[SugarRushMurano]

I am completely new in this audio upgrade thing so really need help/opinion from you guys.

I am thinking of adding an amplifier to drive the existing speakers Perhaps in near future add a 10" subwoofer and another amp to drive it.

Several questions:
- Any of you guys succesfully add amplifiers to the stock non bose headunit? I saw some posts about ppl upgrading the BOSE factory ampplifiers. Will it be the same process with mine?

- There are 6 speakers in MO for both bose or non bose system.
Are these speakers indifferent, in terms of wattage/freq range, if it is bose or non bose?

- Does non bose head unit output pre-amp? If not, i have to buy amp that has speaker level input.

- There are 6 speakers in the Murano. are they consist of 4 speakers and 2 tweaters? So do i have to purchase 1 amplifier with 4 channel to drive each speaker and left the tweaters as it is? It is to my understanding that tweaters dont have amp-ed.

Kindly revert...:4:

 

[mgthe3]

You hit the nail on the head with what I would like with my non bose system.

I think to do the sub you will have to either tap into the rear door speakers or do the Pac audio thingy. For the pac it is RCA out to your sub amp.
For the amp to the rest would be assuredly line level...and I havent seen anything to go from the factory plug to amp to factory plug to speakers....or maybe I am missing something.


Jaak posted the pinouts for the rear door speakers for me a while back http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/...id=1584&perpage=15&highlight=pac&pagenumber=2

I have yet to find the time to rig something for my sub.

 

[generator]

I think your best bet is to just get two amps. the first amp should be two channel and will handle the front speakers & tweeters. The second amp should be configurable to three channels. Two channels to drive the rear doors and one channel to drive the sub. Or you can do like I did and seperate the sub onto its own amp. In your case your amps would need speaker level inputs. If you have amps that dont have speaker level inputs then you can get external little boxes that convert speaker to line-level as well. Try to get amps that have adustable crossovers in them. Then you can limit the lower frequencies from banging your door speakers apart and send the heavy lows to your sub. It will take a long time to balance out the levels to your liking but its worth it.

 

[SugarRushMurano]

generators... thanks for the post..

I find it really helpful.
I will see what my options are.
I am visiting an audi shop sometime thie week to get a quote on the setups. I dont need something that is lound. What i need is just a higher quality of audio experience. Stock's sound is just "terrible".

 

[SugarRushMurano]

Are the speakers for the bose and non bose system the same?

In terms of the freq-ranges and ohms?
What is the spec of the speakers (impedance wise?

Thanks

 

[mgthe3]

I think you can find a decent 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers that should be stable to 2 ohms--that would do it. A second amp for just the sub is best. If this Mo of mine wasn't leased I would think about doing crossovers for piezo tweeters up top on the dash and the twin amps I just mentioned.
But, alas, I must take the stock speakers and add just a sub, which actually will sound pretty good.

 

[SugarRushMurano]

OK, so now the only difficulty is the non-bose headunit output not pre-amp

and hence i need to get a converter to make the output of the non bose headunit acceptable to an amplifier.
<mentioned in above posts>

Mgthe, thank you for your posts.
Do you think the stock speakers can handle 50 Watts amplifier output?
Yes, i am going to do what you said: an amp to drive the 4 speakers and probably an extra amp to drive a sub in the near future.

 

[mgthe3]

My current amp I use for my subs accepts either type of input.
50 watts RMS is a bit much I believe for the stock speakers. I would replace them as well if you are planning to drive them without a low frequency cutoff crossover. They may sustain the input if limited to mids and highs.....but would probably not if all of the signal was sent to them...at 50 watts RMS.

 

[SugarRushMurano]

Mgthe... questions for you...

My current amp I use for my subs accepts either type of input.
50 watts RMS is a bit much I believe for the stock speakers. I would replace them as well if you are planning to drive them without a low frequency cutoff crossover. They may sustain the input if limited to mids and highs.....but would probably not if all of the signal was sent to them...at 50 watts RMS.

I am still trying to figure out how to get an aux out from the non bose system to an amp that will accept line-level input. Any splicing?
I know PAC-OEM1 adapter (from pac-audio) can be used to tap into the bose conector going to the oem subs.
But i dont have the bose sub.

For the factory speaker, what amp should i get than? (if 50 watt is too much? Any suggestion?
I am not thinking of upgrading the speaker.

 

[mgthe3]

I am researching for you....
http://www.scosche.com/scosche/connectors/nissanback.asp
looks promising for the amp connector.

http://shop3.outpost.com/product/3948678

This amp has two different inputs like mine, is stout, and has a highpass filter.

I will look around some more.

I plan on just splicing into my rear door speaker leads possibly under the front door sills. I will run some hefty speaker wire to the back and wire into my sub amp. Power will come from the rear 12V outlet with possibly some caps for a little kick. I may use the Tow lead for the remote turn on.

 

[generator]

Power will come from the rear 12V outlet with possibly some caps for a little kick. I may use the Tow lead for the remote turn on. [/B]

That remote outlet does not have the current capacity for an amp, especially a sub amp. A 200 watt home stereo can operate on a zip cord because the voltage is much higher. A 200 watt car amp must try to generate the same power output with only a twelve volt input. The voltage to current ratio then dramatically changes and more current must rush into a car amp to get the same job done. This is why you may get that dimming headlight scenario when you run a bigger amp. I might have over-simpified it but to make a long story short your sub amp will be gasping for air.

The remote lead is another thing though and you could catch that from the tow hitch with no problem.

 

[mgthe3]

I ran the exact same setup in my Venture with a few caps and it worked great. I believe my nephew and his friends said, "Wow, it really hits hard!"
If it causes the lights to dim, I will run a fat cable back there directly from the bat under the Mo, but I hate doing that, it would require me to drill.....and this is a lease.

 

[Tyler_Canada]

If the lights dim, it won't be fixed by running a bigger wire... the only thing that might do is make them dim more, by allowing the amp to suck more current.

BTW, I ran a 4 guage wire from the battery to the trunk without drilling or any other permanent changes.

 

[jaak]

Don't forget the spare alternator!

 

[mgthe3]

lol jaak

I believe he meant the dash lights dimming on beats in which case the bat connection would fix that. I never had that problem with my Venture and I am sure they did not gauge the wires better than Nissan. I don't blast my subs, and I'm not in a competition, maybe when I get it in I will let Kris be the judge of it and get him to post what he heard.


How did you sneak a fat wire from the bottom up without drilling? Through an existing grommet?

 

[mgthe3]

OMG

I had to post this here for the perfectionists in sound quality.
http://www.machinadynamica.com/index.html

An amp on a vibration dampner?

Alrighty then.

 

[hfelknor]

A bottle of Pebbles for 100 smackers?


um, sure.


Homer


PS I have a box of mud (Well actually it is dirt, but it comes complete with instructions) that paramatizes rise times of fast attack musical waves.
This makes your musical CDs perform better than the original sound.
(Larger boxes of Mud are now being sold to the bands to increase the parameters of rise time phenonoma at the source.)

Only $40.
Two for $75 (Recommended for rooms over 150 Sq ft)

H