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Discussion Starter #1
MO owners...

I've been in touch with Don Vertrees, VP of sales for JL Audio regarding the possibility of a JL Audio StealthBox solution for the MO.

Here are some of the email exhanges back and forth:

Response to my initial query, which I sent with detailed photographs borrowed from user galleries here on the forum and as much information as I could provide to him about the dynamics of the MO interior:
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Thanks for your very informative letter! We would love to build a Stealthbox for the Murano if there's a reasonably large market for it. We are currently completing a Stealthbox model for the G35 Coupe that would be somewhat similar in design to the Murano in that the enclosure fits primarily under the cargo floor to the driver's side of the spare tire. Our biggest obstacles to doing this development are going to be (1) availablility of a vehicle for pattern making, and (2) making room in our busy development schedule for one more model. Your letter has given me food for thought, and I will be presenting your ideas at our next Product Development Meeting. Please keep in touch, I should know more in another 30 days or so.
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I followed up earlier this month and received this back:
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Hey Keith,
Sorry, no movement on the Murano project, as we have not found a vehicle to do our pattern work from. But we haven't given up yet. Keep in touch...it's very likely to happen, just don't know when...
Thanks,
Don Vertrees
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I think with enough support behind the product (they don't want to put all kinds of money into development for a product that won't sell much...) JL might be motivated to make a StealthBox for the MO. If we can gather support through the forum, that might just be what JL needs to see.

So...... a show of hands? I, for one, would be thrilled with a StealthBox for the MO.
 

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I would definately be interested, as long as it's for a 10W7 since I already own one and am in the market for a smaller box (I have a H.O. Wedge, which takes up most of my trunk)
 

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Are you talking about Bose or Standard?
If Bose, are you thinking about just pulling the wires off the so called sub woofer and moving them to the Stealth box?

Where are they?
Seems like a forum member could drop by and let them make a pattern?


Homer
 

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Tyler_Canada said:
I would definately be interested, as long as it's for a 10W7 since I already own one and am in the market for a smaller box (I have a H.O. Wedge, which takes up most of my trunk)
The 10W7 is rather huge (deep), and the StealthBoxes are all-in-one solutions -- a custom-formed enclosure with a sub that they think is appropriate for that cabinet. They match the dynamics of that particular enclosure with the sub that will perform the best in those parameters, such as how much airspace they can create in the enclosure, and how much mounting depth they have to work with in each particular case. I've seen SteathBoxes for some cars using a 8W1, two 8W3's, one or two 10's in various versions, and some use 12's.

The purpose of the StealthBox is to be exactly that -- stealthy. They're engineered to be installed in hidden openings in vehicles such as under seats, consoles, behind storage panels, under floor panels, etc. I don't think you're going to hide a 10W7 anywhere in the MO no matter where you try to put it. I don't need something that's going to rattle the neighbors' windows when I roll down the street, I want musical quality: clean, tight, accurate bass reproduction. I want it completely hidden and have it not interfere with my ability to use the cargo space, etc.
 

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hfelknor said:
Are you talking about Bose or Standard?
If Bose, are you thinking about just pulling the wires off the so called sub woofer and moving them to the Stealth box?
I figure it really doesn't matter. You're not going to use the existing wires (they're WAY too wimpy... 22 gauge or something like that) for the Bose sub, even if you have it, and moreover you're not going to use the Bose amp. The Bose amp simply does not have the power to drive a "real" subwoofer... the JL subs are going to want anywhere from 125W RMS to 500W RMS or so at a (typically) 4-ohm load, depending on the particular model sub. If you're going to put a sub of this quality in a vehicle, you need to power it appropriately with a decent amp that can provide the clean RMS wattage at a low THD level, and you'll want to use "real" speaker wire like 8 gauge from the amp to the sub.

This isn't meant to be a drop-in replacement for the Bose sub, since the system dynamics are so different. This is meant to be an integral piece of a significant audio upgrade, while keeping a totally factory "clean" look -- i.e. no visible speaker boxes or amps, etc. You wouldn't be able to use the Bose amp, so you'd need a real sub amp anyway. At that point, the rest of the Bose system likely wouldn't be able to keep up with the performance of the sub, so you'd need to upgrade the rest of the system as well with a different/better amp and probably new speakers.


Where are they?
Seems like a forum member could drop by and let them make a pattern?
I will have to find out where thier labs are located and see if they would be agreeable to that idea... the VP made it sound like they wanted a vehicle in-house to test ideas with, but if they could get some measurements and make some templates, perhaps some MO owners that are near the plant could periodically stop by for test fittings or such.
 

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This would be interesting to see.

I put my wifes sub there, and the biggest they will be able to fit will be 8". MAYYYYYBE a 10W0, but certainly not a 10W7, since it will have to face up or down, and the magnet is just too big.

I am thinking about fiberglassing my own box for her, as right now hers is just an ugly wooden box (but its covered, so who cares).
 

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larry1960 made a fiberglass enclosure to house a sub. The post where he mentions it is HERE

I was hoping to see some pics and/or get a little more info from him, but I never heard back after I asked in the forum. Still out there larry1960?

If I had to guess, I think that JL Audio would probably use the empty storage space to the left of the spare tire and fab something up to fit in there, since space around the spare is so tight.
 

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You can count me in as interested too...
 

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Would they remove the spare tire? Or work in the middle like the stock sub. I was under the impression that the stealth boxes were designed to look like the stock carpet, and fit to the side of the trunk.
 

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Once again, Is this for the Standard, Bose or Both?:confused:
 

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Tyler_Canada said:
Would they remove the spare tire? Or work in the middle like the stock sub. I was under the impression that the stealth boxes were designed to look like the stock carpet, and fit to the side of the trunk.
Usually if they can fit it somewhere completely hidden, they do, otherwise they make it as unobtrusive as possible and try to match the carpet.

I would not think they would remove the spare tire -- since they aim to make these boxes so that they don't interfere with the utility of your vehicle at all.
 

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grfg8r said:
Once again, Is this for the Standard, Bose or Both?:confused:
As I explained, it doesn't matter.

This would not be meant as a drop-in replacement for the Bose sub. The Bose factory amp simply could not power this type of subwoofer. You would *need* an aftermarket amp, and along with that you'd probably want to get a PAC adapter or something similar to convert your signals to line-level to feed into an aftermarket amp.

If you have the Bose system, you would take the Bose sub OUT of the vehicle and run new wires to a new amp, and connect the JL sub to the new amp. If you don't have the Bose system, you're in pretty much the same boat -- as you would need to add amp(s) and new wiring.

This is not a plug-n-play kind of thing, this is geared towards people looking to significantly improve thier sound system, and as such, would be an integral piece of the puzzle, but by no means, a solution all-in-and-of-itself. With a true subwoofer performing as one would expect a JL Audio product to perform, the rest of your audio system is going to need some upgrades as well, whether you have Bose or not. The bass would overpower the rest of the system -- if you don't have Bose, that means adding an amplifier for the cabin speakers and probably replacing those speakers -- if you DO have Bose, it means replacing the Bose amp with something aftermarket and more capable, and again, probably replacing the cabin speakers.

Hopefully that clears up some confusion!

:2:

I *do* see some potential for goofiness here though. I don't have the wiring diagram, so I can't verify -- maybe some of the folks out there can help out here.

On the Bose system, the amp is feeding either 5 or 6 channels. I have read both on this forum. One member posted that it was 6 channels, 2 channels dedicated to the subwoofer's dual voice coils. GripperDon posted a picture HERE that says it's a 5-channel digital amp. That part doesn't really matter THAT much, but I *am* curious to know how the head unit sends its signals -- are there only 4 channels out from the head unit with the sub just mirroring those channels (some kind of mixing going on in the Bose amp?), or are there 5 or 6 channels coming out of the head unit (i.e. a dedicated "sub" channel)?

If there are only 4 channels coming out of the head unit, adding an aftermarket sub could get a little sloppy, since you'd basically be stuck splitting your rear channels, for instance, and feeding them into the sub amp and then just setting a low-pass crossover. This is not an ideal solution. It would be much cleaner, and easier to implement, if there was a dedicated sub channel (or two) coming off the head unit. Those of you who have added aftermarket subs and amps, how did you tap into those channels? Before or after the Bose amp? Using a PAC? Splitting the rear channel?
 

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This is there corporate office location from there website.

Mailing Address:
JL Audio, Inc.
10369 North Commerce Pkwy.
Miramar, FL 33025-3962
United States of America


The last time I was in contact with a speaker engineer they worked out of that office. Anyone close to that area?
 

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Not me.
That's on the other side of the state from me.
Over by the Ft Lauderdale, Hollywood, Davie area on the east coast.


This is FAR more than I care to get involved with, anyway.
BOL.

Homer
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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Thanx from both of you. Now, if we can get one of our extreme S.Fla members over there, that would solve another issue.
 

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I'm about 200 miles away myself. If they wanted to try a mobile install R&D I'm up for it, but there has to be some Mo owners in Fast & Furious S.Fla!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: Re: Yo --K

special-k said:


Awesome... thanks.

Looks like there is a dedicated sub channel coming off the head unit on line 12. I wonder if that is a high-level or low-level, and if it can be tapped into for aftermarket eqiupment.
I take back what I previously said. It appears that what I thought was the sub channel is actually the remote amp turn-on. I had previously [incorrectly] assumed that the Bose amp had auto-sensing turn-on when it detected a signal on the input lines. After looked at what jaak posted in a couple threads HERE and HERE, even though the wire/pin numbers don't match, it looks like that's what's going on. Jaak, can you confirm?
 

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looks like it to me.
I think the bose amp has a crossover for sub freqs and amps that to the two coil sub. Interesting how the tweeters are just spliced into the front door circuit.
:rolleyes:
 
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