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I was leaving a store, and when I switched from reverse to Drive, it started going like at 10 miles per hour. I drove home like that, and next day I turned the car on again, and was driving fine. I took it to a transmission place, and the guy told me the transmission was bad ; now is driving in "safe mode" he said. The check engine codes he said were : PO746,PO868,P1800,P1700. He turned off the check engine light, and now it only reads PO746 and PO868. Other mechanic told me the other numbers will come out again, when the computer remember the problem again. So, Im not driving it, because I dont want to get stuck in the Rd again. But Im afraid of spending $5k . And for how long it can drive in safe mode?? I think the person who sell it to me did that ; turned off the light, and didn't mention the problem. Now Im stuck with a problem.
 

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My 2003 AWD started throwing P0868 persistently possibly about two years ago, along with five inactive P0746 codes daily. I also had P1778 (step motor) codes a lot. My issue seemed to be worst at a cold start up, after the car had been parked for about five hours. After warmed up, I had to perform a pre-normal driving ritual for about ten minutes before things returned to normal. I drove it like that for at least two years over maybe 60,000 miles. If you haven't done so, you might have a trusted mechanic drop the tranny pan and check (and change) the internal filter for obstructions, typically in the form or sludge or metal shavings, and then new CVT fluid will be added once everything's put back together.

The pan magnets will also reveal if there's a significant problem with metal shavings. Changing my fluid three times in about three months seemed to help the CVT problem, then the engine blew a head gasket, so it hasn't moved since mid-April 2021.

This thread/post shows my CVT fluid change and massive amounts of metal shavings on the pan magnets and caked onto the mesh-screen of the internal filter..

EDIT: BTW, it's also a possibility that you have another issue besides the CVT fluid line pressure and possible problems with VIAS solenoids (if P1700/P1800 return.) A failing throttle body or tear in the rubber-ribbed air intake duct could cause acceleration issues such as you've described. A bad throttle body and intake tears/looseness probably won't trigger a trouble code. I'd look more closely at the throttle body...
 

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I am not sure of the codes but the service manager told me that every possible code lit up and if I did not leave it now I might not make it home. The car would buck at low speeds and rpms also the down hill assist never worked. Never knew I had it till I got the new CVT and I thought something was wrong LOL. Hope this helps.
 

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I hear about it all the time. Two of the VLC only people I know who’ve had Muranos had the CVT die.
I don’t think basing it off of 2 people should count as hearing about it all of the time. Just saying…
 

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I have a 2015 Murano SV with 65000 miles. The transmission has died and since I am over 60,000 miles I don't think it will be covered under warranty .It is going to cost around $4000 to repair. It has been a very good car, not too many major repairs until now. Do I fix it or put a downpayment on a new car.


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did you ever have the CVT fluid changed or the CVT serviced? i have a hunch on something, i'll tell you after you answer this.
 

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did you ever have the CVT fluid changed or the CVT serviced? i have a hunch on something, i'll tell you after you answer this.
I had my MO's CVT Flush at about 27000 miles (did not want to wait for 30K miles). About a month and a half later, CVT F4 popped during the scan and led to Valve Body replacement. I have always wondered if the two events are related or it was just a pure coincidence!
 

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I have had four Nissans, two Muranos and two Maximas, and they all had over 100,000 miles on them when replaced. Our old 2011 Murano has 120,000 miles on it when we traded it in and the only problem was the failure of the AC clutch at a tad over 100,000 miles. Before replacing it I would contact Nissan Customer Relations and ask for help. They have stepped up with several owners and saved them a lot of money. It won't cost anything to try. If you deal with only one dealer it may help if they could assist with the problem.
 

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I have had four Nissans, two Muranos and two Maximas, and they all had over 100,000 miles on them when replaced. Our old 2011 Murano has 120,000 miles on it when we traded it in and the only problem was the failure of the AC clutch at a tad over 100,000 miles. Before replacing it I would contact Nissan Customer Relations and ask for help. They have stepped up with several owners and saved them a lot of money. It won't cost anything to try. If you deal with only one dealer it may help if they could assist with the problem.
Wondering, how often did you service your CVTs?


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I had my MO's CVT Flush at about 27000 miles (did not want to wait for 30K miles). About a month and a half later, CVT F4 popped during the scan and led to Valve Body replacement. I have always wondered if the two events are related or it was just a pure coincidence!
That's what i was getting at. It would be a rare occurance for any mechanic or the dealer to perform the CVT service "correctly" as per the mfg. My guess is the service to the CVT screwed it up
 

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Wondering, how often did you service your CVTs?

I did a drain and refill at around 75-80,000 miles in all of them. The procedure on the older Nissans was very easy, actually easier than changing the motor oil. The newer ones are a little more complicated but still doable in the driveway. I plan on doing the same thing on my Murano and Maxima.
 
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