. The PCM actually calculates the appropriate charging voltage using the input from the battery current sensor and sends that as a commanded value to the IPDM E/R, which in turn converts the commanded value into a signal that is then sent to the voltage regulator. Absent this signal, the voltage regulator calculates charging voltage itself with predetermined values. This extra complexity was added in order to increase fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What about the ground. Mine is bad. Costs 80 bucks on eBay. Ordering now. It's corroded. Failing resistance test on multimeter.
Will that cause over charging? I’m going to do the voltage drop test tomorrow. I’ve got to work tonight.
 

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Will that cause over charging? I’m going to do the voltage drop test tomorrow. I’ve got to work tonight.
We did the voltage drop test last night but I’m not sure we did it properly. Would you have time to list it step by step for me
 

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We did the voltage drop test last night but I’m not sure we did it properly. Would you have time to list it step by step for me
Mandy,
If you're referring to the test I suggested, you only need to connect your DVOM leads to each of the alternator case and battery negative terminal. Just make sure the contact points are clean. If you were directing your question to Missing10mm's "resistance test" then I don't know what he's talking about so perhaps he can provide more details.
 
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