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Discussion Starter #1
Some people asked me to be sure to post when I started to replace the Bose stereo in my Murano, so here I am! Anyway, to establish some initial key points, the Bose radio can not be replaced to this date. If you wish to install an aftermarket stereo in a different location, you can do this. You just can't replace the Bose stereo. For my system, I decided to use the Bose HU and replace everything else--amps, and speakers. Since others on this board have installed Infinity Kappa Components with no problems, I decided to use these, not to mention the awesome output they have. I also have a pair of Kappa 2-ways for matching rear fill in the doors as well. My system is designed with the following:

Amps:
MTX 801D (800 x 1 watts @ 2ohms) (For subs)
MTX 684 (75 x 4 watts RMS) (For mids/highs)

Power/Wiring:
Stinger 4AWG Custom Pro Kit
Stinger 1 Farad Capacitor
Stinger Hyper Series RCA Cables

Speakers:
Front: Infinity Kappa 60.5cs Component System
Rear: Infinity Kappa 62.5i 2-way co-axial speaker

Subs:
Two 12" Kicker CompVR Dual 2-ohm models. (Final impedance: 2-ohms when wired together.)
Ported Box tuned at 38hz.

I will try to post pictures if the board will let me. If I can't, I will need someone's help with hosting them.

First picture shows (as best I could) where I ran the power wire through the fire-wall. There is a rubber boot to the left of the brake master cylinder. I found it was easiest to remove the intake tube inbetween the filter housing and the throttle body. To do this, loosen a band-type clamp on each end, then move it out of the way. You can also remove the crankcase breather hose from the intake tube to completetly remove it from the vehicle but you don't have to do this. It's all up to you.

Moving on, i cut a small "+" sign with a razor blade at the top portion of the boot. You should then be able to push the power wire straight through. If you feed enough through, it should start to stick out from beneath the driver's side dashboard area.

Now that you have the wire through the fire wall, it is time to run it to the back of the vehicle. This is one of the easiest vehicles I have dealt with in terms of ease of panel removal. All of these came off relatively easy with no excessive force applied or broken clips. Remove these panels in the following order: Driver side kick panel, driver side door sill panel, rear left passenger door sill panel, and then the left seat belt shroud in-between the front and rear panels.

Once you get these panels up, peel back the carpet and you will see a nice little channel to run the power wire in between the white plastic wire harness cover, and the padded material towards the inside. You'll see this on the second picture. Now you just run it to the back and when you get to the rear seat area, look under the rear left seat and you will see a cut in the carpet--use this to pull the wire through to get into the rear hatch area. What you do from here all depends on where your amps are mounted. I wanted to have the simplest installation without ANY permanent modifications to the vehicle--no stock wires are cut and the only thing that is tampered with are the screws going into the back seat back area.

As far as mounting the amps go, I found that there is virtually no place to mount the amps without sacrificing some type of feature in the rear hatch. If you look at where I mounted my MTX 801D, this is damn near the only place I could find it to go--there is still a catch to this one as well. When ever the seat is folded down, the little spring-loaded cover at the bottom of the back-side will not let you recline the seat back because it gets under the amp. The solution to this is that every time you fold the seat forward then move it back up, hold the spring-loaded board out so it will clear the amp. Since we don't mess with the rear seats much, I don't think it will be much of a problem.

Well I think this wraps it up for Part I. Next part will be running the new speaker wire to the Infinity's. (That will be interesting.) If need to await the arrival of my MTX 684 amp before I do this.

For some of you wondering how I tapped into the stock harness, I have come ahold of a "prototype" interface that plugs into the harness where the Bose amp currently is. With this, you have 4-channel RCA output, with no loss of fade or balance control, and a remote power wire output for your aftermarket amps. If this works good, I'm assuming that this item will be sold soon--somewhere between $30 and $40.

Take care for now.
Dustin
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I guess my camera take pictures that are too big to upload. Can anyone help?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Figured it out...

Here's the engine pic of where the wire is ran through the fire-wall...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Last one of the same with the seat up, which the spring-board conseals the wires on the bottom....
 

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I see you finally chose 4awg wire. I knew you were going over the edge with 2 or 0 gauge. Looks nice.
 

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Thanks Dookie, for the great detail on this. This is exactly what I have been looking for.

One question: the hole in the firewall you used: was it surrounded by a orange/yellow/biege grommet, about 1/2 way down the firewall (as seen from the engine bay)? Or am I looking at the wrong place?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you're looking at the engine bay, it is at the very top right of it, just to the right of the brake booster.
 

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SHIFT_FASTER
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Thanks again. I was trying for the wrong hole, from the inside, which made it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cut a "+" sign in the boot and you might want to use a philips screwdriver to aid in the insertion of the power wire from the engine bay side. If you feed enough through, look from the bottom of the dash on the driver's side and you should be able to see, and pull, the wire. From there it is smooth sailing. For ease, remember to loosen the two band clamps on the plastic intake tube that is between the filter and the throttle body, then move it out of the way. You can leave the electrical connector (MAS air) attached.
 

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Thanks...

Dookie,

After looking and sweating and busting knuckles for an hour, I decided to search the forums, and thank goodness you took a picture of your wiring through the firewall...

I just ran the wire, and the rest of the job is inside the car work...

You saved me a whole day or even kept me from giving up completely...

Thanks,

Jay
 
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