[Warhammer]

Hooooooooold on there buddy. You may not need to do some of this rework. It looks to me like you're just shooting in the dark here and may not need to exchange everything in the list. Especially with the "??" on the end makes me fee like you're grasping at straws.

Let's tackle this logically:

Temperature Issue -- If you're driving your MO from a cold start you should notice after a little bit that you're water temperature gauge comes up and then hovers about 1-3 the way up. If it stops there then you're cooling system is fine. A thermostat that is stuck open will force the motor to take forever to heat up. A thermostat that is stuck closed will cause your engine to continue heating until it overheats. If you get out of your MO and feel the top of the radiator and it's hot, then your thermostat should be working fine. You should be able to plug in an OBD-II reader and watch the temperature rise. If you see a response in your water temp gauge, then the sensors should be fine as well.

PCV Valve -- Don't worry about this one. These guys don't go out that often. They're cheap though so if you want to swap it out then it's up to you.

Plugs -- Swap out the bank that is closest to the radiator. They're not that expensive so this should be easy.

Coils -- These guys are not cheap! They're like $75 a piece. If you suspect a coil, then pull each one and perform a test on them. Multiple ways to do this but I just check the resistance between the terminals. If it's not shorted, then they're usually fine.

If you think that one of the cylinders is suspect then try to find a scope and look inside the cylinders. Simply looking for imperfections can tell you a lot. Maybe you have some deposits on injectors or the walls of your cylinders that need to be cleaned off. Excessive deposits on an engine can cause pinging as well.

 

[tubbedz]

Done...Fixed!!!!
A special thanks goes out to my local "stealership" who said nothing was wrong because there was no codes......awesome troubleshooting Nissan!!! I guess that's why their called "technicians" and not "mechanics".

Anyway, I removed my upper and lower pelnum collectors so that I could change all my spark plugs. Not just three, all six of them. I'm a thorough mechanic and took tons of pictures if you want to see the procedure. I was careful not to remove or unplug the throttle body so that I would not have to "relearn" anything on the ECU...same goes for the battery. What I found was that the rear cylinder closest to the brake master cylinder was not firing. The coil had white powder deposits on the valve cover from arcing and was doused in oil. When I pulled the coil out it was soaked in oil. The spark plug was also sitting in a "lake" of oil. What appeared to have happeded was that the valve cover did not have a good seal around the spark plug port which caused oil inside the valve cover to overflow and fill the spark plug port. When I pulled this plug it was blackish-brown, as if it was trying to fire and soaked in oil. The five other plugs were perfect and burning beautiful, but I replaced all six to be sure. As for the valve cover, I got a new rubber gasket and put a thin layer of silicone around the spark plug port so that oil would not seep into the port/coil again.

I also tested the resistence(ohms) on the oil soaked coil and it was good, but on the next oil change I will replace it. Per the 2003 Murano Field Service Manual, it explains how to check the coil wiring from the ECUwithout a Consult2. So, I checked this also and the wiring was perfect. Since I was deep into the Murano and I have the FSM, I tested every single sensor that dealt with ignition timing and camshaft/crankshaft timing. All was perfect. I also changed the PCV valve because it was "sticky" and only made of cheap plastic.

I also flushed the coolant and refilled with premixed 50/50 long life coolant and a bottle of Redline "Water Wetter"and tested the temp sensor. Perfect.

With the plenum collectors off I could see directly in the cylinder head and the backside of the intake valves. They were clean as a whistle!!! No deposits, no oil, no nothing....super squeaky clean. I took pictures if you want to see. A week before this tear down, I went through two bottles of "Redline SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner". I did this because the Nissan technician said I have a lot ot deposits......whatever Nissan technician.

All is running well now and the wife is happy. The next project is to install a custom sound system and a build a hidden fiberglass subwoofer enclosure. I'll take pictures again. So far on the wife's car, I've installed color matched 4-sensor reverse sensors, Yellow ion fog lamps, and added an alarm "shock sensor" to her factory "horn alarm". I have pictures of all of these installs if you folks want a "write-up", please let me know.

I'm a hardcore, backyard, shadetree mechanic and enjoy modifying/racing cars. I could take the Nissan technician to "school" as I have built and raced everything from 2-stroke motorcycles to BMW M50 engines. I'm from the old school and can mechanically find my way around any engine. If my wife decides to keep her Murano I will eventually purchase a "Consult2" and screw the Nissan technician.

See my current toy.....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1864005

love......tubbedz

 

[njjoe]

tubbedz-

:29: Nice job!!

-njjoe

 

[Warhammer]

Awesome! Another thumbs up from me!!! :29:

From one garage junkie to another, you did a fantastic job! It's amazing what happens when you have some common sense, know how to troubleshoot, and take the time to do the job right. If you feel like rubbing your skills in, take your findings and pictures to the technicnan manager at the dealership and show him what you found. Maybe the manager will crack some heads together and get his technicians back in line.

I'd imagine you saved your family about $1500 or more. Take that money and spend it on another one of your personal projects.

I would be interested to see a step by step on how you got to the lower intake manifold. I'm sure I could figure it out but seeing it before hand is quite helpful. The other pictures you took in regards to the root cause of the failure might help someone else down the road. That is...if you have the time to write one up. It could be made into a stickey.

Glad to hear that your MO is back on the road again. Keep up the good work!

 

[tubbedz]

Thank you Njjoe and Warhammer!!!!

I'm so sorry my post sounds upsetting as I should be happy that I've found the problem. I just feel that these new, young technicians have lost the feel for troubleshooting and my issue at the dealership could have been delt with better. As with all dealerships, I feel as though I'm just a number and all they want to do is get me out of "service" as quickly as possible with no support......leaving me with"we acknowlege that the engine is broken, please pay now". It's not just Nissan... the local Acura, Toyota, Honda dealership Service centers also gives me the "brushoff" feeling.

On a joyous note!!!
I'll post pics on how to remove the top/bottom plenum/throttle body to access your spark plugs/fuel injectors/knock sensor. In fact, I figured out how to do this quite painlessly.

I'll do it this weekend as I want it to be very accurate. Currently I'm also trying to troubleshoot a 1963 Lincoln with a rebuilt engine that can't idle....whew!!!

Once again......
Thank you Njjoe and Warhammer!!!!
I love that my wife loves her Murano again!!!!

 

[Warhammer]

Thanks for working on the pictures. Your pictuers will help to illustrate how one gets in the tight area and works.

One of the questions I've always had was how does one remove the plate that hangs over the engine compartment? This is the one that sits under the windshield wiper arms and has that plastic moulding over it. I haven't dove in there to experiment.

My ultimate goal is to insulate the low PSI freon line for the AC system. 100+ degree New Mexico summers combined with the heat of the engine compartment makes for a wimpy AC system. The lines are bare and exposed to the heat of the engine compartment. I can't get to the back half of the line because it's between the upper intake manifold and the firewall and is also buried underneath that metal plate.

Maybe one of these days I should get brave and start tinkering with it. Maybe it's easier than I'm thinking it will be.

1963 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL? Isn't that the same vehicle that was used in the Matrix movies? Suicide doors, long and boxy body, etc? Cool! I'm partial to the 1973 Lincoln Continental myself because of the smoother body lines and the 2 long doors. Good luck!

 

[tubbedz]

Warhammer

The pictures will illustrate how to remove the windshield wipers, plastic cowl(2-piece) and the metal cowl that overhangs the engine compartment. Sounds easy??.....because it is. Tons of room after thats removed.

Once the top/bottom collector plenums and cowl are removed you have easy access to the "low" pressure Freon line and you also have access to the powersteering "high" pressure line and the master cylinder and assorted knick knacks back there. The engine looks real basic after that.

What's really a pain is getting to the thermostat because it's buried under the alternator and right next to the engine mount and really close to the passenger side sheetmetal. Tighter than those little Toyota Celica's that I worked on!!!

Exactly!!! This '63 Lincloln is the exact shape as the one in "the Matrix" that closely resembles the JFK motorcarriage. Although this one is silver and has the neat, suicide rear doors. Really nice shape but not my taste in cars. I just need to fix it for my buddy. I still prefer the wife's comfortable Murano though.:2:

 

[Warhammer]

Cool! Thanks for the info.

I really liked the '73 Continential because the back seat was like a love seat. More than enough room to "entertain guests".

 

[tubbedz]

Sorry Warhammer

I can't post any pictures or show anyone how to do this as I used a FSM to figure out.....you need to also. Good luck....

I won't be posting here anymore!!!!
Goodbye!!!

"This forum has a policy against giving out links to free versions of the copyrighted Nissan service manuals."

 

[njjoe]

Sorry Warhammer

I can't post any pictures or show anyone how to do this as I used a FSM to figure out.....you need to also. Good luck....

I won't be posting here anymore!!!!
Goodbye!!!

No one said you can't post photos.

We would just prefer that you not give out links to pirated versions of Nissan's Service Manuals, that's all. It does not look good for one of Nissan's most popular forums to be supporting copyright infringement of their documents.

Is that really too much to ask of a member of one of the best car forums on the net?

-njjoe

 

[Warhammer]

Oh well...an unfortunate turn of events. I was really looking forward to seeing the root cause of your situation. It would have really helped the knowledge base of the forum.

I've posted snapshots (not links) of the Service Manual multiple times to help out other members. It's a simple matter of hitting ALT & the PRINT SCREEN buttons on your keyboard and then cropping it down in a paint application. There is nothing wrong in doing this. If anything, it may drum up more business for Nissan when people find out how useful the Service Manual actually is.

But...to each their own...

 

[WhiteonWheat]

Jeeze, what in the world.

tubbedz just dropped the phone and walked out of the building on this thread after he said he was going to post up some pics of the DIY.

BUMMER...

My wife's 2006 MO has the same EXACT problem tubbedz stated in the beginning of this thread.

I guess I'll write down his findings and suggest to Nissan dealership when I take the MO in to look over all of this...

-WoW

 

[rmoshiri]

Hey guys I'm fairly new to the site and had an engine related question. My wife has always loved her Murano but recently upon acceleration, the engine has been making a clicking or valve rattling sound at 1200rpm - 1400rpm. It only happens at 1200rpm - 1400rpm, after that nothing. At idle there is no clicking/rattling sound and at high RPM or under load their is no clicking/rattling. It only happens on light acceleration when feathering the throttle. When I floor it from a stop, there is no clicking/rattling at all. Any and all suggesstions would be helpful???

I think it may be the fuel injection dampers or maybe the knock sensors???? But it only happens at light throttle from 1200rpm - 1400rpm. Weird....please help???

I had same problem with my 2005 Nissan Murano, with 150K miles on it. It seems like I have pinpointed the problem, and temporarily fixed it with duck tape!

I had multiple non-related problems that came up a bit after the noise that made things confusing. My car stalled and had hard time starting it. Changed the Battery, but it had nothing to do with it, and did not fix anything. My 1st (common) problem with Murano was " Sensor", which Engine Light code indicated. I replaced it by removing the cover under the radiator/grill per videos on the web. That problem got fixed.

Shortly after, got a 2nd problem of hesitation and car stalling when weather got over 80 degrees. Engine light pointed to "Cam Shaft" sensors, which were easier to replaced on the top of the engine. I took the top plastic engine cover and through it away in the process. Let the heat get out.

The original one that you are discussing, still remained. The Noise when taking off, pressing the gas pedal at around 1800 rpm. People online discussed Vacuum leak ... . I ended up replacing MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor right next to the air filter. Easy and inexpensive to do, which requires a special screwdriver sold on Amazon, but N/A to the problem. No harm done.

Today, I found the cause and a temporary solution to my 3rd and original problem that is discussed here. It is the due to "Electric Motor Mounts" that absorb the vibrations. The noise comes when I was in heavy traffic, idling the engine with little air flow hitting the radiator. At the last oil change, the coolant was filled way past the max level. I noticed the water coming out of the container. Right below it is one of the "Electric Motor Mounts"! Visually, saw its circular rubber cover is unsealed, exposing the inside of the "Electric Motor Mount". Coolant water and/or engine heat getting into the "Electric Motor Mount" was my problem.

SOLUTION: 1st I drained the Coolant down to the "max" level. No more overflow out of the container. 2nd, and probably the main fix, was to Temporarily re-seal the top of the "Electric Motor Mount " rubber cover with duck tape. I actually duck taped the "Electric Motor Mount" below coolant container, and more partially, a 2nd one behind the radiator, down below. My car is not making any noise. (See the attached pictures)

QUESTION: Is there a better (e.g. fast acting glue) that can re-seal the rubber cover against the round frame of the "Electric Motor Mount", not needing to apply too much pressure on it. Specially when I can not reach the bottom part of the round rubber cover?

 

[Paigehesler]

Hey guys I'm fairly new to the site and had an engine related question. My wife has always loved her Murano but recently upon acceleration, the engine has been making a clicking or valve rattling sound at 1200rpm - 1400rpm. It only happens at 1200rpm - 1400rpm, after that nothing. At idle there is no clicking/rattling sound and at high RPM or under load their is no clicking/rattling. It only happens on light acceleration when feathering the throttle. When I floor it from a stop, there is no clicking/rattling at all. Any and all suggesstions would be helpful???

I think it may be the fuel injection dampers or maybe the knock sensors???? But it only happens at light throttle from 1200rpm - 1400rpm. Weird....please help???

Hello did you ever figure out the issue? My car is doing the exact same thing, it is also a Murano and I’m not sure what it could be.

 

[Pilgrim]

Hello did you ever figure out the issue? My car is doing the exact same thing, it is also a Murano and I’m not sure what it could be.

It's unlikely you will get a response from a poster in 2019. His last login was Jan of 2020.