So Nissan quoted me $1200 for the throttle body. It's under $200 on Amazon. SMH
Thanks for the update. Glad to hear the issue was resolved.Hi - Yes, it was resolved - $700.00 later.
Of course when it comes to programming, they said "but the tech will need to watch it, so they can't go and work on another car" - as soon as they said that I knew damn well that of course they will work on another car.
So what they said the throttle chamber was very dirty and they applied the TSB NTB19-045B BCM need to be reprogrammed. Clean the throttle chamber, perform ECM update and idle relearn. Alpha ratio is on the spec.
I wish I had the time because I'm certain I could have done this myself.
And while I was there they tried to sell me on another car, so I did look at the Nissan Rogue 2023; nice SUV and fits in my price budget BUT they only offered me $10k for my 2015 SL AWD with 128k KM on it while they are going for 2x - 2.5x locally.
I know - that made no sense to me at all. But the tech said that it was all related... still don't understand as he didn't seem to want to go into a lot of detail but at least I've got a working car.Thanks for the update. Glad to hear the issue was resolved.
Interesting how the issue was expected to be related to battery/alternator and ended up being dirty throttle body. I learnt something new.
I honestly don't trust them either, but when I spoke with CT they said $150 and if it doesn't fix it I'll still have to take it to the dealer as they suspected an electrical issue so I was trying to decide what to do. The only other reason why I thought it could be electrical is that we've seen mice in the garage and I thought perhaps one had gotten up there and chewed on wiring.Sounds a little fishy to me. I went through two throttle bodies with my 2003, and there was never any clicking involved. Nissan replaced one under warranty, and the other I bought and replaced myself and never had to reprogram anything, and it ran great for 5-6 years after that.
Where yours is much newer, perhaps things have changed and the throttle body can click when failng. I'm not quite buying it. Unless there was info you didn't mention, it sounded like the engine wouldn't turn over, so all your son was getting was clicking. I don't see how a dirty throttle body could cause the clicking. The engine should still fire up, but it may run rough.
In any case, I hope whatever they did solved the problem for good.
I'm wondering if the part they will use is made of gold!Attached is the relevant TSB for the resolution (ECM reprogram) in case anyone else runs into this problem. Chasing problems where the root cause requires reprogramming a control module can be a nightmare.
That dealership is way overcharging for simple throttle body replacement.
Have you checked the battery connections to make sure everything's clean and tight? Your previous post indicated normal battery voltage, but the car was basically dead (e.g. no lights etc) and now a boost will get the engine started (after "several attempts"). I'd also check the fusible link connection. If it was just a bad starter you should still have power to the rest of the car.So I boosted the car, took several attempts but it did start.
The meter said 14.61v while the car is running.
So at this point it looks like the starter. Could it be be anything else?
Update: turned the car off, no loss of power to lights or anything else and it started without issues.
Hi - Sorry for the late reply.Have you checked the battery connections to make sure everything's clean and tight? Your previous post indicated normal battery voltage, but the car was basically dead (e.g. no lights etc) and now a boost will get the engine started (after "several attempts"). I'd also check the fusible link connection. If it was just a bad starter you should still have power to the rest of the car.