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2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
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I'll be driving MO for at least another few months and I really don't like looking at the "no fuel" light being on. If it stays off, great...I guess I could always pull a fuse if it's isolated, but I doubt it is. If the needle hadn't dropped to E after filling up, I really wouldn't care about this glitch - I always use the trip set anyway to see how far I go, and to generally see how far I can go on a tank of gas. It comes down to just being curious as to why the fuel reading is acting so spordically. Again, I could understand it under-reporting fuel if stuck and the needle shows 3/4 when it's should show F. But how, when stopped doing nothing, does it go from 3/4 to E? That's what I'm not grasping. Could it actually be the fuel gauge that's crapping out? I like finding answers.
It's too coincidental that this started after replacing the fuel pump. There's two fuel level sensors--one on the pump itself and also another on the other side of the tank (passenger side) that has a wire that runs across to the fuel pump assembly. Maybe the connection has come loose or there's some other connection problem going on in there. Or, perhaps installation error.

52569
 

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2003 Nissan Murano SE AWD
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
That connection to the other side has always been on my mind since he installed the pump and I've been getting bad fuel readings. With this latest incident, I don't think the wire getting caught up in the float is the problem. I wonder if a scraped wire could randomly contact something within the tank or on the fuel pump, and that bare contact is affecting the sensor readings. Up until the needle went down from being up, the fuel reading had been fairly constant and predictable. Again, had just filled up, needle was around 3/4 as I drove about 1/4 mile away and stopped and idled on a level surace, needle had moved towards F, and then after about ten minutes I looked at it again and it had dropped to around 1/4 and then went to E. So, no car movement or sloushing of fuel inside the tank that might move things around.
 

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Over the years, both sensor tracks start varnishing up causing lower or wrong readings. Mine was in the mid 200s and it would never reach F. Removed the right sender and cleaned it, worked much better. A year later, it was doing the same again. Removed the fuel pump and cleaned its sender. Worked fine again.

Nissan actually released revised sender modules for both sides after some time. I believe they should be more reliable, but also around $50-70 each.

I'm at almost 292K and ordered a used fuel pump with 68K, should receive and install it this week. My original pump seems to work fine, but I know its going to ruin my day sooner or later.

I had my first real breakdown at 290K. The alternator was only putting out 12V and not a lot of amps. It could run 2 out 3 lights, a/c, and rear defroster. All 3 and the voltage would drop to 10-11V and engine and trans became unresponsive. I had left to work and had them all running, and it died a few miles from home. I figured out the problem and drove another week while waiting for the new used alternator to come in. Put in one with 100K and its working fine again.
 

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2003 Nissan Murano SE AWD
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Over the years, both sensor tracks start varnishing up causing lower or wrong readings. Mine was in the mid 200s and it would never reach F. Removed the right sender and cleaned it, worked much better. A year later, it was doing the same again. Removed the fuel pump and cleaned its sender. Worked fine again.

Nissan actually released revised sender modules for both sides after some time. I believe they should be more reliable, but also around $50-70 each.

I'm at almost 292K and ordered a used fuel pump with 68K, should receive and install it this week. My original pump seems to work fine, but I know its going to ruin my day sooner or later.

I had my first real breakdown at 290K. The alternator was only putting out 12V and not a lot of amps. It could run 2 out 3 lights, a/c, and rear defroster. All 3 and the voltage would drop to 10-11V and engine and trans became unresponsive. I had left to work and had them all running, and it died a few miles from home. I figured out the problem and drove another week while waiting for the new used alternator to come in. Put in one with 100K and its working fine again.
Could be varnishing, but it would be highly coincidental, though still possible. I was trying to figure out how the sweep and float could cause the reading to go from 3/4 to E so quickly...and even at all, when the tank is full. Mechanically, it doesn't seem possible, unless that sensor lead is snagged around the float and being tugged on by something else that's causing the float to change its normal position. This fuel pump isn't a simple up/down arm like with a toilet fill valve or sump pump, the sweep is more laterally oriented. I told my mechanic that if it goes to E again, I'll let him replace the pump.

292,000 miles...fantastic. Are you the original owner? Definitely makes sense to replace the fuel pump before it dies. Mine was working fine and then... I'm on the first warranty replacement alternator from 2007 and it's working fine so far. I've got lots of little things that are original but that other owners seem to replace a lot, so it's just a matter of time for me. Of course, many owners haven't gone through seven CVTs, so I guess it all evens out in the end. :)
 

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Since you got an aftermarket pump I believe, it may just have bad tracks on the sender. Unfortunately only way to really check is to remove it and test with a multimeter.

My mom is the original owner, then I bought it from her 7 years later. I drove it home from the dealer when she bought it, and I've done all the repairs on it since then. I received the used fuel pump I had ordered, and also snagged one from a very clean Murano at the u-pull-it for $35. I'll test them both and decide which one to use.
 

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2003 Nissan Murano SE AWD
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Discussion Starter #67
Today's fillup had the fuel tank gurgling again for a good eight seconds after removing the nozzle. Sounds like I've got a Xenomorph lurking in the fill tube. The last time it happened was nearly a month ago. I probably would've been better off with that $56 pump via Amazon.
 

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2003 Nissan Murano SE AWD
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Got a new OBDII reader that came with free software, and I can now see info I couldn't on my more expensive unit. Code P0463 is what's triggering, stating "fuel level sensor circuit high input."

A quick search indicated the following as corrective measures:
  1. Repairing or replacing the fuel tank.
  2. Repairing or replacing the fuel level sensor float.
  3. Repairing or replacing the fuel level sensor.
  4. Replacing the wiring harness for the fuel level sensor.
  5. Tightening a loose connection in the fuel level sensor circuit.
OBD-II Code P0463 is defined as a Fuel Level Sensor Sensor High Circuit Input. The Fuel Level Sensor tells the Power Train Computer or PCM how much fuel is in the fuel tank. It does this by using a float on a lever that is connected to an electronic device called a potentiometer.
 

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