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Discussion Starter #21
BTW, can you feel the knock in the steering wheel or shifter or brake pedal or floorboard? If you haven't felt for it, maybe give it a try.
NoI don’t feel it in the things you mentioned but today I was playing with the shifter switching from R to D and I kinda felt a little jerk along with the knock sound... very weird, didn’t had a chance to go underneath yet for a video raining like crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So i made a video with the sound.
Also I drained the transfer case fluid that I just refilled last week, very surprised to find very dark color after just a week and a lot of shiny metal pieces floating in (see pic) .
52248


Knock sound :
 

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So i made a video with the sound.
Also I drained the transfer case fluid that I just refilled last week, very surprised to find very dark color after just a week and a lot of shiny metal pieces floating in (see pic) .
Two questions:

1. Can you explain exactly what you were doing during the video? It seemed that you were switching between gears with the car standing still, but just confirm what you and the car were doing.

2. The pic of the gear oil showed that there was approx 4 oz. of fluid in the container--is that the total amount of fluid that you drained from the transfer case or is that just a sample? The oil is way too dark and there is too much metal for just a week of normal driving.
 

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Are you messing with the gas pedal, or is your engine (or something else) making that "gasping for breath" sound after/during shifting? I don't know if you've tried placing your recording device further back, then placing it to the extreme front-right and then extreme front-left, etc., to try to pinpoint in playing everything back exactly where the sound is the loudest. If you've done that (or if you already figured out that the sound is strongest right there) then great. :)

In the mid-lower-like-right of your video...that brown-looking thing that seems like it's sticking then releasing in time with the clunking...is that a CV axle? Refer to attachment.

EDIT: It kind of looks like the CV axle is up and behind it, but whatever that brown-ish thing is, it appears to be the source of the noise. Any chance you can take a closer video of that area and do your shifting thing again? Maybe it's just an illusion that it's sticking/popping. I'm not trying to make you jump through hoops, but I figured out a long time ago that when taking video, it's best if you leave a door open and talk loudly to describe what you're doing. When I do such recordings, I'll yell "park to reverse!" or "neutral to drive!" so that when I play back the video, I know exactly what's happening when doing a certain thing. :)

EDIT: I'm pretty sure that's a CV axle. Maybe you have a busted/loose retaining ring or bad bearing. With the car parked, I would take a red or green marker (or a small piece of white tape) and make a line on that silver clamp that I think holds the CV boot on. Once you do your shifting, you'll be able to tell by that line or piece of tape how much that axle is twisting and if it seems to be a violent snap/jarring motion. It could be that the CVT is making the axle snap like that, and that it's not an actual problem with the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Two questions:

1. Can you explain exactly what you were doing during the video? It seemed that you were switching between gears with the car standing still, but just confirm what you and the car were doing.

2. The pic of the gear oil showed that there was approx 4 oz. of fluid in the container--is that the total amount of fluid that you drained from the transfer case or is that just a sample? The oil is way too dark and there is too much metal for just a week of normal driving.
1. I was just shifting from R to D and D to R couple of times, all this time car was on jack stands.

2. Well it was the right amount, 5/8 pint or 1 cup , but I am concerned why after a week color is so dark...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Are you messing with the gas pedal, or is your engine (or something else) making that "gasping for breath" sound after/during shifting? I don't know if you've tried placing your recording device further back, then placing it to the extreme front-right and then extreme front-left, etc., to try to pinpoint in playing everything back exactly where the sound is the loudest. If you've done that (or if you already figured out that the sound is strongest right there) then great. :)

In the mid-lower-like-right of your video...that brown-looking thing that seems like it's sticking then releasing in time with the clunking...is that a CV axle? Refer to attachment.

EDIT: It kind of looks like the CV axle is up and behind it, but whatever that brown-ish thing is, it appears to be the source of the noise. Any chance you can take a closer video of that area and do your shifting thing again? Maybe it's just an illusion that it's sticking/popping. I'm not trying to make you jump through hoops, but I figured out a long time ago that when taking video, it's best if you leave a door open and talk loudly to describe what you're doing. When I do such recordings, I'll yell "park to reverse!" or "neutral to drive!" so that when I play back the video, I know exactly what's happening when doing a certain thing. :)

EDIT: I'm pretty sure that's a CV axle. Maybe you have a busted/loose retaining ring or bad bearing. With the car parked, I would take a red or green marker (or a small piece of white tape) and make a line on that silver clamp that I think holds the CV boot on. Once you do your shifting, you'll be able to tell by that line or piece of tape how much that axle is twisting and if it seems to be a violent snap/jarring motion. It could be that the CVT is making the axle snap like that, and that it's not an actual problem with the axle.
The brownish thing you see is indeed the CV axle , I forgot to mention the car was on jacks all this time so there is no change in sound when transmission engages regardless of on jacks or not.
 

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Since there's no weight on the suspension and the wheels/axles can move more freely since MO's on stands, maybe that axle action is normal. If I get a chance tomorrow or Monday,, I'll do a video of mine to see how it compares to yours. You're engine seems to be making some bizarrre sounds; it doesn't sound like a smooth idle. Is it just the video that's making it seem that way? It seems when you shift and everything is under a load, the engine starts wheezing. But I'll tell you, that noise sounds very much the same as mine when I had a busted motor mount. I actually still have a bad front mount from a month or two ago that I haven't bothered fixing because MO is driving fine. I'm not hearing that thud noise right now though...unless I'm going deaf. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Actually the engine has a really really smooth idle, you barely hear it from outside. Might be the camera mic adjusting the sound levels.
 

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The noise does sound like a broken motor mount, but it could be something else. Corske, what you really need to do is the same thing in the video except have someone else in the car shifting gears while you go underneath and pinpoint exactly what is making that noise.
 

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The noise does sound like a broken motor mount, but it could be something else. Corske, what you really need to do is the same thing in the video except have someone else in the car shifting gears while you go underneath and pinpoint exactly what is making that noise.
This. The rear mount can also be diagnosed by turning the wheels hard right and looking through the left wheelwell with a flashlight.

Front and side mounts are harder to see.

The front and right mounts tend to cause clunks over bumps and rough roads. If you accelerate over the same bumps and the noise goes away, its bad mounts.

Trans mount can clunk and look fine, but it isnt. A new one, even one of the cheap Chinese ones, does wonders.

My Murano has 292K miles, the side mounts have been replaced once and the front mount twice. The rear one has been busted forever but too much work to replace. All the other ones are easy enough.
 

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Mine does the same thing from D to R, probably as a result of torque being applied one way and then the other...there's more throw. I placed a camera under the car about a year ago because the "jerk" and accompanying "clunk" seemed a little excessive. The video showed the forward driveshaft was clunking/snapping where it mates to the transfer case's yolk (I think that's what it's called...) Refer to pics. I don't seem to recall it ever making that noise when shifting from P to R, or P to D, etc. I think it's just D to R and R to D, and I forget what I was doing back then that made me really notice that jerk/clunk. I think it had something to do with the exhaust and something flexing... In any case, if it still happens, I don't even feel or hear it anymore.
 

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I didn't feel like breaking out the car ramps or jacks, so I just tossed my Handycam under the car in two areas facing forward, and I couldn't really tell what I was aiming at. I think your MO sounds better than mine. From above, I can barely hear it running. Underneath...sounds like crap. :)

Anyway...the D to R and R to D shifting is what causes the loud clunking and "violent" jerk/snap of the TC yolk. Maybe it's normal, or maybe that one front motor mount is the cause. Last time, I had two that were bad. Maybe this is what just one looks/sounds like.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hmm... I don’t know what to say but yeah that knock is definitely present when shifting from D to R and R to D, I don’t know what to believe... it might be normal or maybe not. But hey, the car drives fine, smooth acceleration, no slipping, nothing sounds that bad like is going to break soon . However I am concerned about the transfer case, looks like was driven with little to nothing amount of fluid for at least 10,000 miles and seeing many metal pieces in the fluid.
 

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Finding metal shavings in your fluids is never good (especially when that fluid was just changed) but it might not be anything overly serious. I would say the smart/brave thing to do (if you haven't already done so) is manually engage AWD and go very slow on a straight road to see how everything sounds. If you live in a place that gets snow, you're better off trying out your system now than waiting for a snowstorm to discover your TC is crap and might leave you stranded. Out of the five transfer cases that were replaced on my MO (I mistakenly said seven in one of my videos) I believe only one was actually bad. The rest were replaced as part of Nissan's protocal when a CVT fails. The one that failed did so a few months after I manually engaged AWD and went slow. It was making horrible grinding noises. Up to that point, I think it had been something like three years driving in SoCal weather (with no snow) and I wanted to see how the AWD sounded. If you live in a snow-free area, I think it's important to engage AWD a few times a year (on a straight road, preferably during a rainy day) to keep all the moving parts lubricated.

I'm planning to replace that front motor mount soon, to see if that reduces the amount of clunkiness when shifting R-D and D-R. I really don't hear or feel a clunk when backing out of anywhere and then placing it in D. I think the act of being parked and not moving when continually shifting is simply makiing the noise worse and more noticable.
 

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Hmm... I don’t know what to say but yeah that knock is definitely present when shifting from D to R and R to D, I don’t know what to believe... it might be normal or maybe not. But hey, the car drives fine, smooth acceleration, no slipping, nothing sounds that bad like is going to break soon . However I am concerned about the transfer case, looks like was driven with little to nothing amount of fluid for at least 10,000 miles and seeing many metal pieces in the fluid.
Did you go underneath the car while someone else shifted gears to find out where the noise was coming from?

On the dirty gear oil--My guess is that sludge (along with metal shavings) accumulated inside the transfer case and when you changed the gear oil, the detergents in the new oil broke all that sludge down and that's what you found when you drained the transfer case again. I would suggest doing at least one or two more drain/refills spaced a week apart as your did before until the fluid comes out clear after a week of driving.
 

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If you live in a snow-free area, I think it's important to engage AWD a few times a year (on a straight road, preferably during a rainy day) to keep all the moving parts lubricated.
It's my understanding that the gears in the transfer case are always engaged and turning (thus being lubricated.)

When AWD is engaged either automatically or manually, a magnetic clutch at the rear differential engages the propeller shaft to turn the rear differential gears.

@I need coffee would know for sure...
 

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It's my understanding that the gears in the transfer case are always engaged and turning (thus being lubricated.)

When AWD is engaged either automatically or manually, a magnetic clutch at the rear differential engages the propeller to turn the rear differential gears.

@I need coffee would know for sure...
Yeah, if the car is moving then the transfer case gears are turning.
 

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Yeah, if the car is moving then the transfer case gears are turning.
I didn't know that. Whenever AWD would kick in, I'd suddenly feel vibrations and hear added noise, and along with the rear diff area, it felt and sounded like it was coming from just forward of the shifter knob, so I always thought it was the TC making the added noise, which is why I thought the TC wasn't engaging unless AWD kicked on. That, and coupled with my manually turning on AWD all those years ago, hearing grinding noises, and then a few months later Nissan said my TC failed, I took that to mean the TC wasn't active unless in AWD mode.
 

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This is why you want to check the transfer case fluid level to be sure it's always totally full if there's any sign of seeping. A slow seeping at the gasket interface, which appears to be fairly common, can drain the tiny 5/8 pint capacity over time, thus subjecting the gears to excessive friction which will eventually destroy the transfer case.
 
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This is why you want to check the transfer case fluid level to be sure it's always totally full if there's any sign of seeping. A slow seeping at the gasket interface, which appears to be fairly common, can drain the tiny 5/8 pint capacity over time, thus subjecting the gears to excessive friction which will eventually destroy the transfer case.
Sounds like a good project for a rainy day, which is tomorrow. Will probably do the rear diff, too, since it's been about 150K miles since I replaced that oil and TC's. It actually wasn't intentional. At least a few times a year for the past three years, I keep planning to get rid of MO because I feel I've had her long enough, but then she just keeps going and going without any major issues, so I give her another few months, then another few, etc. Suddenly, a few years have gone by and I've put over 100,000 miles on her and it's just not registering to do those components because why bother if I'm just giving her away soon? A very bizarre cycle of really planning to let go, but then she runs like the Energizer Bunny, so I kind of just want to wait to see when/if she'll quit... :) Maybe I'll dive into my big box of new parts that I've held onto for years and just get some stuff done.
 
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