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Researching:
Gears Magazine | Stop Wasting Money on Jatco CVT Stepper Motors
"Code P1778 is a very common code and very misleading. The factory manual describes it as, “P1778 Step Motor Circuit Intermittent.”
The set conditions listed in the factory manual are, “There is a great difference between the number of steps for the stepping motor and for the actual gear ratio.” And its lists of possible causes are stepper motor — that’s it; there’s nothing else on the list. This is why the stepper motor may be the most over-replaced part in a CVT.
Code P1778 means you have a ratio issue. The TCM isn’t seeing the ratio it’s commanding.
The TCM calculates this code based on the primary and secondary speed sensors. First make sure the speed sensor signals are good. If you have a speed sensor code, repair that problem first.
If the speed sensors are in good operating condition, you have an internal transmission issue. The most common issues that cause the P1778 code are flow control valve wear, pulley leaks, and a worn or sticky valve body.
The next Jatco CVT you get in with a stepper motor code, think twice before replacing the stepper motor. First figure out whether the code you have indicates a wiring issue or internal transmission problem."

My CVT Deterioration number is 2912. Way low.

Here's the output of the last 5 codes registered with the TCM: Notice theres a long window between them about 700 hours ago I had the 1778 also.
5 Past/Inactive DTC:
P0868 SEC/PRESS DOWN (Stored at: 683.7 warmed up run hours)
P0868 SEC/PRESS DOWN (Stored at: 687.8 warmed up run hours)
P1778 STEP MOTR/FNC (Stored at: 1461.3 warmed up run hours)
P0725 ENGINE SPEED SIG (Stored at: 1564.7 warmed up run hours)
P1778 STEP MOTR/FNC (Stored at: 2144.2 warmed up run hours)
CVT-A: 0 CVT-B: 0
Run hours (min 0, max 10922): 4621.3
Run hours (engine warmed up, min 0, max 10922): 2165.8

I'm wondering if I should just clear the code and see if it corrects again or comes back. Kinda a PITA since long trips will make it act up with no way to really tell what's doing it.

Anyone got more thoughts?
 

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Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.

Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car
Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.

Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car
I cannot thank you enough, Dantell! I have a 2010 Nissan Murano and had the exact same problem with the hesitation starting out at red lights. Took the car to the dealership and they charged me $126 to tell me they will "start" with my alternator for a cost of $1200. My husband put the alternator in himself, and it turns out it was NOT the alternator. My husband then replaced the fuel pump because you can't replace the fuel filter by itself. The problem continued. I then found this forum and we immediately checked the Intake Duct Hose as you suggested and noticed two large cracks. I ordered the part on Amazon for $23.99 and replaced the ripped part two days later. It has been several weeks and I have had NO hesitation when starting out from a stop. Had it not been for your post, we would still have the problem and much more cost as we replace parts. You saved us a ton of money and frustration. THANK YOU SOO MUCH!!!! You're awesome for posting this information. Thank you!!!
 

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There have been many recent reports lately like yours for 1st and 2nd gen Muranos that have had success with the same air intake duct replacement fix.

Others with similar drivability issues should check their air intake duct for cracks in the ribbed sections -- it's a cheap and easy fix that somehow is missed/overlooked by some professional mechanics and dealerships...
 
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04 SL AWD - 212,000km

I've read about other people having this problem:
  • stopped at a light,
  • press the gas - car barely moves, engine revs very very slowly
  • after about 10 seconds (seems like an eternity with traffic behind you) the Murano picks up and off you go
  • drove regular speed with full power after the slow start at the lights
  • this occurred at each and every light on the way home. If I didn't have to stop completely for a light or stop sign, the slow acceleration did not happen, the car drove normally.

Then,
- park the car (in my case at home), start it again, and the problem is gone

What I Did:
  • checked the CVT fluid level as per instructions - found level between the two notches but fairly high up, bought some NS-2 fluid and added 500ml to bring it up to the very top.
  • checked for engine codes - no codes

Question:
  • Why did turning the car off and then on again seem to fix the problem?
  • Is this a hint of a CVT problem or of a throttle position sensor problem? It seemed like the car didn't know I was pressing on the gas at the stop lights.

Thanks for any answers to the above. :27:
Start checking your power problems she might have power issues
 

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This morning on my way to work, I had stopped at the gate to punch the code to open it. I noticed my sensor lights turned on and that "hesitation" to move happened. Thank goodness I was at work so that creeping wasn't an issue being that parking was pretty much right there and no traffic. After work, I started her up and she started normally. It only started back after I stepped on the brakes to change it from reverse to drive that it happened again. Is my situation different from everyone else or did everyone receive the same sensor light issue?
52458
 

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This morning on my way to work, I had stopped at the gate to punch the code to open it. I noticed my sensor lights turned on and that "hesitation" to move happened. Thank goodness I was at work so that creeping wasn't an issue being that parking was pretty much right there and no traffic. After work, I started her up and she started normally. It only started back after I stepped on the brakes to change it from reverse to drive that it happened again. Is my situation different from everyone else or did everyone receive the same sensor light issue?
A picture really is worth a thousand words. The key warning light on your dashboard is the battery charge warning lamp. An electrical malfunction will cause the ABS/TCS/VDC systems to go into fail-safe mode (i.e. they're disabled and the lights come on). The Service Engine Soon light is a bit of a wild card, but electrical problems can cause important sensors that the engine relies on to throw trouble codes. Bottom line: I would suggest having your battery and charging system checked out ASAP and have the car's computer scanned for the trouble codes. Good luck and let us know what the final resolution was.
 

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A picture really is worth a thousand words. The key warning light on your dashboard is the battery charge warning lamp. An electrical malfunction will cause the ABS/TCS/VDC systems to go into fail-safe mode (i.e. they're disabled and the lights come on). The Service Engine Soon light is a bit of a wild card, but electrical problems can cause important sensors that the engine relies on to throw trouble codes. Bottom line: I would suggest having your battery and charging system checked out ASAP and have the car's computer scanned for the trouble codes. Good luck and let us know what the final resolution was.
Thank you so much. I will check it out tomorrow and post my results. I just dread having to drive it on the road being that there's a bunch of traffic lights around me on a busy main street.
 

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There have been many recent reports lately like yours for 1st and 2nd gen Muranos that have had success with the same air intake duct replacement fix.

Others with similar drivability issues should check their air intake duct for cracks in the ribbed sections -- it's a cheap and easy fix that somehow is missed/overlooked by some professional mechanics and dealerships...
 

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Air intake boot.

Another repair that also works if you only have 1 or 2 rib thats torn....

Did this to my other vehicle and is holding really well. Trick is to clean it very well before applying superglue. Let it bond together then cover all of it with the permatex black silicone. Fill all the inner ribs and also the outer one where the rip is. Put lots of it all around the boot. Position it such that the rip is not opening up. Let it dry for at least 24 hrs. You'll be surprised. Will only cost you $4 -silicone-walmart. $1- superglue 99cent store. Have fun.
 

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PLEASE READ. so I had this same problem with my 2011 about 3 years ago. the car stopped running going up hill I was able to shift into neutral and roll down out of the way of traffic shut off the car and called for a tow, after about 20 minutes I decided to give it another shot it worked I got back home. I worked for most of the day I test drove around the block a few times I preformed all the scans and tests I was able to do at home everything was good a, started happening again so I took it into aamco to have the transmission tested I was told I needed a new transmission. 2011 CVT comes from the dealership not an aftermarket company at a cost of about $3,500-$4,000 depending on what shop you use, most shops will not rebuild this year CVT because its a nightmare to rebuild . so I had the work done because my wife needed the car for work. everything was fine for about almost 2 years then last fall it started with this slow pickup/crawling at red lights this is the same as mush of you have described inner posts, after testing everything myself I found that the transmission was fine so I took it to a transmission shop and again I was told I needed a transmission, this time around I had discover that I was also getting a code for a bad MAF so I cleaned it a discover that the throttle body boot was heat damaged underside, so I replaced it and have no problems since. SO I HAVE FOUND THIS IS A MASS PROBLEM WITH THE MURANO LINE AND WILL ONLY BE ADDRESSED AS A RECALL WHEN THE I.I.H.S. IS INFORMED BY A MINIUM OF OWNERS this is deemed SAFTYE RECALL because in the event you are stop at the light and start to drive and slow down traffic and cause an accident or in the event you need to move out of the way of a disable vehicle or you yourself may creating a hazardous situation CONTACT THE I.I.H.S. website open a ticket so that this is documented and investigated.
 

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Sl-

Your MO went into "limp home" mode. This occurs when the engine's computer determines either a system or device is operating out of spec, so it reduces power to limit the potential for further damage. If it is not a major problem the system can be reset by turning off the engine and doing a restart.

I suggest finding a friend or auto parts store with an OBD reader and have them read the error code(s). Post the code(s) here and we can tell you exactly what occurred.

-njjoe
I have the same problem and no engine codes. The tranny was the original suspect but it's in limp mode when the tranny is in park.
 

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I have the same problem and no engine codes. The tranny was the original suspect but it's in limp mode when the tranny is in park.
I had a cracked air intake boot like the others.
Bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XDJB6Z/
Put it in on my own, it was kind of a pain because I had no idea what I was doing, so it took me 30+ minutes. But after the replacement, it was like I had a new car!
 

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Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.

Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car
Do you have part numbers for the air inlet flex tubbing, I am trying to find that part locally?
 

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Probably the most major problem of the 1st generation Muranos. Even after nine years, the consensus is still out - whether it is the throttle body, the throttle body sensor, the pedal sensor, or the CVT. All have been replaced and have reported to "fix" the problem.
Did you take the rubber boot off and check thoroughly? I had to because they were hidden in the grooves mostly.
Did you take the rubber boot off and check thoroughly? I had to because they were hidden in the grooves mostly.
Thank you so much folks for the thread I'm having the same issue going to go down to path you've recommended and think we will come up with the solution thanks again and keep things like this coming
 

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04 SL AWD - 212,000km

I've read about other people having this problem:
  • stopped at a light,
  • press the gas - car barely moves, engine revs very very slowly
  • after about 10 seconds (seems like an eternity with traffic behind you) the Murano picks up and off you go
  • drove regular speed with full power after the slow start at the lights
  • this occurred at each and every light on the way home. If I didn't have to stop completely for a light or stop sign, the slow acceleration did not happen, the car drove normally.

Then,
- park the car (in my case at home), start it again, and the problem is gone

What I Did:
  • checked the CVT fluid level as per instructions - found level between the two notches but fairly high up, bought some NS-2 fluid and added 500ml to bring it up to the very top.
  • checked for engine codes - no codes

Question:
  • Why did turning the car off and then on again seem to fix the problem?
  • Is this a hint of a CVT problem or of a throttle position sensor problem? It seemed like the car didn't know I was pressing on the gas at the stop lights.

Thanks for any answers to the above. :27:
 
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