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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm fairly new to the site and had an engine related question. My wife has always loved her Murano but recently upon acceleration, the engine has been making a clicking or valve rattling sound at 1200rpm - 1400rpm. It only happens at 1200rpm - 1400rpm, after that nothing. At idle there is no clicking/rattling sound and at high RPM or under load their is no clicking/rattling. It only happens on light acceleration when feathering the throttle. When I floor it from a stop, there is no clicking/rattling at all. Any and all suggesstions would be helpful???

I think it may be the fuel injection dampers or maybe the knock sensors???? But it only happens at light throttle from 1200rpm - 1400rpm. Weird....please help???
 

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tubbedz-

Welcome to the forum!

I think you may have nailed it - fuel damper. The MO has two (2) fuel dampers.

Here is a link that discusses the problem in detail: Engine sounding a bit loud.

-njjoe
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
njjoe said:
tubbedz-

Welcome to the forum!

I think you may have nailed it - fuel damper. The MO has two (2) fuel dampers.

Here is a link that discusses the problem in detail: Engine sounding a bit loud.

-njjoe
Thanks njjoe

I thought it was the fuel dampers. I read the thread you suggested. When briefly accellerating from a stop, my Wife's Murano sounds like my old Chevrolet small block with it's valves loose and not adjusted. I hope this is the fix as the dampers are about $100 - $140 each and difficult to get to!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found another Post from 2007 with the same issue that I am experiencing. See thread below.

http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9125&highlight=arvzmurano

The same clicking/rattling sound happens to my wife's Murano at 1200rpm on light acceleration. It doesn't click/rattle at 1200rpm in Park. Also it does not click/rattle under full throttle hard acceleration.

Anyone with a suggestion???
Someone must have gone through this also????
 

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tubbedz-

A sure-fire way of determining if the problem is with the dampers is to touch each one as the car is making the noise. If the vibration coincides with the noise then it is the damper.

If it is a damper you need to only replace one, not both.

-njjoe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
njjoe said:
tubbedz-

A sure-fire way of determining if the problem is with the dampers is to touch each one as the car is making the noise. If the vibration coincides with the noise then it is the damper.

If it is a damper you need to only replace one, not both.

-njjoe
njjoe

I narrowed the problem down and it is not the fuel injection dampers.

With the parking brake on, I had the wife start the car. With her left foot on the brake and her right foot on the gas, I had her depress the gas pedal until 1500rpm. In Park, the car revved up smoothly with no rattle. Next, I told her to put it in Drive and again slowly depress the gas until 1500rpm. Now in gear, and with a load on the engine, the engine made the loud rattling sound. With the hood open, and with both hands holding the dampers, an awful mechanical clanking sound was coming from the front valve cover. The valve cover closest to the radiator. It sounded like a very loose rocker arm that made clunking sounds under engine load.

Now the next thing that ran through my mind was.....does this engine have an adjustable valvetrain??? Should I check valve lash???? Did a lifter collapse? Did the camshaft round a lobe? Did the timing chain tensioner loose it's tension??? Help!!!!!

Any hardcore Nissan engine guys want to take a guess on what's wrong as I'm not sure what's going on ?????

This weekend I will pull the front valve cover off and take a deeper look.
 

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tubbedz-

Fortunately, the noise is coming from the front bank. I would hate to have to work on the rear bank.

Let us know what you find when you lift the cover.

-njjoe
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update.....

I went to see my friend, who is a Mechanic at Honda and we hooked a scanner to my Murano. Apparently, the noise is pinging or spark knock. In Park, while revving, the timing advanced smoothly from 17'degrees and up. In Drive, while revving, the timing was eratic and flashed up real quick to 43'degrees. This was too much advance too fast, creating the pinging or spark knock. My friend suggested to check on the Nov 17, 2003 recall that replaced the cam and crank sensor and the variable timing control sensor. Also he suggessted that I have the ECU reflashed.

I have an appointment next week at the Nissan Dealer to take care of these issues. Hopefully they will not give me any hassles.
 

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You know I have had this problem before and had the feul dampers replaced.

I think its from low oil. Ever notice it happen after you make a long left or right turn?

I had it happen 2-3 times, and after the fuel dampner was replaced I just happened to check the oil. I barely had anything on the stick. So after adding oil.. no more problem.

My problem now is that I seem to add about 1.5 -2 qts between oild changes. I change oil usually around 5k miles too. And there is none leaking that I can see or smell.


jason
 

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jwa95ta said:
My problem now is that I seem to add about 1.5 -2 qts between oild changes. I change oil usually around 5k miles too. And there is none leaking that I can see or smell.
That is way too much oil to be adding between changes. How many miles are on your MO??

-njjoe
 

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Yes I agree!! I think we have 75k on it? Its my wifes car, so I only see it on the weekend. :)

I would think that I really started keeping up with that oil consumtption in the middle of last year. I just know between the last oil change and now (time for another change) I have put just about 2 quarts in it. I usually add a half qt when I check. But I was reminded by the dreadful "rattle" last week to check the oil :O

I have extended warranty on it, so I guess it will be making a trip to the dealership. But I just dont have faith in them finding anything.

I have seen cars need 1/2qt to 1 quart before oil changes. But not like last time with 2 qts.


Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally got the wife's Murano back from the dealer and paid $300 for nothing. The dealer had the "engine mechanic" diagnose the Murano. He verified the engine pinging noise. He checked for intake leaks-none. He attempted to"relearn" the idle but failed. So he reprogrammed the ECM with new software and then "relearned" the idle. Engine pinging still there. Nissan mechanic found a dent in the oil pan. He said the ping was from lack of oil because the pan was dented......BULL. If it's not the pan, he suggested a new replacement engine. Why????? So I took the Murano home and replaced the pan. Engine oil pickup was not bent or crushed. With the pan off, I looked at the crank, rods, and bearings....it was spotless, no sludge, no oil burning or oil stains. The bottom of the oil pan was also clean...no sludge, no shavings....just spotless. Called the dealer today and left a message for the mechanic on what he advises to do next. In the meantime.........anyone have any ideas???
No codes or warning lights
No pinging in Park or Neutral
No pinging at high speed or nailing it from a dead stop
Pings only at part-throttle load approx 2000rpm
92 Octane Chevron unleaded
Royal Purple synthetic oil 10w-40w
No oil consumption issues
No blue smoke out of the exhaust
Nissan oil filter
NGK platinum plugs
MAF cleaned
Throttle body cleaned
New Nissan air filter
 

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tubbedz-

Dented oil pan causes the engine to ping?? A replacement engine is required???

You just have to love the new breed of dealer mechanics. :rolleyes: If there is no error code telling them what part to replace they are lost.

Troubleshooting is fast becoming a lost art. :4:

-njjoe
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
njjoe

I feel the same way.....these new breed of mechanics are too lazy too troubleshoot and instead wait for a code to pop up. WTF

These guys could have hooked up a Consult 2 and checked every sensor or the timing or fuel pressure or the ECU......instead I should buy a new motor, how'd he diagnose that??? He didn't even pull the plugs!!
 

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tubbedz said:
He didn't even pull the plugs!!
I can picture his thought process... Pull the plugs?? What's that going to tell me?? :confused: Is there a machine to read the codes on the plugs????

I was fortunate to have a real mechanic work on my Jeep. He ran a small shop that was messy, located off the beaten track, and had a waiting area that was piled with parts, both new and used. He never advertised yet the shop was always busy because he was that good.

This guy was a true trouble-shooter and often repaired the suspect part instead of simply replacing it. You'll never find a guy like that in a Nissan dealership.

-njjoe
 

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Did the mechanic try checking the knock sensor? From what I understand, a bad knock sensor might store a code but will not trip the check engine light.

Also, their ConsultII should be able to recording engine timing history during a test drive - if the timing is ok, then he should check that the ignition coil packs are pushing out enough voltage, and after that, maybe have a go at the plugs.

The dented oil pan has nothing to do with pinging. Completely unrelated and what a poppycock story they loaded you up with!
 

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jwa95ta said:
You know I have had this problem before and had the feul dampers replaced.

I think its from low oil. Ever notice it happen after you make a long left or right turn?

I had it happen 2-3 times, and after the fuel dampner was replaced I just happened to check the oil. I barely had anything on the stick. So after adding oil.. no more problem.

My problem now is that I seem to add about 1.5 -2 qts between oild changes. I change oil usually around 5k miles too. And there is none leaking that I can see or smell.


jason
If you're not seeing any oil leaking and you don't see any blue smoke coming out the back, that tells me you have a slow leak into your cylinders. I would suggest getting a cylinder scope and looking into each cylinder after you run your MO. If you look in there and see some weaping around the seam between your block and head then it's time for a head gasket swap.

I just had to do this on my wife's Sentra. It was consuming a bit of coolant every day. I kept wondering where the fluid was going considering it was not leaking out on the ground. When I got a misfire on cylinder 3 code it was obvious. The scope helped out a lot though. We could actually see the coolant dripping down the #3 cylinder wall.
 

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tubbedz said:
Finally got the wife's Murano back from the dealer and paid $300 for nothing. The dealer had the "engine mechanic" diagnose the Murano. He verified the engine pinging noise. He checked for intake leaks-none. He attempted to"relearn" the idle but failed. So he reprogrammed the ECM with new software and then "relearned" the idle. Engine pinging still there. Nissan mechanic found a dent in the oil pan. He said the ping was from lack of oil because the pan was dented......BULL. If it's not the pan, he suggested a new replacement engine. Why????? So I took the Murano home and replaced the pan. Engine oil pickup was not bent or crushed. With the pan off, I looked at the crank, rods, and bearings....it was spotless, no sludge, no oil burning or oil stains. The bottom of the oil pan was also clean...no sludge, no shavings....just spotless. Called the dealer today and left a message for the mechanic on what he advises to do next. In the meantime.........anyone have any ideas???
No codes or warning lights
No pinging in Park or Neutral
No pinging at high speed or nailing it from a dead stop
Pings only at part-throttle load approx 2000rpm
92 Octane Chevron unleaded
Royal Purple synthetic oil 10w-40w
No oil consumption issues
No blue smoke out of the exhaust
Nissan oil filter
NGK platinum plugs
MAF cleaned
Throttle body cleaned
New Nissan air filter
Your issue is definitely unique and odd to say the least. Considering the following:

1) If it was your gas pedal position sensor then your issue would happen all the time. But since it only fails while in drive the gas pedal is ruled out.
2) The ECU has multiple engine management profiles stored in it that will change timing curves, fuel pulse profiles, etc depending on how you drive it. If you're driving normally it will use one profile while "gunning it" from the line it will use another. This rules out the ECU.
3) Each side of the engine has its own variable valve timing advancement system. Since you're engine works fine under "gunning it" conditions I have to rule out the variable valve timing.
4) I'm not knowledgeable as to how the knock sensor would affect this specific system. My general understanding, however, is that the knock sensor will force the ECU to retard the timing to the point where you don't knock at all. This usually results in bad MPG and HP performance.

The only thing left is the spark system and the injector system. Have you looked at how the injectors are working? My thoughts keep going back to what specific conditions have to be met in order for the failure to occur. If you are running too lean of a gas/air mixture on one or more of your cylinders you're going to get knocking. Knocking to me sounds like marbles bouncing around insie the cylinder. Maybe you have an injector that is not pulsing correctly at a specific RPM thus causing your knocking.

If your friend at Honda has the capability to read timing while running, what is the ECU doing while the knock is occuring? Do you notice it retard the timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Warhammer.... thank you, thank you!!!

I read this Dodge article to troubleshoot the part-throttle pinging.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/ping.htm

After reading this article, I'm leaning towards changing the plugs as they look a little overheated. Also will change my coolant, temp sensor and thermostat because lately, my fans come on alot....maybe a stuck thermostat causing increased heat?? I will also replace the PCV valve as there is no EGR. Lastly, I may change a coil or two if the coressponding plug doesn't compare to the others. I would also like to inspect the fuel pump but, I'll do that last as the pump filter and pickup are all attached and very expensive. Good idea on the fuel injectors but I wouldn't I read lean all the time??? I'm leaning towards changing the fuel dampers as they click alot and respond more like a fuel regulator instead of a damper.

Once again...thank you Warhammer and thank you Njjoe!!!
 
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