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Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.

Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car
What did you replace
 

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Its in the post. Replaced the throttle body inlet. Wiggle the ribbed section with engine at idle. If your idle changes at all, you have a crack in between ribs. Need to replace that plastic air inlet. It cracks over time. Its only 85.00. It connects the air filter housing to the throttle body.
 

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So I recently got a tune up and had them replace this very same piece under the hood. Complete difference behind the wheel, except I still have issues of high RPMs with no change of gear. Is that a sign of a gear slip or an issue with the sensors? Thanks in advance.
 

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So I recently got a tune up and had them replace this very same piece under the hood. Complete difference behind the wheel, except I still have issues of high RPMs with no change of gear. Is that a sign of a gear slip or an issue with the sensors? Thanks in advance.
Remember, you don't have gears. You have constantly varying drive ratios caused by the pulleys in the tranny adjusting.

If you keep hard on the gas, the engine should fairly quickly rev to @6K RPM and stay there until you let up. (I always liked that!) Once you reach peak RPM your speed will keep increasing without the revs increasing.

OTOH, if you're not keeping the gas pedal down, the drive ratios should change so the RPM shouldn't need to peak.

What are the conditions under which the RPMs are high? Full throttle or part throttle?
 
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Remember, you don't have gears. You have constantly varying drive ratios caused by the pulleys in the tranny adjusting.

If you keep hard on the gas, the engine should fairly quickly rev to @6K RPM and stay there until you let up. (I always liked that!) Once you reach peak RPM your speed will keep increasing without the revs increasing.

OTOH, if you're not keeping the gas pedal down, the drive ratios should change so the RPM shouldn't need to peak.

What are the conditions under which the RPMs are high? Full throttle or part throttle?
Actually exactly what you had mentioned. Just when my foot was on the gas pedal did I see such high RPMs and to reach the desired speed. CVT, its convenient, I'm still adjusting, and thank you so much for the clarity.
 

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I found it immensely fun to nail that gas pedal down at the top of a freeway entrance ramp, watch the tach climb to 6,000 RPM and then watch the speedo continue to move while the revs hang in there at 6K. Made it easy to enter traffic moving as fast or slightly faster than the traffic, which is my preferred way to merge.

It's exactly what the car is built to do, but even so, it always was a bit strange to see no change in the tach while the speedo continued to climb.
 
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2012 Murano. 1962 Benson Gyrocopter.
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Enormous Thank You to Dantell!
Replacing the Air Intake Duct Assembly ($25 from Amazon) resolved the issue 100%. Checking the duct should be the first thing to troubleshoot the hesitation from a complete stop issue. My duct had several cracks, hidden out of sight, on the firewall side.
 

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Very interested in this post. I've got a 2010 Mo with just over 100K. It has exhibited the hesitation from stop a few times in the past years and is doing so now again... but the thing is that it only does it after driving at highway speeds for more than a couple of hours. This past week I drove from Michigan to Massachusetts in one shot (900 miles) at about 75mph average. I noticed the hesitation there all week. Drove back to Michigan and now it is doing it again.
This happened after previous trips as well... but after a few days it goes away. Couple of years back I brought it to the Nissan dealer and they could not reproduce the issue and were no help.
It seems weird to only have the issue after seriously long drives at highway speed. So, do you think this could be the same Intake Duct issue? I looked at it last night (wife had issues yesterday as well) and it looked okay, but I did not remove. Should I just replace and see how it goes?
 

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I'd remove it and take a good look at it. Cheap fix if you find a crack.

Great avatar, BTW. Party on!
 

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Party on Pilgrim!
Yeah, I checked Amazon and I've got one coming tomorrow for $27.55 delivered. Cheap indeed. I'll post my result.
 

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Here’s my 2 cents.
The Air Duct Hose Assembly comes with a hard plastic plenum attached to the side of the big hose. Mine was shipped with the plenum rotated 90 degrees from where it needed to be.
Now here’s how I replaced mine.
Under the hood:
Expand the small clamp on the hose that connects to the plenum ( pointing toward the front of the car) and slide it forward far enough to pull the hose off the plenum. Loosen the two big clamps, they’re attached to the big hose by a couple of nubs cast into the hose so there’s no need try to pull them out. The Mass Airflow Sensor’s cable has a plastic nub, zip tied to it, that plugs into a socket cast into the big hose. Pull the cable’s nub out of the big hose and very carefully disconnect the MAS cable from the air intake‘s lid, tape it up out of the way. Undo the 2 snaps holding the air cleaner lid to the lower air filter body, rotate it up and pull it off and out of the big hose. Pull the whole AirDuct Assembly out. Use it as a guide to make sure you have the plenum’s orientation correct. On the new Air Duct assembly I lubed both ends of the big hose and the plenum pipe with a little dish soap to ease assembly. Orient the clamps on the new duct so they’ll be easy to tighten once it’s installed. Slide the throttle body end on first, attach the plenum pipe and it’s clamp, then slide on the air cleaner lid. Reconnect the MAS cable to the air cleaner lid and plug the MAS cable’s nub into the big hose’s socket. Reinstall and re-clamp the air cleaner lid to the lower filter body. (This would have been a great time to replace the air filter too, oh well next time.) finish by tightening the big clamps and that’s about it. If it works like mine did you notice immediate improvement in acceleration too, and you’ll be rock’n on like Wayne, Garth and the boys are above.
Hope this helps.
 

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Zoonooz, great step by step! However, no joy. Found just a tiny crack in the duct. After replacement the Mo is doing the same thing. Slow start off a stop until about 20mph. No umph at all. Kinda dangerous.
Anyway, anyone have an idea what I should try next? MAF? CVT Fluid?
 

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The good news is that the money wasn't wasted.

Have you had it checked for fault codes? There might be something going on with a sensor that's getting heated up on longer drives.
 

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Zoonooz, great step by step! However, no joy. Found just a tiny crack in the duct. After replacement the Mo is doing the same thing. Slow start off a stop until about 20mph. No umph at all. Kinda dangerous.
Anyway, anyone have an idea what I should try next? MAF? CVT Fluid?
CVT fluid changes are never a bad idea with these cars, but don't replace parts that you aren't certain are broken. Do you have access to a scan tool that can read live data? If so, I'd suggest monitoring all the sensor readings when this problem happens. I'd also suggest monitoring the CVT fluid temperature during these events as well (...only higher-end scan tools usually have this capability, but the CVTz50 app can do this if you have an android phone and cheap OBDII adapter--it can also scan the TCM for trouble codes). The point is to see if anything looks out of the ordinary that can give you some direction in troubleshooting the root of the problem.
 

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CVT fluid changes are never a bad idea with these cars, but don't replace parts that you aren't certain are broken. Do you have access to a scan tool that can read live data? If so, I'd suggest monitoring all the sensor readings when this problem happens. I'd also suggest monitoring the CVT fluid temperature during these events as well (...only higher-end scan tools usually have this capability, but the CVTz50 app can do this if you have an android phone and cheap OBDII adapter--it can also scan the TCM for trouble codes). The point is to see if anything looks out of the ordinary that can give you some direction in troubleshooting the root of the problem.
Coffee, that is a great idea. This will be my first foray into doing some live reading. What cheap Bluetooth ELM327 OBD adapter do you recommend to use with CVTz50? Looks like the app is a bit finicky with versions.
 

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Okay so I just recently had ur same issue in a 05 nissan murano and I came here for answers. I tried my best to avoid the dealership all because I know they get expensive. So I did a lot of research and turned out my tranny needed to be relearned. Idk cause I recently bought it and I just know its been sitting awhile and battery was dead etc. But its runs good now.
 

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... turned out my tranny needed to be relearned.
Interesting... .how did you do that?

On a side note, I am waiting for my ELM327 adapter as quoted before. In the meantime, the Mo is getting better. Wife last reports it's about 85% of having it's former 'pep' back (from complete stops) after our long driving trip. This is similar to before... the problem surfaces after the long drive and then gradually goes away afterwards. The above quote makes me wonder about this 'learning' thing.

Anyone else have any thoughts?
"It's like a new pair of underwear, at first they're restrictive but then after a while they become a part of you."
 

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Believe it or not, the Murano really got back to about 99% of its former self on its own. Then, last Saturday we drove across the state. 2hrs there, hung around for 8hrs, and 2hrs back at about 80mph. And now she’s doing it again... wife describes it as “sluggish” off of stops.
Well, finally got my OBD2 check module in the mail and checked the Mo for codes with the CVTz50 app. Turns out I’ve got a CVT DTC : P1778 STEP MOTR/FNC code
I’ve done some initial checking. Sounds like Nissan will recommend a new CVT. Ouch!
but this thread here has some hope: P1778 got you down?
so what do you all think of the P1778 code and possible solutions?
 
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