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Issues again - 2015 Murano SL AWD Not Starting

2065 Views 31 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  mos2009murano
Hey Everyone - Another issue I hope you might be able to help with.

So I'm not near my car right now, in fact, am away on business so can't do anything at the moment other than remotely troubleshoot with him.

My son is driving my car and hasn't had any problems for the last 4-6 weeks -- including earlier today.

He was on his way to school, and the car will not start. Luckily the car was in the garage, so no need to tow it right now.

The battery was replaced about 8 weeks ago as the old battery had a dead cell (according to the CanadianTire technician) and was replaced under warranty.

Son has been driving the car without any issues till now, and before I left on business it was working also.

I read on a Google search that it could be an alternator or starter.

If it was the alternator wouldn't everything be "black" when you try to start the car (i.e., dead battery)? All the electronics/lights turn on when he pushes the brake and hits the start button, but of course, the car just won't start.

How can you troubleshoot the alternator or starter? I don't want him to try to boost it and take it to school only to fail then we've got to pay to tow it. The battery has a warranty, but I don't want to tow it to CT because they charge way too much if they find something else wrong and I have a mechanic that I use that will allow me to buy my own parts and change it so I'd rather tow it there instead-but I need to know what the problem could be so I can buy the parts.

Any ideas? Troubleshooting steps?

Thanks!

M

Quick update - Son spoke to his friend who is a mechanic and he thinks its probably the starter. We'll try to boost it first, but I'll order the starter off of Amazon. But would still appreciate any troubleshooting steps.
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So Nissan quoted me $1200 for the throttle body. It's under $200 on Amazon. SMH
Hi - Yes, it was resolved - $700.00 later.

Of course when it comes to programming, they said "but the tech will need to watch it, so they can't go and work on another car" - as soon as they said that I knew damn well that of course they will work on another car.

So what they said the throttle chamber was very dirty and they applied the TSB NTB19-045B BCM need to be reprogrammed. Clean the throttle chamber, perform ECM update and idle relearn. Alpha ratio is on the spec.

I wish I had the time because I'm certain I could have done this myself.

And while I was there they tried to sell me on another car, so I did look at the Nissan Rogue 2023; nice SUV and fits in my price budget BUT they only offered me $10k for my 2015 SL AWD with 128k KM on it while they are going for 2x - 2.5x locally.
Thanks for the update. Glad to hear the issue was resolved.

Interesting how the issue was expected to be related to battery/alternator and ended up being dirty throttle body. I learnt something new.
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They also mentioned that if the check engine light comes on again, I'd have to change the throttle body. They wanted $1500.00 (including labour) to change it (3 hours labor @ 160/hr) while the throttle body on Amazon is under $200.00.
Thanks for the update. Glad to hear the issue was resolved.

Interesting how the issue was expected to be related to battery/alternator and ended up being dirty throttle body. I learnt something new.
I know - that made no sense to me at all. But the tech said that it was all related... still don't understand as he didn't seem to want to go into a lot of detail but at least I've got a working car.
Sounds a little fishy to me. I went through two throttle bodies with my 2003, and there was never any clicking involved. Nissan replaced one under warranty, and the other I bought and replaced myself and never had to reprogram anything, and it ran great for 5-6 years after that.

Where yours is much newer, perhaps things have changed and the throttle body can click when failng. I'm not quite buying it. Unless there was info you didn't mention, it sounded like the engine wouldn't turn over, so all your son was getting was clicking. I don't see how a dirty throttle body could cause the clicking. The engine should still fire up, but it may run rough.

In any case, I hope whatever they did solved the problem for good.
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Sounds a little fishy to me. I went through two throttle bodies with my 2003, and there was never any clicking involved. Nissan replaced one under warranty, and the other I bought and replaced myself and never had to reprogram anything, and it ran great for 5-6 years after that.

Where yours is much newer, perhaps things have changed and the throttle body can click when failng. I'm not quite buying it. Unless there was info you didn't mention, it sounded like the engine wouldn't turn over, so all your son was getting was clicking. I don't see how a dirty throttle body could cause the clicking. The engine should still fire up, but it may run rough.

In any case, I hope whatever they did solved the problem for good.
I honestly don't trust them either, but when I spoke with CT they said $150 and if it doesn't fix it I'll still have to take it to the dealer as they suspected an electrical issue so I was trying to decide what to do. The only other reason why I thought it could be electrical is that we've seen mice in the garage and I thought perhaps one had gotten up there and chewed on wiring.

The engine wasn't turning over at all - when I got home and tried it (pushing the brake and hitting the start button) absolutely nothing happened.

Now that I've got an idea of what else to look for, I checked out videos on YT about cleaning the throttle and it's weekend work, so simple. The only thing I'm unsure about is the ECU, but one thing at a time.
Attached is the relevant TSB for the resolution (ECM reprogram) in case anyone else runs into this problem. Chasing problems where the root cause requires reprogramming a control module can be a nightmare.

That dealership is way overcharging for simple throttle body replacement.

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Attached is the relevant TSB for the resolution (ECM reprogram) in case anyone else runs into this problem. Chasing problems where the root cause requires reprogramming a control module can be a nightmare.

That dealership is way overcharging for simple throttle body replacement.
I'm wondering if the part they will use is made of gold!

Really disappointed by dealerships, but I get it they are in it for the money and nothing else.
Well, I'm back and my car died. Again.

Used my multimeter and checked the battery and it reads 12.61v.

It's 5am so am not gonna try to boost it right now but this feels like it's the starter but not sure.

There is absolutely no lights turning on at all and trying to start it nothing happens.

Edit: it does not crank at all. No lights on in the car when you open the door, all displays dead. Headlights do not turn on either when you try to do it manually.

Don't really want to take it to the dealer again... ideas???
So I boosted the car, took several attempts but it did start.

The meter said 14.61v while the car is running.

So at this point it looks like the starter. Could it be be anything else?

Update: turned the car off, no loss of power to lights or anything else and it started without issues.
So I boosted the car, took several attempts but it did start.

The meter said 14.61v while the car is running.

So at this point it looks like the starter. Could it be be anything else?

Update: turned the car off, no loss of power to lights or anything else and it started without issues.
Have you checked the battery connections to make sure everything's clean and tight? Your previous post indicated normal battery voltage, but the car was basically dead (e.g. no lights etc) and now a boost will get the engine started (after "several attempts"). I'd also check the fusible link connection. If it was just a bad starter you should still have power to the rest of the car.
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Have you checked the battery connections to make sure everything's clean and tight? Your previous post indicated normal battery voltage, but the car was basically dead (e.g. no lights etc) and now a boost will get the engine started (after "several attempts"). I'd also check the fusible link connection. If it was just a bad starter you should still have power to the rest of the car.
Hi - Sorry for the late reply.

Yes, I checked the battery connections.

The car dying has happened a few times, something somewhere is just no getting power to where it needs to be.

As you suggested, it probably isn't a bad starter otherwise it would not turn over at when trying to boost it. There are only two after market additions to the car - one is a dashcam that I hard wired in; I'm going to remove that and use the cigarette outlet instead and the other is aftermarket "LED" lights -- that's the only other thing I can think of otherwise everything else is stock.

I've had it "die" a few times since and picked up a Noco GB40 since my son won't be around all the time to help me out.

I really want to figure this out but the dealership will soak me but I just may have to go that route.

Very frustrating and I can't seem to find any pattern to when it's happening -- entirely random.
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