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Can someone direct me to information on 04 Murano motor mount locations and replacement instructions? I know there are four and I was told the front mount is bad and the rear shows wear.
 

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Unpleasant.

I'll assume we are talking vehicle front (vs engine front), and the front mount isnt horrible. It's location is off-center to the left up front. Right where the trans mates to the engine, and runs down to the subframe. 3 bolts, 2 at the subframe and one at the trans bracket. You'll need to raise the engine and drop the subframe to make the switch.

The Rear mount is a bit of a pain. Its location mirrors that of the front, but on the rear side of the transmission. Again engine up, subframe down (will have to loosen steering shaft to get enough room on the subframe), and its just a joy to get it out past the steering gear, PTU and related plumbing.

The other 2 mounts are 'front and rear' to the engine. The "rear" is on the LH side and connects the lower edge of the CVT to the subframe. not bad. The 'front' connects the front of the engine to the RH frame rail under the coolant jug and IPDM. Mildly annoying combination of studs and bolts on the engine side, and the engine will need supported. One of the studs points down, the forward one.

Not something I'd attempt as side work, as I dont have a lift at home. Not trying to put you off DIY, as I support it, just giving you an honest opinion as someone who's done this job before. Several times.
 

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I have had all of the motor mounts replaced over the last year and 1/2. It was expensive...be prepared to payout $400+ /pair.
 

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So why are the Nissan motor mounts such a problem?
In terms of a failure rate, they are not abnormal. they are only slightly more trouble to replace than the average transverse powertrain. Cost is higher on the earlier models with electric mounts.
 

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My 2003 Mo has 66K (yep bought it in 09 with 19K) miles on it from Carmax. I've had them replace the front motor mounts. (told they're liquid filled, appears to be oil). Now I spotted a right rear mount leaking. Still under carmax warranty so taking back to get fixed.
 

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I can understand intellectually why a liquid-filled mount might have advantages in terms of NVH reduction (noise, vibration & harshness) but the practical side, including increased system complexity and greater potential for part failure in one of the most prosaic parts in an automobile, leave me shaking my head. This isn't a $60K Mercedes or Cadillac with electronically controlled suspension, fer cryin' out loud.

If one of mine goes, you can bet the replacement will be non-electric and solid rubber, not liquid-filled. I am somewhat reassured by KtG's assertion that the failure rate is not much different from other cars. The failure rate I have experienced with motor mounts in the past has been so low as to be almost nonexistant (1 failure in 40+ years).
 

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I am in the process of replacing the motor mounts in our 05' murano. From what I have read I elected to not worry about the rear mount for now. Our murano has 92k on it right now so while I was ordering parts I decided to go ahead and get plugs and the manifold gasket. My parts will be in on Tuesday. We decided to leave the car in the garage until then. I for one will be replacing the mounts with solid rubber mounts. Seems to me that the liquid filed mounts leave a lot to be desired with a track record of 35k to 60k. Considering that a lot of the old V8's used 2 mounts, lasted over 100k miles, cost less than $10 each and hardly ever failed! I am somewhat disappointed in nissans engineering capabilities on this one. jmho..............
Wish me luck, cause I will be doing all of this myself, too poor to afford someone else labor rate!
 

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Considering that a lot of the old V8's used 2 mounts, lasted over 100k miles, cost less than $10 each and hardly ever failed! I am somewhat disappointed in nissans engineering capabilities on this one. jmho..............

EXACTLY my sentiments. There are an increasing number of things on modern cars which give small increments of "improvement" but which increase system complexity and repair costs beyond the benefit...at least IMNSHO.
 

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EXACTLY my sentiments. There are an increasing number of things on modern cars which give small increments of "improvement" but which increase system complexity and repair costs beyond the benefit...at least IMNSHO.

I do appreciate all the helpful posts and collective information that has been made available to me on this forum. Seems like a really good forum. I do not post much, but I do read a lot of the other posts.
Keep it up yall', doin a great job!!!!!!!!!
 

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Ok, I have replaced 3 of the motor mounts on our 2005 Nissan Murano 2WD.
I went back with solid rubber mounts, from Oreillys, cost was about $400 for all three mounts.

Tools;
1. 17mm sockets, end wrench, stubby wrench, and 65* offset wrench
2. 14 mm sockets and end wrenches
3. 10 mm sockets and end wrenches
4. 1 bottle jack and some 2" x 6" 's, a square 2" x 6" under the oil pan will work for jacking up the engine without causing any damage.
5. Impacts will help a lot, 1/4" cordless and 1/2" air if you have them.
6. Floor jack and jack stands

First thing I would do is put the vehicle up on jack-stands, remove the front tires, remove the inner splash guard on the passenger side.
The mount on top of the engine is the easiest by far, remove the radiator reservoir, disconnect the hose from the radiator, and set the whole assembly out of the way. Now you should be able to see the 2 bolt holding the top engine mount to the body, just remove the 2 bolts from the body, then one nut on the mount from the top along with the bolt in the middle, next go through the splash-guard service section to remove the nut from the under side of the top mount.

The rear mount was probably the worse out of all three. There is a bracket that strengthens the mount that runs from the mount to the cross-member (front drivers side of mount), remove the 2 bolts holding this on and get it out of the way. There is a heat shield on the passenger side that is bolted to the cross-member, 2 bolts holding it as well, remove it and get it out of the way. I would get as much as I possibly could off of the car and out of the way as room is limited, your gonna need all the space you can get and you are going to probably reposition yourself from several different angles. I would also suggest that once you have the majority of the bolts off and you are down to that last bolt that runs through the center of the mount, I would get a sawzall or something and cut that bolt in half, just so I could get the mount off. Take the bracket off the engine, hog that threaded hole out and pass a bolt through the hogged out side and put a nut on the other side. Nissan used a 5" bolt and made that mount so you would have to extract it from the passenger side, which the exhaust manifold is directly in the way and they only leave you 2.5" to remove a 5" bolt. Where as the other side (driver side) has tons of room. Absolutely makes no sense to me and you can argue engineering all you want, but what difference does it make when they use huge bolts on a mount that is going to fail long before the bolts do. Anyway, that's my take on the rear mount between the engine and the firewall.

The one located between the radiator and the engine is relatively easy. Just remove the air-duct assembly for the intake, disconnect your battery cables, pull the battery on out, remove the battery pan, it has 5 bolts holding it in position, slip the black box off of the battery pan and push it to the side, you are going to need the battery pan out of the way so you can finagle the fan shroud assembly out of there. Now you can disconnect the 2 bolts in the top of the dual fan mount, disconnect the electrical connections to both fans, I just cut all of the factory zip ties loose, and snake the dual fan assembly up and out of the way. You will also need to loosen the lower splash guard, just disconnect it from the radiator support so it will swing down and out of the way so you can access the mount from both sides of the radiator support. There is a weight on the drivers side of this mount, maybe 40 lbs or something, has 2 nuts holding it on, real easy to remove and it helps to get it out of the way. Once everything is out of the way this is probably the easiest mount to do.
The bottle jack will come into play when you are doing the lower 2 mounts. Which is also why you do not install the top mount until last (no reason to be torquing on a new mount before it goes into service.

I was having trouble getting the bolt to pass through the center of the front mount, I could not get it to go through. So I finally decided to remove it then with the bolt and mount in each hand I tried to pass the bolt through, it would not go, the bolt was straight and not damaged or distorted in any way, it was the bushing inside of the mount that was distorted and would not allow the bolt to pass through. So check all of these parts before you put the on and have problems.

Another note on the new mounts is I had to bend the mount out so it would slip over the bracket on the car. I used 2 crescent wrenches and just tweaked them somewhat and it was still a tight fit. But not to worry once you get the bolts in and tightened down all of this will straighten right up!
Maybe the new mounts from Nissan are made in a plant that has higher quality control than the China knock-offs and are easier to work with????
 

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Jakson-

:29: Excellent write-up.

I will copy your post into a separate thread under the Maintenance section and make it a "sticky".

-njjoe
 

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Jakson-

:29: Excellent write-up.

I will copy your post into a separate thread under the Maintenance section and make it a "sticky".

-njjoe
Thanks Joe, I just hope it helps someone out or even possibly helps the DIY'er that is not to certain of themselves. It was not that bad of a job to do. While doing it I also noticed that the inner boot of my cv-joint was torn. None of the parts stores around here carry the inner cv-boot, special order only, about $25 with shipping and handling. So I just opted to replace the whole half-shaft assembly, which comes pre-assembled, with 2 new boots, for $70. Why not get the whole assembly if you are going to be $30 into it just for boots!!!!
 

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Wow another thing I have to watch out for! I wish you luck! I think I'm going to go back in vehicles instead of trying to upgrade maybe a 79 Ford pickup Will be my next future transportation at least they don't nickle and dime ya to bankruptcy
 

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Wow another thing I have to watch out for! I wish you luck! I think I'm going to go back in vehicles instead of trying to upgrade maybe a 79 Ford pickup Will be my next future transportation at least they don't nickle and dime ya to bankruptcy
Your right, at 13mpg they will $50 and $100 you to bankruptcy much faster!
Everything has a trade off.
We have right at 100k miles on our Murano. So far it has been a very good car. Funny you mention the 79 Ford truck, as I currently have a 2001 GMC sierra 3/4 ton and I have been thinking about an old Ford truck to possibly replace it. But right now it is paid for and has 100k on it to. As in the future I will never own another GM or Dodge product again (the union bailouts turned me sour on them). I will most likely own a Ford or a Nissan, might consider a Kai, Hyundai,or Honda.
 

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Rear lower motor mount

Unfortunately mine has a sensor in it. But my question is how important that sensor is? because removing the Rack & Pinion I ripped the sensor off and I don't want to put in the new R&P if I have to replace the mount because of the sensor. Will it give me an Engine Light if I just leave it like that? Thanks in advance.
 

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First off, thank you jackson200369 for the write up. It gave me the confidence to give this a shot and save $100's.

My Murano is a 2005 2WD and is high enough that I can slide underneath it. I didn't jack the car or remove the wheels.

I replaced the front right (passenger side) mount , $27 at Amazon, and the front mount with sensor, $65 at Amazon.

My experience with the front mount was a something of a DIY disaster. I followed the instructions to make space for removal of the mount. By the way, I found lifting the battery side of the dual fan assembly and rotating it upward and sliding it toward the battery side of the car made it easier to get out without interfering with the radiator and engine connections. reverse the rotation when reinstalling. I could not get the long bolt that runs through the mount loose with a 100ft/lb impact wrench. Bought a $40 230ft/lb electric impact wrench (Harbor Freight) and it came of like butter. I could not break loose the 2 shorter bolts that secure the mount to the frame. Both flange nuts are on the passenger side of the mount. I barely fit the wrench onto the flange nut near the radiator, but could not break it loose. Eventually used a Dremel tool with cut off discs to cut around the nut portion of the flange nut. I was careful not to go to deep because I wanted to re-use the bolt. With vise grips on the remaining flange, I was able to impact wrench out the bolt from the drivers side.

The rear side flange nut was another story altogether. It is surrounded by heat shields, exhaust components, and the frame in way that makes a 17mm closed end wrench your only option. I suppose you could start taking some or all of the offending engine parts off until you had better access, but I was already pretty much at my comfort level for disassembling engines. I couldn't get the flange nut to budge at all, even with the impact wrench from the bolt side. I decided to cut off the flange nut and bolt and replace them both. I bought some hack saw blades. The package recommended 18 teeth/in for this grade of bolt. I put on some leather gloves and proceeded to hand saw the flange nut from underneath. It took about an hour of sawing until I was almost through it. I finally used pliers to bend and remove the nut/bolt section I cut through. I put vise grips on the remaining flange, but it would still not break loose with an impact wrench from the bolt side. Back to the Dremel tool. I cut through the flange and bolt roughly parallel to the ground, mainly because it's the only angle I had. After I'd made a significant groove in the flange, but before cutting into the motor mount mounting bracket, I again secured the flange with vise grips and finally impact wrenched the flange loose.

When I tried to lift out the old mount, it didn't come out easily. If I remember right, it finally came out when I pushed forward on the top of the mount, then lifted it at the front mounting hole, and it was suddenly loose. Installing the new mount did not require any such gymnastics, but the motor mount bracket, connected to the engine, did not allow the new mount to be inserted. I took a hammer and carefully (the radiator is exposed about 6 inches away) gave the bracket a few moderate whacks in each direction until the mount fit snugly in the bracket. Installing the bolts is a matter of raising and lowering the engine until each one lined up with the mounting holes. I used a ratchet to tighten the bolts at this point to take up all the slack on the flange nut side of the mount.

The front right mount (passenger side) was the easiest. I was able to reach the bottom facing bolt with a 14mm deep well socket with extensions and a pry bar. I connected the new mount to the engine first and then slowly adjusted the engine height until the bolts to the chassis lined up.

I dropped the jack and tightened all the mounting bolts while the engine was resting on the mounts.

In spite of everything, I still thought it was worth saving all the money I read about that was quoted for this repair. With the new mounts, replacement Grade 8 hardware, hacksaw blades, 17mm closed end wrench, and impact wrench, I was only in for $165, two days of time and I learned some more about the Murano and car repair.

By the way, the Murano just glides down the road now. Thanks again jackson200369!
 
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