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hi all,

after servicing and changing ac hub, bearing, clutch etc I noticed not but a day or two later horrible squealing.

upon checking it over it was clearly at least one of the idler pulleys, if not both and the belt tensioner which seemed to be the original that came with the vehicle!

So I took the cover off, spun them and sure enough one pulley was shot, the tensioner had play and made noise and maybe the other pulley was on its way.

So I ordered parts from the tried and tested rockauto.com ordering the cheap stuff from Ultra Power with the Belt Tensioner, Upper Idler Pulley and Lower Idler Pulley.

Tools you will need:
  • 13mm socket and long ratchet (3/8 extendable preferred)
  • 13mm long and short wrench
  • 13mm ratcheting wrench
  • 14mm socket
    [*]screw driver to plug into the belt tensioner to remove/install belt.



Step 1: loosen lugs on passenger side, jack it up and remove wheel and plastic cover. optionally you can remove a few clips to move fender liner out of your way.

step 2: use 14mm socket and extendable or long ratchet to move belt tensioner clockwise and then stick a Philips screw driver in the bolt hole to hold

step 3: remove belt (remember to have diagram for later).

step 4: remove both upper and lower pulleys. 13mm ratchet if it'll fit or more likely, 13mm long wrench with the box end. break them both loose and you should be able to use your fingers to loosen and remove bolts.

step 5: install new pulleys. loctite is optional but torque spec is in the mid 20s ft/lbs.

step 6 (the pain in the ass step): loosen the drive belt tensioner bolts, there are two and the top one is partially hidden behind the power steering pump pulley. a long handle 13mm to break the top one loose and it is almost necessary to use the ratcheting 13mm wrench here.

once you get it to a point where you can use your fingers, stick index finger of your left hand through a hole in the power steering pulley and use your thumb outside it to turn.

bottom one should be accessible with a 13mm socket and ratchet and extension. break loose, remove and wiggle out the tensioner.

step 8: route in new tensioner and thread both bolts and tighten in reverse order from step 7. Then use 14mm extendible ratchet to then lock the new tensioner.

step 9: route belt using belt diagram and make sure you take your time to fit it right with tensioner locked. once you've check it over several times that each part of the belt is routed correctly, remove your screw driver and add the tension back.

step 10: start vehicle and observe that it's all running and working correctly. Test your AC and steering, etc.

step 11: button it all back up and put clips back and wheel and tire. torque tire lugs properly (82ft/lbs or so).

the hardest part is the belt tensioner. a ratcheting wrench and long box wrench are really your best friends.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, forgot to. mention all torque specs are around 25ft/lbs to 35ft/lbs for everything except the lugs so just hand tight then a 1/4 turn will usually do it.
 

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hi all,

after servicing and changing ac hub, bearing, clutch etc I noticed not but a day or two later horrible squealing.

upon checking it over it was clearly at least one of the idler pulleys, if not both and the belt tensioner which seemed to be the original that came with the vehicle!

So I took the cover off, spun them and sure enough one pulley was shot, the tensioner had play and made noise and maybe the other pulley was on its way.

So I ordered parts from the tried and tested rockauto.com ordering the cheap stuff from Ultra Power with the Belt Tensioner, Upper Idler Pulley and Lower Idler Pulley.

Tools you will need:

    • 13mm socket and long ratchet (3/8 extendable preferred)
    • 13mm long and short wrench
    • 13mm ratcheting wrench

  • 14mm socket
    [*]screw driver to plug into the belt tensioner to remove/install belt.



Step 1: loosen lugs on passenger side, jack it up and remove wheel and plastic cover. optionally you can remove a few clips to move fender liner out of your way.

step 2: use 14mm socket and extendable or long ratchet to move belt tensioner clockwise and then stick a Philips screw driver in the bolt hole to hold

step 3: remove belt (remember to have diagram for later).

step 4: remove both upper and lower pulleys. 13mm ratchet if it'll fit or more likely, 13mm long wrench with the box end. break them both loose and you should be able to use your fingers to loosen and remove bolts.

step 5: install new pulleys. loctite is optional but torque spec is in the mid 20s ft/lbs.

step 6 (the pain in the ass step): loosen the drive belt tensioner bolts, there are two and the top one is partially hidden behind the power steering pump pulley. a long handle 13mm to break the top one loose and it is almost necessary to use the ratcheting 13mm wrench here.

once you get it to a point where you can use your fingers, stick index finger of your left hand through a hole in the power steering pulley and use your thumb outside it to turn.

bottom one should be accessible with a 13mm socket and ratchet and extension. break loose, remove and wiggle out the tensioner.

step 8: route in new tensioner and thread both bolts and tighten in reverse order from step 7. Then use 14mm extendible ratchet to then lock the new tensioner.

step 9: route belt using belt diagram and make sure you take your time to fit it right with tensioner locked. once you've check it over several times that each part of the belt is routed correctly, remove your screw driver and add the tension back.

step 10: start vehicle and observe that it's all running and working correctly. Test your AC and steering, etc.

step 11: button it all back up and put clips back and wheel and tire. torque tire lugs properly (82ft/lbs or so).

the hardest part is the belt tensioner. a ratcheting wrench and long box wrench are really your best friends.
As for the long handle 13mm does it have to be offset and closed ended or will a regular open end long handle do the job?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As for the long handle 13mm does it have to be offset and closed ended or will a regular open end long handle do the job?
closed ended ratcheting if possible.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Also do you know what that connector that located to the right of the oil filter is? I cracked mine and need to replace it.
Thanks for the previous answer.
metal? pic?
 

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2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
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That's the Oil Pressure Switch.

You're probably done with the job, but if anyone else is contemplating replacing the belt tensioner, I found that a 1/4 inch socket with a short wobble extension through the PS pulley hole gave a good angle on the top bolt to break it free and then finished with a ratcheting wrench as m4gician described due to clearance issues.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Oil pressure something? Look at it and take a look where the wiring went.
 
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That's the Oil Pressure Switch.

You're probably done with the job, but if anyone else is contemplating replacing the belt tensioner, I found that a 1/4 inch socket with a short wobble extension through the PS pulley hole gave a good angle on the top bolt to break it free and then finished with a ratcheting wrench as m4gician described due to clearance issues.
Yes I got it done. It was a pain at first but I actually made a tool that fit.
20201002_185230.jpg
 
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