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I'm currently getting 8.4 mpg. I average around 10 usually which is terrible. My dte will show like 182 then drive less than half mile and it goes to 178. A couple weeks ago I took a hour trip. Car was driving fine til I got to the interstate went about 80 few minutes in car seemed to lose some power. Thought it was going to die kept running but decelerated even though I had cruise control on. I was around 75 couldn't get it up to 80 again it kept cutting out the more I pushed on the gas pedal. So I stayed at 75 for about 20 miles it does same thing I'm going around 70 won't go back up to 75 keeps bogging down and wanting to cut out. I get to my destination let it sit for about 6 hours drive home and for the most part it drove fine I had no problems getting back up to 80 but I wasn't going to push it. The car doesn't accelerate very well ever since I bought it I have to have the pedal pushed in about 1/4 the way for it to accelerate really at all and it still doesn't seem right. If I go passed about 1/4 down pushing pedal it starts to cut out and I can't even pass a car next to me. I had check engine light codes checked while back it was for an evap leak but the person said it was probably bad gas or loose gas cap. Please help. My uncle thinks it's the fuel pump. Pl
 

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I don't see any mention of your getting codes read on the car.

Unless you have a flat tire, the FIRST step in diagnosing any new car problem is code reading, period. Until you have that info you have no idea what you're dealing with.

I recommend buying an OBDII code reader, as it will work on every car you own for the future and you can get a decent one for under $100 at most auto parts stores. In the meantime, many stores like AutoZone will read the codes for free - they know it's a good way to make friends and sell parts. Something like this: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/code-reader/great-neck-code-reader/462979_0_0 although there are plenty that cost more and some which cost less. (Here's one at $50: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/code-reader/autel-autolink-code-reader/222492_0_0 )

Disregard what your uncle thinks. I'm sure he means well, but without the code info he could have said muffler bearings and it would fit just as well.

Get the codes read, and the step after that is to interpret what they mean - which is not always obvious. For example, you might get a code that says "misfire cylinder 3." That's helpful, but it doesn't tell you WHY the misfire occurred. It also doesn't tell you what part is responsible. Spark plug? Coil? Can't tell, but it gets you closer.

Report the results, please...and let's see if we can help.
 
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