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After catching up on everyone else's posts, I just wanted to update regarding the issues I've had to deal with on my Mo... Had it for over 6 months now, and "04 SL w/ touring package, mileage is about 3800... Here goes:

- after 2k miles, wouldn't start and had to have it towed to dealer, thought it was the alternator, but they said it was a defective battery, wish I could really tell what was replaced.

- have had steering/allignment issue repaired 3 times, seemed it would be off every few weeks... It had a severe knock sound when I would turn the wheel and pin it left to right and back, while not moving... Third time I took it in I got the svc. mgr. to drive it with me and he finally got what I was talking about... I was close to looking into my state lemon law guidelines... Seems to be ok for now.

- Gas mileage is far below what I was told and what I anticipated... According to the computer display, it averages between 13.2 and 15.4... That seems right when I try to go as far as possible on a full tank, fill up, and do the math...

I do a mix of city driving and weekend highway trips... Took it in for it's first oil change yesterday, mgr. said engine still needs to be broken in... Overall, I love the Mo, as long as it does what it is supposed to do... Hopefully most of the kinks are worked out... I just want better mileage... I'd be happy to share any info or hear some feedback from you guys... Thanks, I love this site!
 

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Shame about that many problems on a new vehicle, hopefully you can get some trouble free miles now.

Mileage will improve as the engine breaks in, mine has increased by approx. 4 mpg recently. This is highway only however, I don't bother tracking city or mixed driving as conditions are too inconsistent ... cold starts, stop and go rush hour driving etc.
 

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For your alignment problems, ask the dealer about the steering bolt TSB - a loose bolt will cause your alignment to wander.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Wonder if Flea powder would work on "Door Ticks" ?



:2: The GRIP
 

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NYMO said:
- after 2k miles, wouldn't start and had to have it towed to dealer, thought it was the alternator, but they said it was a defective battery, wish I could really tell what was replaced.
NYMO, I removed your name from the Alternator Failure List as it apparently was a bad battery instead.
 

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So this then presents the question.... How many alternators have been cooked because the battery was bad?

And if the battery is not replaced when the alternator is, does it then work on cooking the second perfectly good alternator?
 

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My problems so far 03 with 22,000 MI: Clear coat on the Grill flaking off (Replaced under Warranty) 2 small rust spots on the roof with no visable impact (haven't had the dealer look at it yet) The fuel Econo reads 99.9(dealer seed this needs to be reset periodicly) and oh yea the rear diferential remaind locked and caused damage to the front diferential and drive shaft.(Waiting to be repaired) other than that I love my MO.
 

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jaak said:
So this then presents the question.... How many alternators have been cooked because the battery was bad?

And if the battery is not replaced when the alternator is, does it then work on cooking the second perfectly good alternator?
NYMO had originally asked to have his name added to the Alternator Failure List, but his post at the beginning of this thread seems to say that the alternator was not replaced, only the battery.

I've asked before in the Testing the Alternator thread whether a bad battery could cause the alternator to fail, and I believe the answer was no.

After my alternator failed, I asked them to make sure the battery was good and was told it was. It was not replaced, but I would consider doing so if people thought it was worthwhile.

It would certainly help explain the repeat alternator failures if bad batteries helped lead to the failures and the batteries were not replaced.
 

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Well I'm certainly no expert on this, so the only thing I can think of is if there's a bad cell in the battery that's causing it to draw too much current from the regulator, causing it to overheat and fail.

If this was the case, I'd expect the electrolyte to be bubbling off and the levels dropping.

I agree, it's not likely the problem, but it was a thought...

Now if it was replaced and the battery seemed to be having troubles, I could see it...

There's many potential things that could happen. In an extreme, I could see bad alternator damages good battery, is replaced and damaged battery cooks new alternator.

Or more likely, design, manufacturing or parts issue, causing a number of them to fail. It's not uncommon in power electronics for the people assembling the device to not apply thermal conductive compound correctly, causing a situation where the active components are disappating the heat through the heatsink, and eventually failing as a result.

So you can have a great design, but someone on the line, not putting the gook that makes the thermal bond, in the right place, or not enough of it, or not aligining the metal parts correctly so they bond with no gap. And then, you have failures....
 

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If one WERE to replace the battery, which would you suggest? And should it be a sealed type?
 

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zofsuvs said:
If one WERE to replace the battery, which would you suggest? And should it be a sealed type?
If I were to replace my battery out of warranty, I would skip the Nissan one and go straight to an Optima Red Top. Its among the best starting battery you can buy.
 

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Thanks Eric. I see that it's a sealed type. I'll look to see if it can be found locally. I already have over 47K miles on my Murano, maybe it's time for a new bat.

By the way, two days ago my Murano started up reluctantly and afterwards I noticed that the compass would only display S, SW or W regardless of which direction I was headed. Restarting the vehicle corrected it. Seems like possibly a sign the battery is starting to go. Can't afford another alternator failure.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Sealed vs Unsealed

Down her where it's HOT Lack of water is the #1 killer of batteries. Sealed is not completely sealed. It has very very small vents so that the case doesn't fail from pressure that occurs as the gasses in the batter expand with temperature. The manufacturers include a "catalyst like" material to re-condense the water vapor back into the cell.

HOWEVER their is still a net loss of water over time, IF the temps are extra high.

MB has non vented Batteries on all their cars (at least up to my last one a couple of years ago)

I recommend Caps so you can check and add water if required, At least in this area. It is a little extra work but I think it's worth it. That my quarters worth. GRIP :D
 

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If I understand correctly, the Optima Red Top does not use acid submerged plates like a normal battery, but rather a conductive medium using a sort of gel. The gel probably is more resistant to evaporation than a normal battery.
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Yeah the Optima is not only sold at exotic mod shops either. You can pick it up at your local Sears, Kragen, or Autozone. I've even seen it at Costco.
 

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"The gel probably is more resistant to evaporation than a normal battery."


It better be.
I don't have any spare gel to refill it.......

Homer
 

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Mr. 3 K, 3/3/5. 5K,10/5/7
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Homer

I have some, do you like Orange or Strawberry? GRIP :D
 
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