Finally, did it this weekend, took me about 8 hours in total. Not an easy job, primarily due to small space to outmaneuver parts/tools and hands under the car, as well as I used MasterPro parts from O'Reilly where the flexible and hard line hoses come in as separate pieces.
The practice of "Remember to breathe and take your time." definitely helps in this case. I spend 3 hours Friday evening to take things apart, and another 4 hours Sat to put things back on including various trials and errors, and another 1 hour to clean up the old spills and test.
Couple of things to note:
1. Wiper arm is made of two segments and is spring loaded. After the nuts are removed, make sure you press down the middle of the arm flat against the window glass so the tension at the bolt is even around its circumference, then it will be easy to move the whole arm out. Also note that at the end when you put arms back and start to tighten the nuts, use on hard holding the wiper arm to balance the torque from your tightening. This will prevent damage to the spline. I did strip the spline a bit, but after tightening the nuts, both arms moved well.
2. The bolt at the back of the engine give me most trouble - tight space so can only get a short wrench in there. Almost stripped the bolt badly. Maybe I tried it when engine was still hot. Suggest wait till engine cold to do this.
3. The unscrewing and tightening of the hose to steering rack connection is difficult due to tight space. Using a crowfoot and also an extension worked well for me (including torque it to the right spec, with some calculation due to the crowfoot change the leverage).
4. Now, here is the difference of MasterPro part from O'Reilly vs. the original part: it has no brackets (there are two set of brackets from the original part), and no sensor, and the flexible hose and hard line hose came as two separate pieces. I reused old brackets and sensor. But here is why it it is tedious:
a. Tightening the two hoses is not difficult, but I had to figuer out the right torque. I tighten it to about 21~15 foot lbs.
b. You have to be careful about the angle the two are connected. There are multiple hoses/lines down there, and space is tight, so incorrect angel would not fit. I took the two apart from the original part because I wanted to see if there is an o-ring there, but I did this before I observe the angel the two hoses are aligned! So I had to slide the two separate pieces back in car (quite an effort) and then try to piece them together at the 3 connections (including banjo bolt, hose to rack and this connection of the two hoses) so I know which angel the new hoses should be connected. I chose to tighten the two hoses before putting the whole new part into car, because I want to make sure the connection is tighten and there is just not enough room under car to make sure of that. This whole game plan took me at least 1 hour of time (at least). The hard line can be bent a bit, so you don't have to be 100% exact in the alignment of the two hoses.
5. Observe and note exactly how the whole end to end pressure line goes underneath the car. Take photos of various angle, so later on you don't have to experiment like I did.
6. The o-ring that came with the part is for the hard line hose to rack connection. There is no o-ring between the flexible and hard line hoses (it is a crush seal). The bonjo bolt requires 2 copper ring which are included in the new part. I did not have a new o-ring for the sensor, so I reused both the old sensor and its old o-ring.
7. I tighten the sensor quite hard. Used a vise to hold it in place when tighten. Also two adjustable wrenches should work equally well.
8. I connect the lower bracket first (don't tighten it yet), then the hose to rack connection (again, don't tighten it yet), then use a small rope to hang the upper racket/hose to the engine block so that it will not fall down. This allows me to put copper washers and connect bonjo bolt all by myself. Then I went back tighten the hose to rack connection, the lower bracket, bonjo bolt, then the higher bracket.
9. Pay attention to the orientation of the lower bracket, so that it is properly installed on the hose.
10. I used about 80% of a quart to fill up the lost ps fluid. During bleeding, I could hear slight friction noise from the ps pump only when the steering wheel goes to the far left/right end. I am not sure if this is new after the DIY or it has been like that before though.
Car now steers about the same as before. If steering is easier than before, I have to say that I can't tell really. There is no more dripping of oil on the floor (at least for now). That feels great.
Now I can concentrate on whether the car is leaking engine oil or it is burning oil.