[FastEddy]

Im almost done now. Just need to make a few adjustments.

Due to the size of the amps I had no other choice but to mount them to the underside of the rear lid. I ran them for an hour at about 75% He-He and they were only slightly warm.

10" JL sub in a sealed box.
It fits nicely and can be slid back if needed so I can use the full back if needed.

You can see the bolts I used to hold the amps in. I have a cargo mat so they will never bee seen.

The ground and power fuses are mounted in the rear under the deck on the drivers side. I also have a fuse in the engine compartment.

The only non stealth part of the install other then the sub is tweeters in the rear doors. I wanted to get coaxial but the price was right for these so I used them. The shadows and flash makes it look like there is scratches and weird coloring on the door. I had to go out and look after I saw this pick. My heart was pounding thinking I messed up my doors somehow.

The front tweeters mounted as a direct fit into the stock Bose mounts. I did need to remove some plastic under the dash so the wire connectors to the tweeters had a little more room.

I shopped a lot of sales and got the amps used from a friend.

RF 800w 4 Chanel
JBL 600w 1 channel
JL 10" Sub
MB Quart 6.5 Component Front
MB Quart 6.5 Component Rear
PAC OEM1
PAC-AAI NIS
4 Gage Power Wire
8 Gage Ground
12 Gage Monster Speaker Wire
Lots of odds and ends.
Total cost $735.00

 

[ekka]

how does it sound compared to stock


and are you happy you did the mod ?

 

[FastEddy]

This is the first install Ive ever done.
There is no comparison to the stock setup.

Im still in the process of trying to find the best tuning setup for my personal taste. I believe my time in research and installation was well worth the effort.

Im still battling with 3 issues.

1- I have a noisy PAC-OEM unit.
Im getting a constant low frequency hum when the ignition it turned on with or without the head unit powered up. When I change the OEM location or rotate the unit the noise changes. It took 2 hours to track it down. Im going to contact PAC today to see if its a bad unit or if there is a way to insulate or ground it. All the power cables are on one side of the MO and the signal wires are on the other so there is no possibility that this is the issue.

2- I have an extremely faint altranator noise. Im going to ground the battery better and see if this eliminates the issue. If not I will get a filter.

Both noises are extremely faint but never the less there.

3- Tuning.
I have no clue as how to use the equipment I have installed. Its a long trial and error process to make all the possible changes and compare the results. As of now I believe I have all the major settings where they belong and its a matter of time and effort to get it dialed in to my liking.

LMFAO! Murphy caught up with me yesterday. While I was soaking up the bliss of my favorite CDs in the driveway, My CD CHANGER BIT THE DUST!. Yes, the textbook "Press Eject" nothing. "Load a Disk" Nothing. Tick, tick, tick. SOB! the motor on the changer went out. GO FIGURE. I just called Nissan and have an appointment on Friday to get it replaced. All they can get is a re manufactured unit and it will take up to 6 weeks to get my 6 best CD back. Thank god I have my Nano installed.

Im wondering if they are going to give me **** about having after market equipment installed on the head unit. If so, Ill be repaired with ammunition from this forum showing that its a known issue.

So, Yes, Im happy with the mods I made and will be even happier when the bugs are worked out.

 

[Eric L.]

The amp and sub, they might not even notice. But the PAC, with the wires hanging out, might not be so easy to hide. Keep in mind that *anything* remotely related to the broken part that you modified is subject to warranty void for that part (I think the CD changer and PAC count as "connected components", even though we both know that the PAC did not cause the failure.) Its a hassle, but warranties work like that.

This is the first install Ive ever done.
There is no comparison to the stock setup.

Im still in the process of trying to find the best tuning setup for my personal taste. I believe my time in research and installation was well worth the effort.

Im still battling with 3 issues.

1- I have a noisy PAC-OEM unit.
Im getting a constant low frequency hum when the ignition it turned on with or without the head unit powered up. When I change the OEM location or rotate the unit the noise changes. It took 2 hours to track it down. Im going to contact PAC today to see if its a bad unit or if there is a way to insulate or ground it. All the power cables are on one side of the MO and the signal wires are on the other so there is no possibility that this is the issue.

2- I have an extremely faint altranator noise. Im going to ground the battery better and see if this eliminates the issue. If not I will get a filter.

Both noises are extremely faint but never the less there.

3- Tuning.
I have no clue as how to use the equipment I have installed. Its a long trial and error process to make all the possible changes and compare the results. As of now I believe I have all the major settings where they belong and its a matter of time and effort to get it dialed in to my liking.

LMFAO! Murphy caught up with me yesterday. While I was soaking up the bliss of my favorite CDs in the driveway, My CD CHANGER BIT THE DUST!. Yes, the textbook "Press Eject" nothing. "Load a Disk" Nothing. Tick, tick, tick. SOB! the motor on the changer went out. GO FIGURE. I just called Nissan and have an appointment on Friday to get it replaced. All they can get is a re manufactured unit and it will take up to 6 weeks to get my 6 best CD back. Thank god I have my Nano installed.

Im wondering if they are going to give me **** about having after market equipment installed on the head unit. If so, Ill be repaired with ammunition from this forum showing that its a known issue.

So, Yes, Im happy with the mods I made and will be even happier when the bugs are worked out.

 

[FastEddy]

I hear you loud and clear on that!
My hope is that they will want to collect on the hour of installation time for there mechanic and will over look it.

The PAC unit cant be seen where I have it mounted. If the mechanic doesn't look at or notice the piggyback connectors (Long Shot) there may not be an issue.

Im going to cross my fingers and hope they just do the right thing. The service guy knows its an issue and said as much on the phone. He didn't ask that I bring it in so they could look at it. He just said he has some on order and to bring it in on Friday to get it exchanged.

Ill let you know what comes of this.

 

[Krzydmnd]

a few pointers on getting good sound w/ what you've done...

Set the stock radio at zero for everything, balance/fade/bass/treble.

Setting Volume levels...

Turn the amps gains down low then turn the H/U speaker volume to about 3/4 of it's max on the dial. Set one 'channel' (front or rear) at a time by slowly raising the gain on the amp until you start to get distortion from the speaker. Back it off just a bit from this distortion point. Unplug the RCA's for the channel you just set and then follow the same process for the other channel. Plug the RCA's back in and you've got a good volume level for the setup. 3/4 volume leaves you enough headroom for low volume sources (crappy CD's, etc).

If your speaker amp has separate gain controls for front and rear you should use that as the fader instead of the head unit. This is one of the critical sound stage controls. You should have someone else adjust the gain as you sit in a driving position in the front seat. You'll want them set so that when your head is at a normal driving position you can't tell if the sound is coming from the front or the back. It should be a full sound like its coming at you from the sides. These are very minor adjustments and won't really affect the volume levels you set earlier. With the 'click' fader setting on the H/U you'll most likely miss the sweet spot. You should only notice a front/rear affect when you move your head forward and backward.

Turn you volume up to a loud but not unbearable level and then set the SUBWOOFER amp gain so it's thumpin' hard. As you lower the volume to normal listening levels you should find a sweet spot for the bass w/ a little gain tweeking.

Balance will have to be controlled from the H/U but is a little easier to get this right. Mine is at zero and sounds good but you may want to go one click to the passenger side if you hear your driver speakers louder than the others. Same idea, perfect balance so you cant tell where it's coming from.

Now w/ the stock H/U and the flat response to the amps should sound pretty decent but you may want to tweak the treble and maybe the bass control just a little bit. NOT TOO MUCH.

I installed a 7 band dial controlled EQ after I upgraded amp/speakers because I just couldn't get a decent sound w/ just simple bass/treble settings.

DISCLAIMER: This is how I've set up my car audio and it works for me. Some may have other opinions or suggestions and they may certainly be valid. Do some research and most importantly, listen to what sounds good to you. No one can really tell you HOW your audio should sound, but w/ these tips it might help you FIND the sound you are after.

 

[ekka]

This is the first install Ive ever done.
There is no comparison to the stock setup. So, Yes, Im happy with the mods I made and will be even happier when the bugs are worked out.

Bad luck about the CD changer, always test your patience when these types of events happen when carrying out mods. The effort you have gone to must mean you value a superior audio experience

Relative to other vehicles I've owned I am reasonable happy with the standard BOSE unit but will look at tweaking a few things such as the front tweeters and the location of the sub.

You propably share a few common traits with other members on the forum that the rewards on the path to perfection is in the journey, the finish line is the punctuation mark.

:7:

 

[ekka]

a few pointers on getting good sound w/ what you've done...

Hi Eric

This is a good post on setting up a system, can this find it's way into the knowledge base, indexing system or maybe an audio FAQ

 

[jaak]

Replace "3/4 of Dial" with volume setting 22, if you have the Bose.

Depending on the source, that's likely the optimum point where distortion is low on the head unit. Around 24 it starts to become noticable.

I've looked at this with a test CD and an Oscilloscope in FFT mode to detect the distortion products.

 

[FastEddy]

I spent quite a bit of time last night following the procedures listed above.

I was close to where I needed to be when I started but I have to say it does sound much better now. As we all know its the fine tuning and little details that make the difference.

Im going to spend some time tonight on trying to find the proper X-over points. Im trying to find the sweet spot to give me just a little more mids.

I haven't heard back from PAC in the noisy OEM1 yet. I was told there is a filter I can use on the RCAs out of the OEM that will help. Again the noise isn't bad but it is there never the less. Im hoping to kill it at the source rather then trying to cover it up.

I was able to get rid of the alternator noise with a good ground from the battery to the chassis.

Thank you gentlemen for the great info to help get me dialed in on the setup of the head and amps.

-Ed

 

[Tyler_Canada]

Only one other thing: be careful if you set everything up with a quiet CD. My system was tweaked using a quiet CD, and when I put in a loud one I almost blew my front window out.

 

[FastEddy]

Brought the MO in today to get the radio replaced. They had no issue with the PAC units and replaced it. ** Kind of***

They had it all day then called me at 6:15 and told me they ordered the wrong one. No cassette..... They are putting it back together and will order another for next Friday.

Go figure......

 

[Russellshome]

What was your best methods for running the power wire from battery back to amp ? I am working on replacing that worthless tire sub last piece of the puzzle is just how a guy gets that power wire thru without drilling holes. Thx in advance 2017 Murano Bose with navigation.