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Discussion Starter #1
I thought that I would share this with all of you. I have a few ham buddies on this forum that might appreciate the installation. Jaak, you watching! :eek:

http://portcredit.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=7

There isn't a flat spot in the entire drivers compartment. I had to make a bracket for the control head. Oh yeah, were do I mount the speaker and have it not interfere with an Air Bag. I ended up mounting the speaker underneath the centre console pushed up against the back of the tray just foward of the shifter.

There is no way I could get a power cable through the firewall (and I looked pretty hard), so I had to take the power from the fuse box with a Mini Fuse circuit creater (BTW, with a 15A fuse running 100W on 6M FM it didn't blow... I thought it would have). Good to know. Canadian Tire has them here in Canada for about $15.

I've mounted the Yaesu FT-857 just about the XM Radio Receiver. The main unit is mounted behind the rear seat on a cross member that fortunately comes out easily enough.
This makes it pretty simple to mount the radio bracket. Also, by lowering the back seat, you can reach the back of the radio for checking antenna connectors and programming from a PC.

I used 1" copper tape all over the back hatch and then ran 1" braid from the hatch to the frame (http://www.portcredit.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-241). Problem here is that I can't get the hidge cover back on. Not a big deal, no one would notice anyway. I might change this and run the braid behind the hindge. I got the braid and the copper tape from a surplus store (Sayal).

I've done mobile installations for years, starting when I was a kid in college (over 25 years ago). This one was by far my most difficult as it took me over 3 days to get it done for a total of about 15 hours (I'm sure old age has slowed me down). The only marks on the hatch are where I had to notch out some plastic so that I could get the antenna mount grub screws. This is behind some trim, so it isn't even visiable.

I hope this helps some others with HF installations. Wanted to share it with you.

Mike VA3MW
 

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Hi Mike,

It's good to see different ideas. I guess I'd probably want to stay off the back door (hatch) just because I don't know how happy it would be with lateral forces. (Strong wind on the highway.)

A couple of ideas have come to mind.

1) Get a crossbar for the roof rack and use that as a mounting point, with the coax under it down to the rails and then snake it in the back.

2) Bend a bracket that could be bolted on with one of the hinges, that comes out the gap between the door and the roof, as a mounting point.

So far, I've not done either! But now you've got me thinking about it again!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not a great fan of the cross bar for a couple of issues.

One, is dealing with Grounds. It also raises the height of the ATAS 120. I also didn't want any visable ground straps running across the roof or into the hatch area.

There was a few points in this installation that I was going to start drilling holes in the roof and actually do it "the right way".

With this installation, I can still back into the garage by bending the whip over and ensuring I'm tuned to 20M to lower the antenna.

I've worked with Fibreglass for years, and I'm pretty confident that it will take the load. There is some flex, which is good. Also the K400M mount distributes the load well. The overlapping flange rests on the C Piller when the hatch is closed, again, making for a pretty strong mount.

I had a bracket that I thought the same thing. It was made of Stainless and could actually do the job. However, I need to get to a friend of mine that has the right tools for the job and see what I can do.

Now, how is that interface coming for the radio to Nissan Bus???? :) Do we just need a PIC card with 2 serial ports?

73...
 

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Mike, I'd think an aluminum cross bar attached to aluminum rails attached to a steel sheet metal roof would be a pretty good ground... A lot better than hanging it off a composite door, next to a metal panel.

The height, I completely agree with. There would have to be some mechanism to lower the thing. (One of the reasons I've not done it.)

But I'd take a lower gain, shorter antenna, on a good ground plane. That's fine for VHF high band and up, but for HF, things get ugly.

I'd be more tempted to go to a hitch mount for HF. You'll never have a good ground plane there, anyway, so get antenna area and keep it away from the electronics up front.

Just random thoughts.

If height wasn't an issue, then I'd go back up to the roof again, just to keep out of the high gain area of the antennas. I'd rather be under it, than beside it, any day...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You RF tech wiennies kill me! LOL (I should look in a mirror).

All good arguements. Most of the loading coil is above the roof were the bulk of the energy comes out. Hopefully well above my already bald head. That is what 30 years of ham radio does to you.

I wanted to avoid the trailer hitch mount (which I can do with my full size High Sierra screwdriver) as it is a pain if you want to pop the hatch.

I had also thought of running a mount off the trailer hitch and beside the C piller, just out of range of the hatch so it could open. It just looked too clunky for my taste.

But, don't you think the way I mounted the control head was cool! ?

I see you avoided my question about the Nissan Interface Bus. :2:

73 again!
 

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Yeah, trained professional tech weenie...

Not only an RF weenie, but a Test and Measurement weenie, having worked for HP, Agilent, Tektronix and Rohde & Schwarz, so major geek.

But I'm having fun!

You could always put on a bike rack for the trailer mount. (wouldn't that be attractive!) I can open my hatch with the bike rack on.

Yeah, I like how you mounted the control head... Didn't say it though!

The interface bus? Lalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalalala.....

Reality is I barely have enough time to do what I have to do. No time to play, which really sucks. I just don't have the time to invest in the programming. (and if I did, there's a nice cherry sunburst Les Paul that complains to me that it doesn't get played enough)

Hope I don't die before I retire, as that would suck!

But I do wish some days, I could get a more laid back job!
 

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2006 Mo Video Interfac

Mike,

Thanks for posting the info on installing your radio in your Murano.
I just leased a 2006 Mo and am installing an Icom 7000 with a Sidekick antenna.

So far I've installed the radio in the left rear well next to the spare compartment. I need to get the power leads back there.

I think I may have to follow your lead on the ground tape you used alone the top of the hatch. Since I have not fired up the 7000 yet I'm not sure what the SWR will be.

Since the 7000 has a video out I'm interested in interfacing the radio's video screen to the NAV screen so I can get the readouts up on the dash.

I've seen a few intefaces for arounf $250.

http://www.coastaletech.com/universal_video.htm
and
http://www.avelectronic.com/NavigationVid-Switcher.htm

I'll post pix when I'm done.
 

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I'm thinking about installing an antenna on a 2018 Murano. I think the best place would be on a luggage rack crossbar (which I would have to add, but looks simple enough).

However, I can't figure out how I would run the antenna cable to the inside (without drilling, of course). I'd like to have the antenna cable routed to the middle console, but I have no idea how to get it there.

Ideas?

73
 
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