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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at a colapsible trailer called Trailmanor that tows at 19ft closed ( and opens to 26 ft ) with a total weight of about 2500# and about 300# TW . It has electric brakes and a 6+1 type of connector - common for RV's ( 6 spades + 1 pin in the center)
I have installed, some time ago, a class 2 hitch which will be OK for the tow but never ran the wiring. Now it looks like I have to do it and consider the electric brakes too.
Has anybody done a similar wiring ? What kind of convertor is needed ? I am wondering if the Modulite 18146 for turn lights is enough, then run the other wires straight to the battery ( Heavy gauge 12V, solid ground, 12V auxiliary) and then the brake wire. Am I assuming right that I need an Electronic Brake Controller that the trailer brake wire connects into and that effectively controlls the trailer brake ?
Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

Marius
 

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I have experiance with the 7 way.
The 6 way is a bit dinky. 7 ways are more abundent and robust.
The 18146 should be enough for the indicators and brake lights.
You can use the Fat "Tow" wire split off in the spare tire well to do your aux 12v--that is exactly what it is designed for. Get one of those one to two male spade to two female spade connectors. Run one to the modulite and one to the 6 way for your 12v aux.
Yes, you will need a brake controller. They work with a pendulum and gain adjuster. First you get it leveled so the pendulum works correctly, then you turn up the gain gradually on test runs to see where it almost makes the trailer brakes lockup on panic stops.

You will get the hang of the feel of it on different terrains: Hilly or congested = higher gain, flat and open = lower.

2500 lbs is surprising for a trailer of that size, my 25 weighted around 5000 lbs with the freshwater tank empty--and it was a light weight. I wouldn't eeeeven think of trailering my 25 with a Mo--the tail would wag the dog severely much less smoke the CVT in a heart beat.

At any rate, find a large camper dealer to do your brake controller/6-7 way wiring for you if you are not completely confident about it. Their liability is on the line with their wiring guys, so they do it right.

Check out this place .
They are very nice folks there and if they don't have it, it isn't made. They are the holy grail for camper stuff.
:D
 

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It is white, it is the largest gauge back there. It is connected to the "Tow" fuse in the fuse compartment under the hood. It is terminated in an empty female spade connector.
Enforcer posted a pic of it long ago Here
If you do a search there is also a link posted that has the wiring for the modulite--note my correction in that thread for wire colors.
Modulite wiring thread

*edit*
How odd, I know I posted a color correction in a hitch wiring thread but I'll be damed if I can find it. There was one color wire it called out when actually the base color of the wire was correct but it had a stripe of another color in it, whereas, the solid color would be the wrong choice.

....oh well, if I can find it I'll post it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you. Should have no trouble now with that portion. Is it true that if I don't connect the backup lights, the trailers brakes are applied when the Mo is switched in reverse ? If the answer is yes, I will have to hunt for that wire also.
BTW, the trailer I got is the 2619 made by Trailmanor (www.trailmanor.com) and is an amazing unit. Mine is a 1997. They are light and full of ammenities. I will see how it tows with the Mo, I may need stabilizer bars. Thanks again. Oh, should I still change the fuze to 10A if I connect all the extras in the Tow wire ? I think I should leave it alone with the extra load. Am I correct ?
 

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BTW ur trailer says 2673 dry with a tongue weight of 351. That is nearing the Mo limit for towing and a little over for the tongue weight.
Any extras should be placed in or on the Mo.
At least get a weight distribution hitch for something that heavy.
I think you would be OK on the stock fuse.
I have never heard of the backup light circuit thingy....maybe it is specific to a certain brake controller. I can tell you that I had my 25 drag a suburban backwards on a steep gravel slope once.....was exciting to say the least. It was a sloooow drag so I was goin "it's alright honey" as my wife had this look of terror on her face.

hehe
That was my camping trip from hell adventure...maybe I will expound on it sometime, funny as hell in hind sight.
 

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Ah HAH!
I found the changes to the wiring directions.

Just thought I would add this as the directions for splicing the wires on my o4 differ a little from the other excellently posted directions.
The second wire in the instructions being connected is the left turn signal wire. In the instructions it says yellow wire from modulite to "green wire with black stripe".
YES, it is green, yes it has a black stripe--BUT, it also has silver dashes or squares as well. There is a green with only the black stripe--and there is the one with a black stripe and the silver dashes or squares--that is the one you want.

So, yellow wire on modulite to green wire with black stripe and silver dashes/squares. NOT the green wire with black stripe.

There are 4 green wires in that bundle by the way.
 
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