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Just started this last weekend. No codes. Pulled the rubber boot today. View attachment 51443
Thank you for posting this. Ive been having this acceleration issue for a couple years now and didnt want to accept that I needed to replace my cvt. My husband and I went and checked and sure enough. 2 rips. We ordered a new one on amazon and the next days it came and was fixed. Thanks so much
 

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2010 Mo' LE, CVT Auto, FWD
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I'm gonna give this post a bump with what I'm possibly dealing with because it sound like an issue that I'm probably thinking it may be. I didn't take the boot off to check but maybe I should. Especially someone mentioned that the heating and crack happened on the underside where you don't see it - holy moly.

I got my 2010 Mo from 2017 and very rarely I have something happening anytime between 3 to 4 months: Anytime when at a stop light and I am pressing down on the gas pedal and the Mo will move but after about 2 seconds it stopped. My foot was still on the gas pedal, so I back off from it and put my foot back down on it and it goes like it's normal.

Now recently it seem to happen about once every month or two. I did make sure that it wasn't a habit that I was doing because check this out - I was going uphill with load of traffic around me including behind me. So I was at the stop light, turned green so I was gonna try to take it normal instead of slow hence of all the traffic. Well, it goes for like 2 secs then it stopped accelerating, I pressed down even more on the pedal and no feedback from the engine, RPM, or anything else. I put my foot off the gas pedal and press again. Now it was scary because going up hill and rolling a bit backward is a heck of a creepy feeling for me. I had to do it like 3 times to be sure and then when it finally goes I got off that road and go for more straight road.

Sure, it didn't happen again much after that but still rarely happens. No code showing up on my two different OB2 readers, transmission showing everything fine as I check that in every 6 months with everything else - battery, etc. and the CVT Fluid is still good.

Pretty much everything is original so far. CVT/Engine/etc so not much had been replaced. I ought to make a video to see how it's doing and where it stands with other Mo's. I saw a sister LE (Maroon color from Jefferson, TN tag hanging out in Knoxville, TN area) but couldn't find the owner to talk so I was out of luck there. Let me know what yall think.

Edit: I do mostly drive with the cruise controls on and never had an issue with it. I forgot to mention this.
Also - engine run fine. Not too lean or rich.
 

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Just to let you know, we had 3 muranos all with that same, off the line hesitation problem. Took one if them to nissan who said it was the transmission. I paid 1200 for a rebuilt and supposedly they extended warranty. But when I drove it home, same problem so I traded it in for a new car. That was a year ago. Then I decided to go to auto mechanic school, I was tired if getting ripped off.

Turns out the trans wasn't bad. After being in school now, I checked one of our other Muranos. Problem is a simple 80 dollar air inlet flex piece that connects air filter to throttle inlet. The mass airflow sensor is by the filter. All of these tubing go bad in the ribbed section, it cracks, leaks in air after maf sensor and you get hesitation and more gas usage. Checked 3rd murano, same piece had a crack. Both are running fine. I wish I had known before I got a new trans and traded one in.

That's why I wanted to be a mechanic. Tired of getting ripped off. Be careful, believe me, every place out there is going to drastically over sell on parts needed to fix the car

Can you tell me the part that needs ot be replaced? Do you ahve a part number? Describe the hose a little better?
 

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Thanks for all the help tips here! Including the Amazon link. I was having issues with losing acceleration randomly, excessive gas use and just generally being “loud”. Spent $350 on fixing other components & it turned out to be the $35 part and 15 minutes of labor on my part. Huge crack in the original intake hose, honestly surprised the techs missed it in their “inspection”
 

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Thanks for all the help tips here! Including the Amazon link. I was having issues with losing acceleration randomly, excessive gas use and just generally being “loud”. Spent $350 on fixing other components & it turned out to be the $35 part and 15 minutes of labor on my part. Huge crack in the original intake hose, honestly surprised the techs missed it in their “inspection”
Chances are they didn't know what to look for.

Every car has its common failure modes, and usually the dealer guys know them and can spot them quickly. Evidently they didn't know this one. But a specialized forum like this one will generally have info about the frequent failure items.

I remember when my daughter had a '91 Camaro; when we got it the tach read low by about 1/3. I found a Camaro forum where not only was the problem identified, but there was a long thread telling how to pull the tach, take it apart and replace the resistor that went bad. That solution worked perfectly, but there isn't a dealership in the world that would have known how to fix it - they'd just have replaced the tach. That's not a viable solution 20 years after the car was built.
 

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Chances are they didn't know what to look for.

Every car has its common failure modes, and usually the dealer guys know them and can spot them quickly. Evidently they didn't know this one. But a specialized forum like this one will generally have info about the frequent failure items.

I remember when my daughter had a '91 Camaro; when we got it the tach read low by about 1/3. I found a Camaro forum where not only was the problem identified, but there was a long thread telling how to pull the tach, take it apart and replace the resistor that went bad. That solution worked perfectly, but there isn't a dealership in the world that would have known how to fix it - they'd just have replaced the tach. That's not a viable solution 20 years after the car was built.
Well unfortunately it fixed the issue for a few days but I just had another incident where I lost acceleration but was able to coast into a parking lot, let the car run for a bit to s for a bit but when I I turned it off it died and had to be jumped. Runs “fine” again but I know the issue will appear again. Wondering if battery (new last year) or alternator issue.
 

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Well unfortunately it fixed the issue for a few days but I just had another incident where I lost acceleration but was able to coast into a parking lot, let the car run for a bit to s for a bit but when I I turned it off it died and had to be jumped. Runs “fine” again but I know the issue will appear again. Wondering if battery (new last year) or alternator issue.
If you needed a jump start then it's electrical. Get battery and alternator tested and have the battery ground cable inspected from the battery all the way back to where it terminates on the transmission (common issue with excessive corrosion).
 
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It's the air intake hose from air filter to engine.
 
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