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Discussion Starter #1
I am hearing a single knock sound every time the transmission gets engaged or disengaged or right after I press the accelerator, sometimes I hear it when I slowly come to a stop right when the transmission get disengaged, sounds like is coming from the front area maybe transfer case ? Or axles ?

Front shocks are bit weak (not that bad) ... not sure if had anything to do with this...

Do you have any input on this?
 

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How many miles are on your Murano?

Have you checked the engine mounts?

They're a somewhat common item to replace when they're as old as yours...
 

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2011 Nissan Murano AWD
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Agree. Sounds like symptoms of a bad motor mount. Hold the brakes and shift the car from D to R and back a couple of times and listen for the noise while watching the engine for excessive movement. If it's knocking when you shift from R to D then take a close look at the front mount. The 1st generation has the through-bolt style of mount so you should be able to get a look at the condition of the rubber bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I checked today the mounts, I don't see any excessive movement when shifting from R to D, the sounds seems to come from under the front side of the car. Car is 07 with 112K miles. As I said before sound seems to be present when transmission engages / disengages.
 

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Have you checked the transfer case fluid level?

If not, have it checked ASAP. It only holds 5/8 pint (a little more than a cup) of fluid, so if there has been slow weeping over the 112k miles it may be nearly out...

Do you see any weeping of fluid around the transfer case area?
 

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When you stop fully and then accelerate normally, do you hear that same knock? And does the noise sound as though something hard is impacting something else that's hard and bottoming out? While driving slowly, push the gas pedal down a bit and then let off a bit and depress the pedal again a bit, etc... Try to hard-feather the gas pedal in a way that would try to make the drivetrain float in between engaged and disengaged.

You may have two or more bad motor mounts. Maybe even the tranny mount is loose or broken. Unless you have another person who can help you, it's very difficult to engage/disengage shifter positions while seeing what the engine is doing under the hood. It's really hard to see what kind of movement/twisting is taking place while in the driver's seat. I took a camera w/tripod and positioned in looking at the engine compartment, then got inside and made various shift changes, then played back the video footage and noticed there was way too much unwanted movement to the engine/tranny. That's why I replaced all of my motor mounts. I could hear a "clunk-rap-thud" sound when shifting and when accelerating normally from a full stop. Then when coming to a stop at the bottom of a small hill, the noise would clunk again, as though the engine was dropping forward against something.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the reply, the sound is not present when I suddenly stop or accelerate. It clearly only when the transmission gets disengaged or engaged . I can feel is that moment when the rpms drop to idle or vice versa.

I already checked the mounts they seem fine.
 

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I would check the transmission mount to ensure it's tight and intact. Maybe others can chime in about the possibility of it being the torque converter having issues, or maybe a bad carrier bearing that's allowing the driveshaft to torque laterally and make that knocking sound when initially placed under a load.
 

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I wonder if a loose transmisson shifter linkage could cause such a noise. Perhaps the linkage is loose and the tranny is only being partially placed into the selected shifter position intially, and then suddenly it pops in fully and creates that knock. How loud is the knock? Could you take a videocam and place it under the car, pointing at various places, then make some shift changes? Playing back the video may reveal where the sound is the loudest, which might help you figure out what's causing it.
 

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Is the car AWD?
 

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I must've confused some other members' cars because I thought Corske's was an AWD. But in checking his posts, I don't see where that was ever stated. Just seeing 2007 S.

EDIT: Maybe it's just a different angle or closer shot, but in our driver's lower control arm bushing pics, the area around mine seems to have more things attached and looks beefier to maybe accomodate the TC, whereas his looks pretty light and empty.
 

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Your bushing is SHOT. If anything else looks like that, replace it as well.
 

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If you're talking about Corske's, he already knows that bushing is gone. If referring to mine, that's just the skim coat over the bushing that's peeling off. The repair beneath it is still fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The car is AWD . I replaced the control arms already so I have new bushings, I replaced the front shocks with KYB stuff.

Today I checked transfer case oil, was almost empty and very dark, I refilled with the required oil as per service manual. Knocking sound is still there.

By the way the fill plug and drain plug had some kind of gasket attached to it at the bottom of the plug that fell apart (see pic), I am thinking that now might slowly leak, the manual doesn’t mention anything about bolts and gaskets, should I order new bolts, will they have a gasket?
C331ACA1-E7D7-441F-BDE7-1506081D899C.jpeg

I will do a video soon about the knock.
 

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That rubbery black sealant is normal to find on the fill and drain plugs.

The service manual recommends using a thread sealant for the plugs. I used Permatex 59214 successfully when I serviced my '03 transfer case.

52233



52232
 

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Today I checked transfer case oil, was almost empty and very dark, I refilled with the required oil as per service manual. Knocking sound is still there.
About how much came out?

Did you inspect it for metal flakes?

Are there any signs of weeping around the gasket?

The transfer case does not consume oil. If less the a 5/8th of a pint (a little over a cup) came out, it's either leaking or wasn't filled properly at some point during manufacture or a prior transfer case service...
 

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If the transfer case oil was really low then that could result in accelerated wear of the pinion gears.

Twist the propeller shaft that connects the transfer case and rear differential back and forth. Is there excessive play? Does it make a noise? Check the u-joints on the shaft while you're under the car while you're at it (front and back) as well as the carrier bearing (yank up and down and side to side on the shaft and see if excessive movement or noise).

As MuranoSL2003 said, the "gasket" is really just RTV. In lieu of that, you can use teflon plumber's tape on the threads.
 
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A couple wraps of white telfon is all it takes.

A handycam placed under the car, pointing at key areas while shifting can save a lot of time troubleshooting and remove some of the guesswork... :) Did the noise start right after replacing that control arm bushing or after changing out the struts? Probably unlikely a strut tower or the strut itself that's the culprit because it doesn't sound like the knock happens when in motion. But, since you had to dismantle a lot things to replace some parts recently, perhaps you have a loose caliper or caliper bracket that's moving just enough to make a knock once the tranny is engaged and the CV axle torques. Might want to double check a few things.

Actually, I take that back... unless you're pushing on the brake pedal hard when parked and shifting, a bad/loose strut tower component could potentially create a slight noise as the tranny is engaged and tries to drive the wheels. If only applying light-to-moderate pedal pressure, the wheel's suspension could "flex" under load. Maybe apply hard pressure to the brake pedal when shifting to see if the noise goes away. That will also help to see if the caliper/bracket is the problem, particularly when going from P to D to N to R. The axle will try to move the brake parts both ways.

EDIT: Actually, you might drive MO, stop and place her in park (keep the brake applied) then apply the emergency brake fully and turn off the car. Restart, leave the emergency brake on, depress the brake pedal, then shift and see if the knock is still there. The emergency brake being engaged should help to prevent MO from moving when shifting, which should keep the CV axles "slacked" so that when you do shift, you might reveal a louder noise than before since the axle has to travel further once placed under a load. The point is, don't stop, place MO in P and let the car roll forward/backward before setting the emergency brake. You want to prevent the tranny/CV axles from coming to rest one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A couple wraps of white telfon is all it takes.

A handycam placed under the car, pointing at key areas while shifting can save a lot of time troubleshooting and remove some of the guesswork... :) Did the noise start right after replacing that control arm bushing or after changing out the struts? Probably unlikely a strut tower or the strut itself that's the culprit because it doesn't sound like the knock happens when in motion. But, since you had to dismantle a lot things to replace some parts recently, perhaps you have a loose caliper or caliper bracket that's moving just enough to make a knock once the tranny is engaged and the CV axle torques. Might want to double check a few things.

Actually, I take that back... unless you're pushing on the brake pedal hard when parked and shifting, a bad/loose strut tower component could potentially create a slight noise as the tranny is engaged and tries to drive the wheels. If only applying light-to-moderate pedal pressure, the wheel's suspension could "flex" under load. Maybe apply hard pressure to the brake pedal when shifting to see if the noise goes away. That will also help to see if the caliper/bracket is the problem, particularly when going from P to D to N to R. The axle will try to move the brake parts both ways.

EDIT: Actually, you might drive MO, stop and place her in park (keep the brake applied) then apply the emergency brake fully and turn off the car. Restart, leave the emergency brake on, then shift and see if the knock is still there. The emergency brake being engaged should help to prevent MO from moving when shifting, which should keep the CV axles "slacked" so that when you do shift, you might reveal a louder noise than before since the axle has to travel further once placed under a load.
The sound was there since first day, it didn’t really bothered me at that time but now after fixing a lot of stuff on the car it starts bothering me.

I will do a video on the sound soon.
 
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