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Discussion Starter #1
2005 nissan murano, 130k miles, cold start on a rainy day 40f

what is going on here...
51222
 

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Should be easy to tell if gas is actually coming out of your tail pipe - the smell of fuel. Usually you either get black smoke-fuel, grey/blueish smoke-oil or white smoke-coolant if you suspect some kind of fluid is coming out of your tail pipe. Aside from the normal water - also white smoke but not excessive. Its a bad sign - engine related issue. Your CAT converter will also be short lived.
 

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Check engine oil level weekly, at the same time, after the car has been sitting for at least 8 hours. Keep a record of the levels. A history of the car would be great (Only owner, full maintenance performed...).

Was this the first startup in the morning? How long was the car sitting idling before you noticed the two spots?

First startup in the morning, stand at the rear of the car and have someone start the car, unless you have remote start. Take close note of the very first color of the exhaust when starting and how long it lasts before exhaust clears.

Does the same thing happen after the car is warmed up and left idling for the same amount of time? Park in a different spot after a good run. Wait 15 minutes and start the car, standing at the rear to observe the exhaust, and let it idle for that same amount of time. Look to see if there's the same spots.

IF you're only seeing this at first cold startup and it only lasts for several seconds, I would suspect a slightly worn valve stem seal or two, or some other issue that is retaining oil up in the heads, or even one head.

Let us know what your future observations are. The more info, the more likely you'll get the proper solution.

Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Check engine oil level weekly, at the same time, after the car has been sitting for at least 8 hours. Keep a record of the levels. A history of the car would be great (Only owner, full maintenance performed...).

Was this the first startup in the morning? How long was the car sitting idling before you noticed the two spots?

First startup in the morning, stand at the rear of the car and have someone start the car, unless you have remote start. Take close note of the very first color of the exhaust when starting and how long it lasts before exhaust clears.

Does the same thing happen after the car is warmed up and left idling for the same amount of time? Park in a different spot after a good run. Wait 15 minutes and start the car, standing at the rear to observe the exhaust, and let it idle for that same amount of time. Look to see if there's the same spots.

IF you're only seeing this at first cold startup and it only lasts for several seconds, I would suspect a slightly worn valve stem seal or two, or some other issue that is retaining oil up in the heads, or even one head.

Let us know what your future observations are. The more info, the more likely you'll get the proper solution.

Have a good day.
thank you for your response,

i have been monitoring my oil levels, and i usually have to add a quart every 2000- 2500km, or between an oil change.
just today for the first time I was able to notice blue smoke out of my tail pipe, its worse when the car is warming up but when its fully warmed up its much less. no big clouds of smoke.
i also noticed the smoke does not start right away maybe 5-10 seconds after a cold start which leads me to believe its a ring problem

i have owned the car for about 4 years now. it did alot of small town driving 3-5km before i owned it.
as far as maintenance, its hard to say...first owner was a lady, and then an older couple.

for the time i have had it I have had to replace the oil cooler gasket, repair the alternator, a tie rod and ball joint, spark plugs, caliper, exhaust repairs, and all fluids have been replaced and some other minor repairs.

I currently have a P0420, it has been like this for a while..i never bothered with it because of the oil consumption. the bank 2 (rad) cat seems to need replacing but it not worth it if this engine is on the way out. i did have a cracked flex pipe and a hole in the resonator that got fixed last year ( could this cause the cats to fail?)

i also get decent highway mileage, about 23 to 24mpg if I baby it, city driving around 17-18.5 mpg. much worse at the moment with winter tires on.

thank you
Johan
 

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From what I'm reading, I would say that the rings are worn. Worn valve seals or oil up in the heads would cause blue smoke as soon as the engine is started.

I would try something like this:


Can't hurt the engine anymore then what's done. Might even help with the cats. Cat's are failing due to excessive oil going thru the combustion chambers. The excessive oil is plugging up the cats. It will only get worse. Don't waste your time replacing them unless you replace the engine with one that doesn't burn oil.

Sorry couldn't be better news, but it sounds like you got some good use out of it over the last four years.

Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
From what I'm reading, I would say that the rings are worn. Worn valve seals or oil up in the heads would cause blue smoke as soon as the engine is started.

I would try something like this:


Can't hurt the engine anymore then what's done. Might even help with the cats. Cat's are failing due to excessive oil going thru the combustion chambers. The excessive oil is plugging up the cats. It will only get worse. Don't waste your time replacing them unless you replace the engine with one that doesn't burn oil.

Sorry couldn't be better news, but it sounds like you got some good use out of it over the last four years.

Have a good day.
i used engine restore for a v6 about 2 oil changes ago and made no difference, the car doesnt feel weak, it accelerates pretty good, and there is no engine noise and it doesn't overheat.
how could these leak additives make any difference? i recently switched to 10w40 and doesnt seem no make any difference either.

thank you

edit: thoughts on high mileage oils?
im driving this until it blows up.
 

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It sounds more like you might have a scored cylinder wall instead of worn rings.

Scored cylinder walls will not respond to any oil sealing treatment. There's quite a few things that can cause wall scoring, from bad oil channel that directs oil onto the lower cylinder walls, to a mechanical issue, or even a manufacturing defect/issue.

The only way you'll really know why it's burning oil is to rebuild it. I agree, drive it until is won't start, which hopefully will be in your driveway.

Also, if the heavier oil didn't make any difference, go back to the 10w30 weight. 40w is too thick for these engines and can cause issues in the future.

Have a good day.
 

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I have seen reports that sometimes a damaged catalytic converter's contents can get sucked back into the engine causing excessive wear and higher oil consumption...
This is usually a downward spiral, where oil consumption will steadily increase, relative to how many miles are driven as more and more particles are sucked back into the cylinder chambers.

He seems to have a pretty predicable amount of oil being burned, meaning the condition doesn't seem to be getting worse, which leads me to believe it's lower cylinder wall scoring of some kind.

Have a good day.
 

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My guess is that it would be good to make sure the cats are replaced, and then to just feed it oil as needed. Oil is cheap, and a quart every 2000-2500 KM isn't enough to require a rebuild at this point. Unless oil consumption increases quickly, you ought to have 2-3 years of service left in that engine.
 

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@danker16 mentioned having to add a quart of oil every 1200 -1500 miles (2000- 2500 km), which is about >3 quarts for each 5k oil change. This seems to be somewhat on the higher side from my experience with my '03... I only burned around 1/2 quart per 5k miles.
 

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My guess is that it would be good to make sure the cats are replaced, and then to just feed it oil as needed. Oil is cheap, and a quart every 2000-2500 KM isn't enough to require a rebuild at this point. Unless oil consumption increases quickly, you ought to have 2-3 years of service left in that engine.
Oil burning is one of the causes of premature cat failure, along with using low grade gas for the life of the engine. That's why I stated don't bother changing them unless you're taking care of the oil burning issue first. You're just throwing good money down the drain, considering labor costs.

@danker16 mentioned having to add a quart of oil every 1200 -1500 miles (2000- 2500 km), which is about >3 quarts for each 5k oil change. This seems to be somewhat on the higher side from my experience with my '03... I only burned around 1/2 quart per 5k miles.
Like I stated, consistently adding the same amount per oil change over 4 years. A little excessive I agree, but hasn't been increasing. Rings/upper cylinder walls will continue to deteriorate, slowing increasing oil consumption over time.

Have a good day.
 

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thank you for your response,

i have been monitoring my oil levels, and i usually have to add a quart every 2000- 2500km, or between an oil change.
just today for the first time I was able to notice blue smoke out of my tail pipe, its worse when the car is warming up but when its fully warmed up its much less. no big clouds of smoke.
i also noticed the smoke does not start right away maybe 5-10 seconds after a cold start which leads me to believe its a ring problem

i have owned the car for about 4 years now. it did alot of small town driving 3-5km before i owned it.
as far as maintenance, its hard to say...first owner was a lady, and then an older couple.

for the time i have had it I have had to replace the oil cooler gasket, repair the alternator, a tie rod and ball joint, spark plugs, caliper, exhaust repairs, and all fluids have been replaced and some other minor repairs.

I currently have a P0420, it has been like this for a while..i never bothered with it because of the oil consumption. the bank 2 (rad) cat seems to need replacing but it not worth it if this engine is on the way out. i did have a cracked flex pipe and a hole in the resonator that got fixed last year ( could this cause the cats to fail?)

i also get decent highway mileage, about 23 to 24mpg if I baby it, city driving around 17-18.5 mpg. much worse at the moment with winter tires on.

thank you
Johan
On thing that I forgot to mention was to check/change the PCV valve. A plugged or restricted PCV valve or hose will also cause an engine to burn oil. Just a thought to check.

Have a good day.
 

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In my state I can't pass emissions inspection testing with a P0420 code. @danker16 stated he's had the P0420 code for awhile -- does Canada have emissions inspection testing?
 

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There is a work around on that P0420 if you still wanna drive your car. Depending on the condition of your CAT, if its not yet rattling when you shake it, you should add the antifouler on your O2 sensors on both front and rear banks. I think its reachable from below. Easy quick fix and usually works.

On your oil consumption, I would just keep filling it up until the car dies. Like Pilgrim said, oil is cheap. You probably have a couple of more years with that car if you don't mind adding oil often. Just use the cheapest 5w-30 or 10w-30 you can get. These engines are known to burn oil found in the maxima, altima, and z.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There is a work around on that P0420 if you still wanna drive your car. Depending on the condition of your CAT, if its not yet rattling when you shake it, you should add the antifouler on your O2 sensors on both front and rear banks. I think its reachable from below. Easy quick fix and usually works.

On your oil consumption, I would just keep filling it up until the car dies. Like Pilgrim said, oil is cheap. You probably have a couple of more years with that car if you don't mind adding oil often. Just use the cheapest 5w-30 or 10w-30 you can get. These engines are known to burn oil found in the maxima, altima, and z.
any recommendations which antifouler would work best? i might try this and while im at it ill get a bore scope camera and have a look. the problem will be to loosen the sensor...
 
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