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Discussion Starter #1
04 SL AWD - 212,000km

I've read about other people having this problem:
- stopped at a light,
- press the gas - car barely moves, engine revs very very slowly
- after about 10 seconds (seems like an eternity with traffic behind you) the Murano picks up and off you go
- drove regular speed with full power after the slow start at the lights
- this occurred at each and every light on the way home. If I didn't have to stop completely for a light or stop sign, the slow acceleration did not happen, the car drove normally.

Then,
- park the car (in my case at home), start it again, and the problem is gone

What I Did:
- checked the CVT fluid level as per instructions - found level between the two notches but fairly high up, bought some NS-2 fluid and added 500ml to bring it up to the very top.
- checked for engine codes - no codes

Question:
- Why did turning the car off and then on again seem to fix the problem?
- Is this a hint of a CVT problem or of a throttle position sensor problem? It seemed like the car didn't know I was pressing on the gas at the stop lights.

Thanks for any answers to the above. :27:
 

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So, I now see this is your major issue. I have no clue what caused it, but it sounds like something was reset by turning it off then restarting it.
 

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Sl-

Your MO went into "limp home" mode. This occurs when the engine's computer determines either a system or device is operating out of spec, so it reduces power to limit the potential for further damage. If it is not a major problem the system can be reset by turning off the engine and doing a restart.

I suggest finding a friend or auto parts store with an OBD reader and have them read the error code(s). Post the code(s) here and we can tell you exactly what occurred.

-njjoe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, thanks for the reply. As I said though, I pulled the codes when I got home and there were none. Also, the car drove full speed after taking so long to accelerate (80km/hr) so I don't think it was in that mode.
 

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Check out my thread on the issue:

http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/66-problems/18641-03-07-murano-acceleration-hesitation-rest-story.html

You won't read any codes because there are none stored in the ECM. The codes for the hesitation are stored in the Transmission Control Module (TCM). The Nissan Consult-II/III tool is the only thing that can pull the codes from the TCM.

Bottom line is, something inside your CVT is going bad. The TSB states you're supposed to swap out parts of the valve body to fix the hesitation issue. Check out the thread for the details. Hope you get it fixed. :(
 

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Probably the most major problem of the 1st generation Muranos. Even after nine years, the consensus is still out - whether it is the throttle body, the throttle body sensor, the pedal sensor, or the CVT. All have been replaced and have reported to "fix" the problem.
 

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Well...yes and no. At first I created a thread behind swapping out the TB and stated it fixed the hesitation issue. Then eventually it came back. According to Nissan, if you have the hesitation issue and see the CEL come on then you know it's the TB. But if you have the hesitation issue and don't see the CEL come on then you have to go for the codes in the TCM.

The thread with the mistake in it is here: http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/68-maintenance/16785-how-throttle-body-spark-plugs-firewall-valve-cover.html

I tried to update the oringal post but I can't do it cause I guess the edit timed out or something. I made a post towards the end that states the mistakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the excellent links, Warhammer. In one of your links there were two issues #1 press gas pedal -> RPM does not climb - this was my situation. I didn't notice a SES light. I'll have the TCM codes pulled soon, fingers crossed. I'm just out of the extended CVT warranty period, arggg :-(
 

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Good luck dude! Hopefully you get it fixed. It's indeed an issue that needs to be fixed but will cost a pretty penny depending on what you have done. Hopefully fixing only the valve body will fix it. Swapping out the whole CVT is extremely expensive. :(
 

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I know... I hate car payments... I hope I can get by without the CVT replacement - with the mileage I have on it, it's hard to say whether there is enough value in vehicle to put that much cash into it - but then what do you do, just scrap it? It's too pretty.
 

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04 SL AWD - 212,000km

I've read about other people having this problem:
  • stopped at a light,
  • press the gas - car barely moves, engine revs very very slowly
  • after about 10 seconds (seems like an eternity with traffic behind you) the Murano picks up and off you go
  • drove regular speed with full power after the slow start at the lights
  • this occurred at each and every light on the way home. If I didn't have to stop completely for a light or stop sign, the slow acceleration did not happen, the car drove normally.
Then,
- park the car (in my case at home), start it again, and the problem is gone

What I Did:
  • checked the CVT fluid level as per instructions - found level between the two notches but fairly high up, bought some NS-2 fluid and added 500ml to bring it up to the very top.
  • checked for engine codes - no codes
Question:
  • Why did turning the car off and then on again seem to fix the problem?
  • Is this a hint of a CVT problem or of a throttle position sensor problem? It seemed like the car didn't know I was pressing on the gas at the stop lights.
Thanks for any answers to the above. :27:
Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.

Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car
 

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Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.
Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car
 

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I had to join this chat to say a heart felt THANK YOU!!!
I had truly given up after my Murano was parked for over a month because of the acceleration problem (I was convinced that vehicle was gonna be the cause of my death) . After purchasing a TRODDLE body and a MAST AIR FLOW meter neither of which gave any changed result. Then changing the TRANSMISSION oil and not giving any positive results. Lastnight Apr. 14th 2020 I stumbled upon your article. Had my Ex Husband come and check it out this morning and sure enough this was the resolve to my PROBLEM. The Covid-19 pandemic is going on now so I'm unable to purchase the RIBBED HOSE so he taped it up with electrical tape and it's working purrrfect. I cannot THANK YOU enough. I hope this helps other persons. Sure wish I had found this before spending hundreds of $$$$. I pray God bless you in a very special way.
Ps. The jeep check engine light never came on, so that lead us to guess the problem.
 

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I had to join this chat to say a heart felt THANK YOU!!!
I had truly given up after my Murano was parked for over a month because of the acceleration problem (I was convinced that vehicle was gonna be the cause of my death) . After purchasing a TRODDLE body and a MAST AIR FLOW meter neither of which gave any changed result. Then changing the TRANSMISSION oil and not giving any positive results. Lastnight Apr. 14th 2020 I stumbled upon your article. Had my Ex Husband come and check it out this morning and sure enough this was the resolve to my PROBLEM. The Covid-19 pandemic is going on now so I'm unable to purchase the RIBBED HOSE so he taped it up with electrical tape and it's working purrrfect. I cannot THANK YOU enough. I hope this helps other persons. Sure wish I had found this before spending hundreds of $$$$. I pray God bless you in a very special way.
Ps. The jeep check engine light never came on, so that lead us to guess the problem.
yourself.
You can mail order that hose from many places online. just do that and install it
 

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That's a nice split you got there!!!
 

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Taped it up and test drive for an hour.
Problem never duplicated.
Ordered a new duct.
Very glad I didn't buy a new transmission.
This is the only thread that doesn't say TPS is Transmission or something else horrible.
Thanks folks.
 

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Ok so I am having the same exact issue. But..... it only happens in warmer weather. I see no cracks tears rips. At all anywhere! It started with it shutting itself down. Found a broken alternator bracket. Fixed that and it was fine. A year later this issue started with the delay on acceleration. It doesn’t run too great it has a heavy idle. I have no problems with shifting. No leaking of any sort anywhere. I’m at 168000 miles. I have replaced many different things. I can’t remember everything off the top of my head. Where else can I look to see if maybe something else is the issue. Before I try a tcm.
 

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Ok so I am having the same exact issue. But..... it only happens in warmer weather. I see no cracks tears rips. At all anywhere! It started with it shutting itself down. Found a broken alternator bracket. Fixed that and it was fine. A year later this issue started with the delay on acceleration. It doesn’t run too great it has a heavy idle. I have no problems with shifting. No leaking of any sort anywhere. I’m at 168000 miles. I have replaced many different things. I can’t remember everything off the top of my head. Where else can I look to see if maybe something else is the issue. Before I try a tcm.
Did you take the rubber boot off and check thoroughly? I had to because they were hidden in the grooves mostly.
 

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Did you take the rubber boot off and check thoroughly? I had to because they were hidden in the grooves mostly.
Oh yes and I had two other people check too just to be sure... we retightened everything and it seems a little better. But that happens for a few days normally and goes right back. So I’m going to check converters today with the heat gun along with spark and coils for any damage.
 
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