[lawsontim789]

Replaced tie rods lower control arms and sway bar links now it is not handling properly I'm sure I have it off somewhere in the tie rods also I need the torque specs for tightening those parts the tie rods have a castle nut but the nut threads on far past the hole for cotter pin so I'm sure that leaving it loose is not what I need to do but it makes no sense to have a castle nut if you tighten that nut down past the hole any help ? Really need torque specs

 

[Pilgrim]

Replaced tie rods lower control arms and sway bar links now it is not handling properly I'm sure I have it off somewhere in the tie rods also I need the torque specs for tightening those parts the tie rods have a castle nut but the nut threads on far past the hole for cotter pin so I'm sure that leaving it loose is not what I need to do but it makes no sense to have a castle nut if you tighten that nut down past the hole any help ? Really need torque specs

Tim, if you want to post AND be understood:

1) Use punctuation.
2) Use sentences, not one long run-on mass of words.

If you want help, make it easy for US to understand what you are attempting to write.

 

[MuranoSL2003]

You can download the service manuals from here:

How To Use NICOclub Factory Service Manuals

Here's a step-by-step guide to help find the correct Factory Service Manual for your Nissan, Infiniti, or Datsun - and a tutorial on how to use it!

www.nicoclub.com

 

[I need coffee]

Replaced tie rods lower control arms and sway bar links now it is not handling properly

If you replaced the LCAs then more than likely you need to get a wheel alignment since toe can change.

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

I usually try to measure and mark the length of the old tierods before installing the new end. The castle nut should not tighten too far past where the cotter pin can be of use. So if you are infact too tight, then I would suggest loosening them. You really shouldn't need torque measurements to do this but definitely check the manual if so inclined. You may want to investigate the location of the hole for the cotter pin, did you reuse the old castle nut?

 

[PaulDay]

So if you are infact too tight, then I would suggest loosening them.

To start castle nuts should be tightened to about 15 - 20-foot lbs. of torque, with it then only being loosened enough to get the cotter pin in. If the castle nut goes past the point of being able to use the cotter pin, then you have the wrong tie rod.

The tie rod needs to be pulled fully down into the mating hole on the steering knuckle/arm. The mating surfaces are sloped slightly to help prevent side torque from oblonging the hole, which a straight bolt can do when subjected to repeated back and forth motion.

If your new tie rod knuckle measures the same, then you might be having an issue with the receiving hole on the steering knuckle/arm being worn out.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[I need coffee]

If the cotter pin hole isn't positioned properly then it's probably an aftermarket part manufacturing issue or the wrong castle nut was included in the kit. Does the original castle nut work better? If so, use that instead. If the OP decides to stick with the part then I would prioritize torquing the nut to the proper tightness above lining up the cotter pin. That pin is just a fail-safe to keep the nut from unexpectedly loosening. Not all steering and suspension parts use cotter pins. Some use lock nuts or thread-locking compounds. If the OP has threadlocker then I would suggest using that and putting the cotter pin in anyway, even if it's not positioned how it should be. Ball joints usually use an M10 or M12 shaft and castle nuts aren't typically very tight. The tie rod castle nut spec for this car is 33 ft-lbs (for comparison, the oil pan drain plug is 25 ft-lbs). I would personally tighten the castle nut slightly rather than loosen to align the cotter pin hole, just my opinion.

If aftermarket tie rod was used, I would again suggest getting a wheel alignment since even if the OP did a good job of marking the jam nut etc. there's no guarantee that toe will be as it was before the tie rod was replaced.

 

[lawsontim789]

If the cotter pin hole isn't positioned properly then it's probably an aftermarket part manufacturing issue or the wrong castle nut was included in the kit. Does the original castle nut work better? If so, use that instead. If the OP decides to stick with the part then I would prioritize torquing the nut to the proper tightness above lining up the cotter pin. That pin is just a fail-safe to keep the nut from unexpectedly loosening. Not all steering and suspension parts use cotter pins. Some use lock nuts or thread-locking compounds. If the OP has threadlocker then I would suggest using that and putting the cotter pin in anyway, even if it's not positioned how it should be. Ball joints usually use an M10 or M12 shaft and castle nuts aren't typically very tight. The tie rod castle nut spec for this car is 33 ft-lbs (for comparison, the oil pan drain plug is 25 ft-lbs). I would personally tighten the castle nut slightly rather than loosen to align the cotter pin hole, just my opinion.

If aftermarket tie rod was used, I would again suggest getting a wheel alignment since even if the OP did a good job of marking the jam nut etc. there's no guarantee that toe will be as it was before the tie rod was replaced.

Thanks for the help guys I was indeed questioning the castle nut situation because I knew the purpose of it but the nut goes far past that I found a spec sheet claiming 41 ft lbs on tie rod I had it pretty close but adjusted a little more to straighten out the driver tire now the tires are straight but it drives wonky so idk I'm stuck and have no alignment money

 

[2ndGenMaintainer]

Could you possibly take some pictures for us and maybe list the part numbers for the parts you used?

 

[I need coffee]

Thanks for the help guys I was indeed questioning the castle nut situation because I knew the purpose of it but the nut goes far past that I found a spec sheet claiming 41 ft lbs on tie rod I had it pretty close but adjusted a little more to straighten out the driver tire now the tires are straight but it drives wonky so idk I'm stuck and have no alignment money

You can't just blindly mess around with tie rod adjustments without having a baseline and doing measurements. The tires might look straight, but be far out of alignment. If you have 4 jack stands, some string, and an accurate straight edge then you can try to do it like the track guys do. Check YouTube on how to do 4-wheel string alignments. It's very time-consuming and won't be as accurate as the $50k alignment racks in the tire shops, but one can get a good enough toe alignment with them. Just make sure that the strings on each side of the car are parallel to each other and the distance from string to axle on each of the front and rear wheels are equal. I shoot for 1.0-1.5mm of toe-in for each wheel. It helps to make some "equipment" using electrical conduit or PVC if you happen to have some. People that do this often usually buy equipment.

Outside of this I don't have any other options to share. Getting an alignment at a shop may not be cheap, but having to replace tires because the alignment is way off is a lot more expensive--and you would still have to get the alignment fixed.