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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,



Let me start off by saying that I am definitely not the most mechanically inclined person so please bear with me if I don't use the right terminology. And since I am not sure how to mechanically explain exactly what the issue is with our Murano, I will just describe as detailed as possible what happens when we face the problem.



So, we get in our Murano, we then insert the key into the slot, we then press the brake pedal and then press the start button. Except the Murano does not start…The lights normally go on and the gages are set up normally, but it is as if the Murano does not recognize that we are pressing the brake pedal because it says to press the brake pedal in order for the Murano to start.



I think that is all the details I can think/remember to share…Hopefully, this helps someone with mechanical experience/expertise enlighten us on how we can resolve this issue.



We look forward to any helpful feedback.



Thank you



P.S. It is a Murano SL 2009
 

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...it is as if the Murano does not recognize that we are pressing the brake pedal because it says to press the brake pedal in order for the Murano to start.
Do the brake lights on the back of the car turn on when you push the brake pedal?
 

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The brake light switch does more than light up the rear brake lights.

It disengages the ACC and has a safety circuit to check that the brake pedal is depress before engaging the starter motor.

Any one of the circuits can go bad without affecting the others.

Bottom line. Replace the brake light switch at the pedal first before proceeding any further. It's the cheapest thing without paying $120 for a Nissan diagnosis.

Good luck.

Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The brake light switch does more than light up the rear brake lights.

It disengages the ACC and has a safety circuit to check that the brake pedal is depress before engaging the starter motor.

Any one of the circuits can go bad without affecting the others.

Bottom line. Replace the brake light switch at the pedal first before proceeding any further. It's the cheapest thing without paying $120 for a Nissan diagnosis.

Good luck.

Have a good day.
Hi, PaulDay,

I appreciate the advice and will look into buying a "brake light switch" online and most of all I will look on YouTube to see if I can find a video of how to do the replacement.

Thank you
 

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I'm not familiar with how that type of ignition system works. I didn't know there was a key-FOB insertion slot that also requires pushing a start button. Is it possible a dead or low battery in the key-FOB is preventing the car's security system from recognizing the key that would allow the brake depression phase to begin? Maybe the key-FOB battery needs to be replaced, or perhaps the chip in the key-FOB is damaged.

Have you tried using a different key-FOB to start the car?

I'm a big proponent of disconnecting the battery leads, waiting a minute, then reconnecting them, as doing so has solved many issues on many cars I've worked on over the years, including my 2003 and 2021 Muranos. It's just me, but before spending money on a part and taking things apart, I would try a battery disconnect, along with disconnecting and reconnecting any easily accessible electrical connection to that brake pedal switch.

Do any of the more knowledgeable members know if a bad relay could cause this issue?
 

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The lights normally go on and the gages are set up normally, but it is as if the Murano does not recognize that we are pressing the brake pedal because it says to press the brake pedal in order for the Murano to start.
I am confused about what you are saying. Are the dash and gauge lights coming on normally when you insert the key, and the system is telling you to depress the brake pedal? Or, are the dash and gauge lights not looking how they normally look, and all you are getting is the message to depress the brake pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am confused about what you are saying. Are the dash and gauge lights coming on normally when you insert the key, and the system is telling you to depress the brake pedal? Or, are the dash and gauge lights not looking how they normally look, and all you are getting is the message to depress the brake pedal?
Hi Cryogenix1,

To answer your question, the dash and gauge lights are coming on normally when I insert the key, and the system is telling me to depress the brake pedal even though I am already depressing the brake pedal.

I hope that clears things up.

I appreciate the advice.

Thank you
 

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Hi Cryogenix1,

To answer your question, the dash and gauge lights are coming on normally when I insert the key, and the system is telling me to depress the brake pedal even though I am already depressing the brake pedal.

I hope that clears things up.

I appreciate the advice.

Thank you
Thank you for the clarification. It was simply my interpretation based on how I've typically read/heard things phrased that made it a little unclear. "The lights normally go on" made it seem like you were indicating a change in the way things usually worked. If you had said "The lights go on normally" or "The lights went on normally" it would have made it seem less like a comparison of then versus now. Almost seemed like you were indicating that the lights USUALLY go on in a certain manner, but this time they had not. The written meaning of online material often goes misunderstood.
 
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Mechanics should not be allowed to film a customer's car without help. I hated the way the guy only used one hand to disconnect that connector, and that he seemed to press his fingers all over the gauge glass, and really disliked the way he tried to incorrectly remove that spring-loadad assembly with the tiny screwdriver, etc, etc. The guy had no clue what he was doing and was winging it.
 

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For those interested, I found the following video that makes the brake light switch "fix" look rather simple even for a newbie like me.

I will update later after I try it.
I checked my car (which does start) and just pushing the brake pedal doesn't make that notification go away. My guess is the combination meter turns it off when it starts receiving an RPM signal. I don't think the brake switch is the problem in this case. It has four pins--two that control the transmission shift lock solenoid in the center console and two that feed battery voltage to the brake lights, BCM, ABS control module and maybe some other things via a splice after the switch (...in the fuse box under the dashboard). Since the brake lights come on when the brake pedal is pressed, the switch is working. I suppose there could be a problem with the wiring past the splice (e.g. going to the BCM), but out of the realm of possibilities, I think it's more likely the starter is bad if the battery is still good.

Do you have any electrical test equipment like a test light or DVOM to do some more troubleshooting? If it turns out to be a bad starter, do you feel that you have the tools and capacity to replace it yourself (...you indicated you're "not the most mechanically inclined person" in your original post)?

BTW, you never indicated if anything precipitated the no crank condition. DId you park the car overnight and the next morning it wouldn't start? Or, did the engine stall and wouldn't restart? Any details on how the car was operating before this started may be helpful.
 
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I'm not trying to belittle you but sometimes the pressure on the brake pedal needs to be quite hard.
You did say, "Let me start off by saying that I am definitely not the most mechanically inclined".
Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For those interested, I found the following video that makes the brake light switch "fix" look rather simple even for a newbie like me.


I will update later after I try it.
Well, I am ashamed to report that this operation was a failure. Here are a few details as to why:

  1. Unlike in the video, the brake light switch is not at all as easy to access.​
  2. Unlike in the video, the cable connected to the brake light switch is extremely short which gave me practically no room to work with in detaching it whiteout risking damaging the cable.​
  3. I was not able to snap the brake light switch out of the casing that is attached to the cable.​

So I have no idea if this would have resolved the brake/starting issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm not trying to belittle you but sometimes the pressure on the brake pedal needs to be quite hard.
You did say, "Let me start off by saying that I am definitely not the most mechanically inclined".
Just a thought.
Hi canuckguy,

No worries...I hear you...Don't know what to tell you except I applied the regular amount of pressure that a 6'1/260lbs man usually applies...

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I checked my car (which does start) and just pushing the brake pedal doesn't make that notification go away. My guess is the combination meter turns it off when it starts receiving an RPM signal. I don't think the brake switch is the problem in this case. It has four pins--two that control the transmission shift lock solenoid in the center console and two that feed battery voltage to the brake lights, BCM, ABS control module and maybe some other things via a splice after the switch (...in the fuse box under the dashboard). Since the brake lights come on when the brake pedal is pressed, the switch is working. I suppose there could be a problem with the wiring past the splice (e.g. going to the BCM), but out of the realm of possibilities, I think it's more likely the starter is bad if the battery is still good.

Do you have any electrical test equipment like a test light or DVOM to do some more troubleshooting? If it turns out to be a bad starter, do you feel that you have the tools and capacity to replace it yourself (...you indicated you're "not the most mechanically inclined person" in your original post)?

BTW, you never indicated if anything precipitated the no crank condition. DId you park the car overnight and the next morning it wouldn't start? Or, did the engine stall and wouldn't restart? Any details on how the car was operating before this started may be helpful.
Hi I need coffee,

To answer your questions:

  • No, I do not have any "electrical test equipment " just basic household tools. As far as "capacity" I am eager to learn but without experienced guidance from people here, YouTube videos, etc. I would most probably fall flat on my face.
  • Now about the " precipitated the no crank condition"..., I just realized it would definitely be helpful to anyone wanting to help us out to read an older post I made on another thread of this forum a while back: 09 Murano Back-up Camera not working
  • This brake/starting issue just happened suddenly after we had just used the Murano the day before.
I hope this helps you help us a little bit better.


Thank you
 

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Well, I am ashamed to report that this operation was a failure. Here are a few details as to why:

  1. Unlike in the video, the brake light switch is not at all as easy to access.​
  2. Unlike in the video, the cable connected to the brake light switch is extremely short which gave me practically no room to work with in detaching it whiteout risking damaging the cable.​
  3. I was not able to snap the brake light switch out of the casing that is attached to the cable.​

So I have no idea if this would have resolved the brake/starting issue.
Order the new one. BTY, you need the "Brake Pedal Position Switch", not the brake light switch since your brake lights are working. Once you have it in your hand, you can examine it and hopefully figure out the best way to unplug and remove the original.

Also, if you have a replacement in hand, you can ask a friend or family relative if they could help.

You could also bring the switch to a local garage and ask if one of the mechanics could come to your house to swap the switch, explaining that the car is immobile, and you really can't afford a tow for a simple job. You might get lucky.

Look online for a local mobile mechanic to come to your house.

Here's the 2017 FSM for the brake pedal switches. Should be the same for the second gen Murano.

Good luck.

Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Order the new one. BTY, you need the "Brake Pedal Position Switch", not the brake light switch since your brake lights are working. Once you have it in your hand, you can examine it and hopefully figure out the best way to unplug and remove the original.

Also, if you have a replacement in hand, you can ask a friend or family relative if they could help.

You could also bring the switch to a local garage and ask if one of the mechanics could come to your house to swap the switch, explaining that the car is immobile, and you really can't afford a tow for a simple job. You might get lucky.

Look online for a local mobile mechanic to come to your house.

Here's the 2017 FSM for the brake pedal switches. Should be the same for the second gen Murano.

Good luck.

Have a good day.
Hi PaulDay,

I appreciate the feedback and advice. Unfortunately, I cannot find any "Brake Pedal Position Switch " or "brake pedal switches" on my Nissan parts website. I found "Brake Light Switch", "Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Switch ASCD Cancel. Switch Speed CO. Switch Stop Lamp 99." and "Accelerator Pedal Sensor"...But as I said, no "Brake Pedal Position Switch " or "brake pedal switches".

https://parts.spinellinissan.com/pr...sition Switch&ukey_make=5802&ukey_model=90117

Thank you for your time and effort
 

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Hi PaulDay,

I appreciate the feedback and advice. Unfortunately, I cannot find any "Brake Pedal Position Switch " or "brake pedal switches" on my Nissan parts website. I found "Brake Light Switch", "Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Switch ASCD Cancel. Switch Speed CO. Switch Stop Lamp 99." and "Accelerator Pedal Sensor"...But as I said, no "Brake Pedal Position Switch " or "brake pedal switches".

https://parts.spinellinissan.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=Brake Pedal Position Switch&ukey_make=5802&ukey_model=90117

Thank you for your time and effort
Here's the part. As you can see, they don't even call it a Brake Pedal Position Switch, which is what it's called in the FSM:

25300-AT300 Genuine Nissan Part (nissanpartsdeal.com)
Rectangle Electronic device Metal Fashion accessory Automotive tire


Here's the diagram showing the proper part:

Switch - 2009 Nissan Murano SUV (nissanpartsdeal.com)

Look at box "I". Hover over the part numbers and then click for the full description for each part.

When looking for Murano parts and want the proper part # and name, you really need to use the diagrams to locate the part and then get the proper part number. As you've seen, searching for a "Brake Pedal Position Switch" got you nowhere. Seems there's a disconnect between the FSM's naming of parts and the service parts themselves.

This is not the first time I've run across this issue while looking for Murano parts. Now I just start my search on the above web site for the proper part number that I need.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

PS I still believe that this switch is the issue.
 
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