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Discussion Starter #1
I think I've finally convinced Stinger to manufacture a high-outptut alternator for the Murano. They said it will be out soon. (Roughly 3 months.)

Aside from this topic, I'm having some pretty significant light dimming problems in the MO. I have around 1,100 watts RMS (constant) power from my amps. Anyone have any clues on anything that could be done to reduce it? I've already replaced the battery with an Optima Red Top which helped a little, and I've recently installed a 5 farad cap which helped a little more. I'm thinking about upgarding the size ground wire coming from the battery to the frame to 4 or 2 AWG. It's cheap and I've heard it helps....
 

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'03 SE 2WD Cold Pkg, VDC
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Dookie....

I enjoy reading your posts on audio. I'm not totally into that type of audio upgrades but the thread on tweeters has got me thinking...

From my adventures on another forum for our other car I learned that slight dimming is normal. Drain is drain. I have the Optima Red in our other ride but in the associated forum, the discussions recommended the Optima Yellow Top. It is better suited for those who have done extensive electrical upgrades.
 

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Dookie:

If you are pulling more amperage than the Murano has on reserve (battery and alternator output at max) then the laws of physics must simply kick in and the current will begin to spread among all of your components with less vigor. If you are really concerned you may have no choice but to put another battery in your loop. The same company that you bought your amp harness from also supplies islolators/splitters and power contactors to get the job done in a professional manner. As far as getting a high amp alternator, I cant really see that working that well. How much more current will it deliver 15-20 more amps?

This is the primary reason auto maunfacturers are decidedly going to 24volt systems in the near future.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Gen:

Stinger says the alt will be approximately 200 amps.

As far as power goes, I had a 5 farad cap in the back by the amps, but I know this is nothing comparable to what a battery can supply. The only thing is space requirements. I can't find a spot back there to install one. I was thinking that little cubby hole to the left below the false floor, but I'm not sure.
 

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I can't believe you're running less than 4-gauge wire. I'm running half as much power in another vehicle and I'm running 4 gauge. It might be overkill for my app - but....

Is the altenator the same on the Maxima/Altima/any other Nissan VQ engine? I'd think the issue would have already come up on a Maxima.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GMTURBO43 said:
I can't believe you're running less than 4-gauge wire. I'm running half as much power in another vehicle and I'm running 4 gauge. It might be overkill for my app - but....

Is the altenator the same on the Maxima/Altima/any other Nissan VQ engine? I'd think the issue would have already come up on a Maxima.
I am running 4 guage wire to the amps. I'm talking about upgrading the factory grounds because they look like they are only 8 guage--the one from the battery to the frame and the one from the alternator to the frame.
 

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SHIFT_FASTER
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Power System Upgrades

Dookie said:
I think I've finally convinced Stinger to manufacture a high-outptut alternator for the Murano. They said it will be out soon. (Roughly 3 months.)
Any word on this? I had some problems with my battery running down this winter, with the STOCK stereo. Once I upgrade, it'll be important.

One thing I noted about the Murano that is a potential electrical issue: due to the way the transmission works, you probably aren't going to be achieving maximum charging potential, as the RPMs are kept fairly low most of the time. This is even more of an issue in the winter, because I accelerate even more slowly, besides having all the extra draw (seats, rear window, etc.).

Aside from this topic, I'm having some pretty significant light dimming problems in the MO. I'm thinking about upgarding the size ground wire coming from the battery to the frame to 4 or 2 AWG. It's cheap and I've heard it helps....
This would make sense. Has anyone tried it yet?
 

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Dookie,

1,100 W RMS in 12 V installation will draw 92 Amps divided by 0.7 efficiency factor (or something like this) = 130 AMPS! I believe that standard alternator is rated 110 A. Now you can see the difference!

Neither the capacitor nor thicker wires will help. Tough I would recommend both of them for different reasons: capacitor – to take care of Peak demand and thicker wire to prevent overheating and voltage drop.

The only solution you have is a bigger alternator with 150 AMPS or more output.

Just my 2c…………
 

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Hey Kris

I too have a problem with drop and lights diming , can you recommend a battery upgrade first , i am presently usind a cca 600 with 110 reserve down here on the island i can only get interstate or Napa batterys i would prefer interstate what kind of battry would u recommend ? What about a bibber alternator as u recommend where can i get one ???, Thank you
 

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sxmdaniel
sorry I am out of the countryn ow and do not have access to the info. Also I am not a battery expert. But get the biggest one you can fit. Alternator - you will need to talk with your local shop to make sure that a biggerone will fit.
Sorry for not being helpful on this one....:(
 

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The only thing I could suggest would be to do the Big 3. Which is 0/1 gauge wire from pos of the battery to pos of the alt, neg of the battery to chassis, and chassis to engine block. Its got pics and how to go about doing so here Big 3
 

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Thanks for all the help guys , appereciate it and will let you all know what worked for me when i'm done
 

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0/1 gauge might be overkill for his application. The stock is 8 gauge, I personally would run 4 gauge for a 1k-2k watt system.
 
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