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The good news is that you reported it and they started work before the warranty expired. They should be willing to pursue it until resolved. Make sure to maintain your records to show when the problem began.
I guess you must have called the wolf as my !"/$%?& CEL just came back on today! Using my OBDII dongle, it showed P2096 fault which relates to the 2 sensors they replaced less than 3 months ago and my warranty ended a month ago. I have all my service records on paper. I think this will be an ongoing problem...Should I get a CX-5 100th Anniversary Edition???
 

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I guess you must have called the wolf as my !"/$%?& CEL just came back on today! Using my OBDII dongle, it showed P2096 fault which relates to the 2 sensors they replaced less than 3 months ago and my warranty ended a month ago. I have all my service records on paper. I think this will be an ongoing problem...Should I get a CX-5 100th Anniversary Edition???
Hmmm haven't had an issue with those sensors (yet) so I cant comment on their failure rate.

As for your CX-5 question, I had a Mazda 3 for several years with almost zero issues. I really like Mazda and would have gone with one this time around but I found the CX5 a bit tight and under powered (the recent ones have more power now since that was the major complaint from customers). The CX9 was super nice and I really liked it, much much more than the Murano, but I did not need a 7 seater so I didn't want pay for that. They unfortunately dont have an updated CX7 which would have been my go to.

I feel like every manufacturer has its issues and lemons. So it's just the luck of the draw when you get a car.
 

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The love/hate relationship continues with my Murano... It would cost me less to replace a sensor every few months than buying a new vehicle but the trouble to go to the dealer, leave the vehicle and not knowing when the problem will reoccur is a PITA. If my wife would consider to change her Juke for say a CX-30, I would sell my Murano and borrow her vehicle; we're both retired and I do very little mileage now.
 

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Dealer ordered another A/F (air/fuel) sensor and will replace it no charge thanks to goodwill policy by Nissan Canada. Next time I'll have to pay because I do short trips and the sensors are apparently not designed for that kind of driving ! This A/F sensor is the original one, the other one was replaced in July. I rest my case...
 

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Next time I'll have to pay because I do short trips and the sensors are apparently not designed for that kind of driving !
I've gone for two weeks at a time driving only three blocks down to the DD and back home quite regularly. I must really be killing those sensors.

Dealer is just BFGSUYA! Never heard of that kind of excuse! I would guess that there's something else going on. Most dealer mechanics can't look past a code to see what really might be causing the issue. That's where a true mechanic is worth his weight in gold.

Good luck.

Have a good day.
 

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@Freedom55, your Murano is not exhibiting any drivability issues, it's just logging trouble codes, correct?

Here's a long shot... If you buy your gas at the same station every time, try switching to a different brand gas station for awhile. You never know...
 
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I think I'll fill up with 94 octane which is available from one specific refinery and there's a gas station near my home; it's supposed to have extra cleaning power which helps keeping injectors, throttle body, valves and combustion chamber cleaner but not sure about sensors down by the exhaust system.
 

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I think I'll fill up with 94 octane which is available from one specific refinery and there's a gas station near my home; it's supposed to have extra cleaning power which helps keeping injectors, throttle body, valves and combustion chamber cleaner but not sure about sensors down by the exhaust system.
I've found the best luck sticking to Sunoco (91 octane) first choice and Shell (89 octane) the second.

What most people don't realize is that the money saved by buying lower tier/cheap gas, is the long term affect that cheap fuel has on the engine and components. The two items that ages the quickest from cheap gas are the catalectic converters. Cheap fuel is dirty fuel. That microscopic dirt builds up on the honeycomb of catalectic converters, eventually restricting gas flow. First sign is issues with the cat sensors failing due to the excessive heat caused by the restricted flow. That's why the Murano's rear cat always fails first, more prone to running hotter due to location.

Replace the sensor and it will work for a while until it too fails due to the excessive heat. Eventually, the honeycomb will fail and start to crumble. Keep driving and eventually you'll be replacing the engine due to oil burning.

Cat converters should last 200K before needing replacing. The cleaner your engine burns, the longer your cats will last. If your losing more then a qt. of oil per manufacture's recommended oil change (For normal driving.), then technically that engine is an oil burner and you can expect to lose 30% of the cat's life. The standard for today's engines is 10% or less of oil loss per oil change, a little less then a 1/2 qt. with the Murano's engine.

If your experiencing dirt on the MAS, then you need to identify if it's an oily dirt or a dry dirt.

If it's only dry dirt, check the entire air path from the air cleaner to the MAP. The Murano air filter is a known ***** to install, especially the bottom end setting down in properly.

If it's an oily dirt, then the PCV system needs to be checked out. The PCV system is designed to scrub most of the oil mist from the air being introduced back in to the system from upper engine pressure. The design can be overwhelmed if there is an engine issue causing excessive upper engine pressure.

Examples would be a cylinder ring issue, scored cylinder wall, worn/bad valve and/or valve train issue, clogged head drain holes, excessive oil pressure, and probably several others that I can't think of at this time.

Hope this helps pointing in the right direction. Good luck.

Have a good day.
 
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I don't buy cheap gas and my vehicle doesn't burn oil. It's not the MAS (mass airflow sensor) it's always the AF or 02 sensors. Anyhow, the !"/$%? light came back on a mere 8 days after having the AF (air/fuel) sensor replaced! The dealer said to drive for longer distances to properly warm up the sensors which is what I did for the past week or so. At the time, they checked exhaust and intake for leaks, they were fine. Yesterday I checked the fault code with my ELM327 dongle and CVTz50 app, same code as last time P2096; I was so furious, I cleared the code and I'll see what happens next!!! I drove less than 50 miles and the damn sensor failed again, non sense...The exhaust tips look like new, no carbon deposit but that's not exact science.

I normally fill up with premium (91 octane) at Mobil but I don't know how it compares with others in my area.
 

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I don't buy cheap gas and my vehicle doesn't burn oil. It's not the MAS (mass airflow sensor) it's always the AF or 02 sensors. Anyhow, the !"/$%? light came back on a mere 8 days after having the AF (air/fuel) sensor replaced! The dealer said to drive for longer distances to properly warm up the sensors which is what I did for the past week or so. At the time, they checked exhaust and intake for leaks, they were fine. Yesterday I checked the fault code with my ELM327 dongle and CVTz50 app, same code as last time P2096; I was so furious, I cleared the code and I'll see what happens next!!! I drove less than 50 miles and the damn sensor failed again, non sense...The exhaust tips look like new, no carbon deposit but that's not exact science.

I normally fill up with premium (91 octane) at Mobil but I don't know how it compares with others in my area.
When the code comes back, see if there's any freeze frame data stored with it before erasing. If there is, post it here as I'm curious what the state of the sensors are when the code is triggered.

BTW, when you say you only drive short distances, how short? How many kilometers per day/week?
 

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When the code comes back, see if there's any freeze frame data stored with it before erasing. If there is, post it here as I'm curious what the state of the sensors are when the code is triggered.

BTW, when you say you only drive short distances, how short? How many kilometers per day/week?
I'm not sure there is a freeze frame data stored with the CVTz50 app (I'm no expert) but I'll have a look next time. Most of my trips are about 5 kms doing local errands with occasional longer trips or just backing up to let my wife get out of the garage with her car. The vehicle could sit for a few days and I drive only about 100 kms a week. One option is to sell the vehicle and use my wife's 2015 Juke which is trouble free. Thanks!
 
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