From what little description of the car, year only, this is the best I can guess. Miles and a little driving history helps a lot.I checked the battery and also tried to jump start but that didn’t help.
It’s 144K miles, and the battery is about 3 years 9 months old now. I guess I’ll try a newer battery on it to see if that solves the issue. But was the unsuccessful jumpstart not enough to rule out batter as a possibility?From what little description of the car, year only, this is the best I can guess. Miles and a little driving history helps a lot.
Sounds like you might need a new battery. If it's reading less than 11.8V in the AM before starting, than consider replacing it.
Good luck.
Have a good day.
Not necessarily, especially if the battery is very discharged. Whenever a no crank, no start situation happens always start with the battery. Ideally, if it's measuring less than full charge at the battery terminals with DVOM then hook up a battery charger until fully charged and then load test it (...or bring it to an auto parts store if you don't have a tester at home). If the battery is bad, replace it and try to start the engine again. If the battery checks out, move on to the rest of the starter circuit.But was the unsuccessful jumpstart not enough to rule out batter as a possibility?
I don’t have a battery charger yet, but will buy one as it seems like a good investment so that I can avoid the hassle of swapping the new battery from my wife’s car.Not necessarily, especially if the battery is very discharged. Whenever a no crank, no start situation happens always start with the battery. Ideally, if it's measuring less than full charge at the battery terminals with DVOM then hook up a battery charger until fully charged and then load test it (...or bring it to an auto parts store if you don't have a tester at home). If the battery is bad, replace it and try to start the engine again. If the battery checks out, move on to the rest of the starter circuit.
You've probably also seen threads advising to inspect the negative ground cable so do this as well. If you have someone to help you, connect your DVOM to the battery ground terminal and and starter case while attempting to start the engine. This will give a voltage drop measurement. Nissan spec is less than 0.2 volts, but one or two tenths higher than that wouldn't alarm me. Voltage drop testing is actually the most definitive test since a visual inspection doesn't reveal what may be going on underneath the cable shielding.
Good luck and post an update when you find out the problem.
Got it. Will Autozone be able to tell me how much life my battery still has and whether it’s still healthy enough?11.8V is on the low low side of what a healthy battery should read. 12.2V to 12.6V is what you should be getting after the car has been resting for a while like overnight. If you live in a warmer climate, you might get away with a weaker battery for a while. For the long run and a peace of mind, you should consider replacing the battery. The Noco Genius 5 or any other battery charger/conditioner cannot work magic to repair a failing battery. Good luck!
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Got it. I’ll try with the battery from my wife’s car to confirm the problem and replace it. Hopefully it’s just the battery problem.You are hearing the starter solenoid click but not engage. The reason is the battery isn't providing enough voltage to drive the starter.
Your posts don't mention replacing the battery. Replace the battery.
The history you have described indicates that this is the problem and you have simply gotten all the lifetime out of the current battery that you're going to get. It's time to get a new battery.
Unfortunately the Muranos (and many other cars) are extremely vulnerable to battery and voltage issues. I remember the days when I could get 5, 6, even 7 or 8 years out of a battery. That doesn't happen much anymore, and not with Muranos in particular. It worked in a 1958 Fiat or my 1966 GTO. But they had no computers, just a switch, a coil, points and plugs.
