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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this terrible sound like something is being dragged under my car while driving. I checked under my car and of course nothing is hanging loose. A few months ago I went to a shop to get an alignment done on my car and they said they couldn't do it because of my tires not having enough tread. I went down the street to replace said tires with some used ones and the shop guy there said I had lower arm control issues messing with my tires or something of the sort. I went back to the alignment shop and now they said the same thing about lower control arm and either bearings or bushings needed to be fixed before they could do it. Well that was back in November and now I notice this sound and it sounds like it's coming from my front driver side tire. That tire is running low on tread so I'm not sure if it's from that or not. My question is would the sounds it's making be cause from the lower control arm? I just finished replacing my alternator and ac compressor last week for about $600 including repair and not looking forward to shelling out more dough on any more repairs for a 03 MO. I don't want to put more money into what the car is worth now. I was looking into getting Carshield since they specialize in older model car repairs, has anyone had any luck or stories about them?
 

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Your post doesn't indicate that you have actually corrected the problem.

The first thing to do is to have the suspension repaired. If that is done, you won't be ruining tires.

I just commented about Car Shield in Car Shield in another thread. They are unlikely to cover this, and an insurance policy for repair on a 18 year old car will be very expensive. Car Shield is also under national scrutiny for alleged failure to pay for repairs.

I tend to drive older cars, and my approach is to pay for repairs and keep in mind that I'm not making car payments. I'll bet your suspension can be fixed for less than two car payments.

Let's face it, cars are going to cost you something. It may be car payments or it may be repairs. You get to pick.

 

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Whenever the rear bushing of the LCA goes bad (OEM leaks fluid) there will be a thud whenever you come to a full stop. Or when you start moving from stop. This will happen when the rubber has cracked and deteriorated to the point there is metal movement. I don’t know If you still have the original one in there but it’s easy to check the bushing condition. There are many post on this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your post doesn't indicate that you have actually corrected the problem.

The first thing to do is to have the suspension repaired. If that is done, you won't be ruining tires.

I just commented about Car Shield in Car Shield in another thread. They are unlikely to cover this, and an insurance policy for repair on a 18 year old car will be very expensive. Car Shield is also under national scrutiny for alleged failure to pay for repairs.

I tend to drive older cars, and my approach is to pay for repairs and keep in mind that I'm not making car payments. I'll bet your suspension can be fixed for less than two car payments.

Let's face it, cars are going to cost you something. It may be car payments or it may be repairs. You get to pick.

I took my car by the mechanic today and he said it was the front driver side wheel bearing hub assembly so I'm getting that replaced and told him to look at the other stuff while the car is up in the air. Thanks for the info on Car Shield. I thought they were like Afflac for cars but I guess they are not. I also checked out some reviews where people complained about payments, repairs and other stuff so that's out the window.

Whenever the rear bushing of the LCA goes bad (OEM leaks fluid) there will be a thud whenever you come to a full stop. Or when you start moving from stop. This will happen when the rubber has cracked and deteriorated to the point there is metal movement. I don’t know If you still have the original one in there but it’s easy to check the bushing condition. There are many post on this issue.
I have no clue about cars and always rely on what mechanics or other people tell me. Luckily, I just moved back home so I have a family mechanic to use so if I do need something done I won't be charged astronomical prices or get unnecessary repairs. I'll ask if anything needs to be repaired (lower control arm) for me to get an alignment. My car is nearing 200k and looks like I'm going to be driving it a little longer than I thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your post doesn't indicate that you have actually corrected the problem.

The first thing to do is to have the suspension repaired. If that is done, you won't be ruining tires.

I just commented about Car Shield in Car Shield in another thread. They are unlikely to cover this, and an insurance policy for repair on a 18 year old car will be very expensive. Car Shield is also under national scrutiny for alleged failure to pay for repairs.

I tend to drive older cars, and my approach is to pay for repairs and keep in mind that I'm not making car payments. I'll bet your suspension can be fixed for less than two car payments.

Let's face it, cars are going to cost you something. It may be car payments or it may be repairs. You get to pick.

BTW should I replace both front bearings at the same time or wait until the other has issues? Just curious since I'm doing one might as well have the other done so I don't have to pay labour twice right? I found these super cheap on Amazon too Amazon.com: TUCAREST 513310 Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Compatible With 2003 04 05 06 2007 Nissan Murano (AWD and FWD Models) 2004-2009 Quest [5-Stud Hub]: Automotive
 

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BTW should I replace both front bearings at the same time or wait until the other has issues? Just curious since I'm doing one might as well have the other done so I don't have to pay labour twice right? I found these super cheap on Amazon too Amazon.com: TUCAREST 513310 Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Compatible With 2003 04 05 06 2007 Nissan Murano (AWD and FWD Models) 2004-2009 Quest [5-Stud Hub]: Automotive
I wouldn’t replace the one that’s fine. There’s very little savings in doing it now, if any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wouldn’t replace the one that’s fine. There’s very little savings in doing it now, if any.
I ended up just replacing the one with the tucarest assembly I purchased from Amazon. Now my ABS light is on in the car and I'm assuming they forgot to put the sensor back in the assembly after watching some youtube videos of people doing it themselves. My question is if it is a major issue or not going forward with driving the car or should I take it back to make sure they put it in or can I even check it myself.
 

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I ended up just replacing the one with the tucarest assembly I purchased from Amazon. Now my ABS light is on in the car and I'm assuming they forgot to put the sensor back in the assembly after watching some youtube videos of people doing it themselves. My question is if it is a major issue or not going forward with driving the car or should I take it back to make sure they put it in or can I even check it myself.
You should be able to check yourself whether or not it's reinstalled as it is mounted on the steering knuckle, but it would be hard to miss that wire flopping around so the more likely reason is they forgot to take the wheel speed sensor out when removing the hub assembly and now it's damaged. Take it back to the place that did the installation and tell them after you drove home from the shop the ABS light came on and you're concerned they damaged the wheel speed sensor when the wheel hub assembly was replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You should be able to check yourself whether or not it's reinstalled as it is mounted on the steering knuckle, but it would be hard to miss that wire flopping around so the more likely reason is they forgot to take the wheel speed sensor out when removing the hub assembly and now it's damaged. Take it back to the place that did the installation and tell them after you drove home from the shop the ABS light came on and you're concerned they damaged the wheel speed sensor when the wheel hub assembly was replaced.
Thanks, I took it back today and they said the sensor was probably damaged by the old hub assembly or something and that if I bought a new one they would put it on. They said it isn't a big deal driving wise unless I was up north in the snow so I'm not worried about replacing it.
 

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Just be aware that your ABS braking system won't function until the sensor is replaced. Adjust your emergency braking accordingly... Don't just mash the brake pedal, feather it as required to prevent tire skid to shorten you braking distance.
 
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