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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2009 murano le. HID headlights. Pax side headlight works correctly when switching from low to high beam. PROBLEM is driver side headlight. Low beam works properly, BUT light does not switch to high beam when selected. Driver side headlight remains in low beam when switching to high beam---beam doesn't switch to high like pax side.
 

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I believe the high/low beams for HIDs are done with a moveable shutter. It sounds like the shutter for the driver's side is not operating properly... Inspect the fixture to see if anything can be done to correct it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What powers the shutter? Switched out entire headlamp assembly (with another driver side assembly) and have the same problem.
 

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I would imagine it's controlled by something like the BCM. If it acts the same with another headlamp assembly, I'd start by checking the connector to be sure there isn't a broken wire or corrosion...

You can find the factory service manuals here:
 

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What powers the shutter? Switched out entire headlamp assembly (with another driver side assembly) and have the same problem.
The IPDM. Since you say that only the LH high-beam is not working that means the relay is fine and both low-beams work so the HID assembly is getting power. The problem is likely with the high-beam solenoid circuit or the solenoid itself. I think the latter is less likely as I believe the solenoid is integrated into the headlamp assembly and you already replaced it (...I'm not 100% certain it isn't a separate part, but if it is I can't seem to find it in any OEM parts diagrams).

Check the fuse (#54) first, If that's good, unplug the high-beam solenoid connector (E325 in the 2nd diagram below--E323 is the HID assembly connector) and make sure it's getting battery voltage when the high-beam is turned on. If not, check continuity between the solenoid harness connector power feed (terminal #1--green wire) and the IPDM harness connector (terminal 90--also green). If no continuity, hunt for the broken wire. If the solenoid connector is getting power then check continuity between the solenoid terminal #2 (black wire) to ground. If that checks out then the high-beam solenoid is bad, but again, I doubt this--it's probably just a blown fuse...

You'll find all these diagrams and more in the service manual for your car (see the "Exterior Lighting" file): https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

Be sure to post back what you find so the information can help others who might have the same problem.

53597



53600


53599
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks to "I need coffee" for the diagrams and trouble shooting guide. Here are the step by step results:
#1. Checked all fuses-they were all good. Looked twice at #54.
#2. Checked E323 for voltage with lights turned on (both high and low beam). Voltmeter showed 12.3volts in both high and low positions.
#3. Checked E325 for voltage with lights on low beam--no voltage. Checked with lights in high beam---Voltmeter showed 70Volts when initially switched to high position and immediately started dropping to settle steady on 17volts
after about 10 seconds.
#4. Green wire continuity to IPDM harness was good.
#5. #2 Black wire continuity...Checked wire form wire to negative pole on battery . No ohms displayed. Question-is that a good place to ground for continuity?
Any other ideas???
So where is the high beam solenoid?
 

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#3. Checked E325 for voltage with lights on low beam--no voltage. Checked with lights in high beam---Voltmeter showed 70Volts when initially switched to high position and immediately started dropping to settle steady on 17volts
after about 10 seconds.
70 volts and then stays at 17 volts?! This circuit is simply energizing a solenoid...Can you replicate those measurements right at the IPDM terminal 90? Just for comparison, the IPDM power feed for the RH is right next to it (terminal 89).

EDIT: Just double-checked service manual and there should just be battery voltage coming from both terminals 89 and 90 to feed their respective high-beam solenoids.
 

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Rechecked green wire at E325 it displays 12.1volts
O.K. Yeah, I was scratching my head on that one. So, that solenoid is getting power.

You should get continuity at the battery terminal for the ground terminal. Did you check that your leads are making a good connection? You can try another ground somewhere else in the engine compartment. Both high-beam solenoids share the same ground on the passenger side (E310--see below) so given that the RH solenoid works, if it is a ground connection issue then it would be somewhere between the LH solenoid harness connector and that ground terminal.

Another thing I would suggest is to do a resistance measurement between the solenoid terminals where that solenoid harness plugs in. I don't now what the spec is and I doubt the service manual even has one, but you should get something (i.e. not 0L, which would be an open in the solenoid itself).

BTW, if you can actually find where that ground is, take a pic and post it so people can be certain where exactly it is.

EDIT: And just to be certain there is no issue with the wiring to the IPDM, disconnect the IPDM harness connector where the green wire is and the solenoid harness connector. With that harness no longer connected to anything, turn the ignition switch on. Take another voltage measurement at each of terminals 1 and 2 on the LH solenoid harness connector (should be 0 volts) and do a continuity test for each (should be no continuity). This is just to rule out a short to power or ground.

53608
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chasing down the black wire for E325 for a co-located ground (at E310) with the pax side has proved impossible. The wad of wires traversing the rear of the radiator are inaccessible unless you remove a ton of stuff. And after looking for a long time no co-located pax and driver ground location is visible.
Question: If the black wire for E325 goes across to share a ground with the pax side light...then why can't it just be spliced and grounded on the driver side so that it provides continuity?
Will keep trying if there is a reasonable solution.
 

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Chasing down the black wire for E325 for a co-located ground (at E310) with the pax side has proved impossible. The wad of wires traversing the rear of the radiator are inaccessible unless you remove a ton of stuff. And after looking for a long time no co-located pax and driver ground location is visible.
Question: If the black wire for E325 goes across to share a ground with the pax side light...then why can't it just be spliced and grounded on the driver side so that it provides continuity?
Will keep trying if there is a reasonable solution.
So, you're definitely not getting continuity when you tested the solenoid ground terminal?

Before doing any kind of a splice like that you should confirm it is a bad ground. Perhaps you can back-probe the connector ground wire with a T-pin while it's plugged in, turn the high-beams on and ground the circuit to the body somewhere very briefly just to test that a new ground solves the problem.

BTW, is there anything that could explain the ground wire getting damaged (e.g. recent repair in that area, traffic crash, etc.)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So let me make sure I'm testing for continuity correctly for E325.... I turn on the lights, position the light lever to high beam (the pax light responds to both low and high beam), Volt meter on Ohm, checking black wire with one lead and the other to the negative post on the battery. I've done that and get no response-just OL. The green wire gives me 12 volts when the car light switch is positioned to high beam.

After getting my patience back I started chasing wires from E325 (green and black) behind the radiator only to find there are 6-8 black wires loop back and forth inside the plastic insulator behind the radiator. Any reason for the looping back and forth? The green wire appears to continue to the pax light assembly. I did find a connector for 2 large black wires bolted to the engine. They appear to come from the IPDM along with all the other wires in the bundle.

Just a question.....Looking at the diagram for the pax side the two grounds E307 and E310 you referenced seem to come from E319 as the diagram on the driver side E309 and E312 come from E335. Don't see from the diagram where both sides are grounded on the pax side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh, forgot to answer your question.....yes, had radiator replaced about 6-8 months ago. Also, had serpentine belt replaced 3-4 months ago. Can't confirm the light was not working before or after the repair (It's my wife's car).
 

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So let me make sure I'm testing for continuity correctly for E325.... I turn on the lights, position the light lever to high beam (the pax light responds to both low and high beam), Volt meter on Ohm, checking black wire with one lead and the other to the negative post on the battery. I've done that and get no response-just OL.
It's just a regular ground. The switching happens on the power side when you turn the high-beams on and the relay inside the IPDM allows current to flow to the solenoid. You should have continuity from the black wire to ground regardless of whether or not the ignition is on or off. If you don't then it looks like the black ground wire is indeed the problem.

After getting my patience back I started chasing wires from E325 (green and black) behind the radiator only to find there are 6-8 black wires loop back and forth inside the plastic insulator behind the radiator. Any reason for the looping back and forth?
No clue. Usually the wiring stays inside the insulator unless it branches out to another bundle.

Just a question.....Looking at the diagram for the pax side the two grounds E307 and E310 you referenced seem to come from E319 as the diagram on the driver side E309 and E312 come from E335. Don't see from the diagram where both sides are grounded on the pax side.
It's the very first wiring diagram in my first reply that shows the whole HID system. If you follow the circuit for each high-beam solenoid then you'll see that they both terminate at E310.

Oh, forgot to answer your question.....yes, had radiator replaced about 6-8 months ago. Also, had serpentine belt replaced 3-4 months ago. Can't confirm the light was not working before or after the repair (It's my wife's car).
If the ground wire is damaged then perhaps it was when the radiator was replaced (e.g. if the mechanic took out the cooling fan assembly to get to the lower hose)--this is speculation, of course. But, wires don't just break for no reason if this is the root of the problem here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, to put an end to this whole discussion and give a sequence of events.
Driver side headlight would not go to high beam when selected. I replaced the HID headlight and ballast only to have the same results-no high beam.
Thinking it might be the headlight actuator for the shutter that moves in front of the headlight, which makes the beam high or low, I substituted another complete headlight assembly. Same results-only low beam, no high beam when selected.
Checked the power wire and ground wire to the headlight. No continuity when checking the (black) ground wire-power (12Volts) to the green power wire. Obviously, no ground. Tried chasing down the broken ground wire-Impossible to follow it to the pax side unless you want to remove the radiator and a lot other items.
Remembered that the radiator and serpentine belt had been replaced months earlier-did not notice driver light problem since it is only sporadically driven by me (wife's car).l
Determined that the ground wire must have been broken during the radiator and serpentine belt installation.
Spliced a ground wire to the ground (black) wire and grounded/attached it to the car frame. Hooked up the light to check the operation and it worked fine. Not the ideal solution, but it is a 2009 and it worked fine.
I NEED COFFEE....thanks for the time and effort you expended to assist me in solving this problem. Lots of rookie/learning mistakes on my part. Next time-take it to the shop-"pay the man".
ANYONE need a Driver side complete HID headlight assembly for a 2009 Nissan Murano LE??? Contact me here.
Black Murano
 

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So, to put an end to this whole discussion and give a sequence of events.
Driver side headlight would not go to high beam when selected. I replaced the HID headlight and ballast only to have the same results-no high beam.
Thinking it might be the headlight actuator for the shutter that moves in front of the headlight, which makes the beam high or low, I substituted another complete headlight assembly. Same results-only low beam, no high beam when selected.
Checked the power wire and ground wire to the headlight. No continuity when checking the (black) ground wire-power (12Volts) to the green power wire. Obviously, no ground. Tried chasing down the broken ground wire-Impossible to follow it to the pax side unless you want to remove the radiator and a lot other items.
Remembered that the radiator and serpentine belt had been replaced months earlier-did not notice driver light problem since it is only sporadically driven by me (wife's car).l
Determined that the ground wire must have been broken during the radiator and serpentine belt installation.
Spliced a ground wire to the ground (black) wire and grounded/attached it to the car frame. Hooked up the light to check the operation and it worked fine. Not the ideal solution, but it is a 2009 and it worked fine.
I NEED COFFEE....thanks for the time and effort you expended to assist me in solving this problem. Lots of rookie/learning mistakes on my part. Next time-take it to the shop-"pay the man".
ANYONE need a Driver side complete HID headlight assembly for a 2009 Nissan Murano LE??? Contact me here.
Black Murano
Thanks for confirming that it was the ground (and the great summary). This should help other people that might have the same problem. You should try hawking the old HID headlight assembly on eBay.
 
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