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I had to join this chat to say a heart felt THANK YOU!!!
I had truly given up after my Murano was parked for over a month because of the acceleration problem (I was convinced that vehicle was gonna be the cause of my death) . After purchasing a TRODDLE body and a MAST AIR FLOW meter neither of which gave any changed result. Then changing the TRANSMISSION oil and not giving any positive results. Lastnight Apr. 14th 2020 I stumbled upon your article. Had my Ex Husband come and check it out this morning and sure enough this was the resolve to my PROBLEM. The Covid-19 pandemic is going on now so I'm unable to purchase the RIBBED HOSE so he taped it up with electrical tape and it's working purrrfect. I cannot THANK YOU enough. I hope this helps other persons. Sure wish I had found this before spending hundreds of $$$$. I pray God bless you in a very special way.
Ps. The jeep check engine light never came on, so that lead us to guess the problem.
yourself.
You can mail order that hose from many places online. just do that and install it
 

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So I recently got a tune up and had them replace this very same piece under the hood. Complete difference behind the wheel, except I still have issues of high RPMs with no change of gear. Is that a sign of a gear slip or an issue with the sensors? Thanks in advance.
Remember, you don't have gears. You have constantly varying drive ratios caused by the pulleys in the tranny adjusting.

If you keep hard on the gas, the engine should fairly quickly rev to @6K RPM and stay there until you let up. (I always liked that!) Once you reach peak RPM your speed will keep increasing without the revs increasing.

OTOH, if you're not keeping the gas pedal down, the drive ratios should change so the RPM shouldn't need to peak.

What are the conditions under which the RPMs are high? Full throttle or part throttle?
 
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I found it immensely fun to nail that gas pedal down at the top of a freeway entrance ramp, watch the tach climb to 6,000 RPM and then watch the speedo continue to move while the revs hang in there at 6K. Made it easy to enter traffic moving as fast or slightly faster than the traffic, which is my preferred way to merge.

It's exactly what the car is built to do, but even so, it always was a bit strange to see no change in the tach while the speedo continued to climb.
 
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I'd remove it and take a good look at it. Cheap fix if you find a crack.

Great avatar, BTW. Party on!
 

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The good news is that the money wasn't wasted.

Have you had it checked for fault codes? There might be something going on with a sensor that's getting heated up on longer drives.
 

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Check the air intake hose, and check it thoroughly.
 

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Thanks for all the help tips here! Including the Amazon link. I was having issues with losing acceleration randomly, excessive gas use and just generally being “loud”. Spent $350 on fixing other components & it turned out to be the $35 part and 15 minutes of labor on my part. Huge crack in the original intake hose, honestly surprised the techs missed it in their “inspection”
Chances are they didn't know what to look for.

Every car has its common failure modes, and usually the dealer guys know them and can spot them quickly. Evidently they didn't know this one. But a specialized forum like this one will generally have info about the frequent failure items.

I remember when my daughter had a '91 Camaro; when we got it the tach read low by about 1/3. I found a Camaro forum where not only was the problem identified, but there was a long thread telling how to pull the tach, take it apart and replace the resistor that went bad. That solution worked perfectly, but there isn't a dealership in the world that would have known how to fix it - they'd just have replaced the tach. That's not a viable solution 20 years after the car was built.
 

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It's the air intake hose from air filter to engine.
 
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