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Discussion Starter #1
So it finally happened....

2003, 101 k km.

I was driving on the highway and suddenly I felt the car loosing power, and after a few shaking movements and the Check Engine light coming on - it started to slow down. The RPMs jumped to 3000, 4000 but it was not going over 80km / hour.

I exited the highway and stopped.

Tried to move again, pressed the gas to the floor but there was just a very slight increase in RPM and the car was very slowly moving (like in a first gear), no matter how much I pressed the gas. If I kept the gas pedal pressed completely it would increase in speed and RPM, but very slowly...

I don't have a "friend" mechanic, and most likely I will get ripped of if I go to the dealer (they will rush to say I'll have to get a new transmission).

SO...Please help me...What do you think it is? The air intake, CVT transmission failure or something else?

Thank you,
Ben
 

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Ben-

When you restarted the car did it operate normally?

-njjoe
 

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The first step would be to find out what tripped the check engine light. You can get the code read for free at most autoparts stores.

You can easily check if its a detached intake air tube, which seems to be a common problem. Or cross your fingers its just the electronic throttle body and not the CVT.

If it does end up being the CVT, see if there were any leaks which precipitated the breakdown.
 

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I would check your Ignition Coils. I had this happen to my 02 Audi A6 took it to the dealer and this was the issue. It is an expensive issue though...:(
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi guys, thank you for your responses.

So after it rested for about half an hour...my Mo actually started fine...and drove fine afterwords. Took it to a mechanic near by, he drove it a bit, there was no problem. He didn't have time to check the codes, told me to come in Monday(!)...

Unfortunately here in Canada they don't do free readings at parts stores (I tried before).

So, yes njjoe, the car operated normally since then. Today (Sunday) I have to drive a bit longer on the highway and I hope it won't happen again...

But I'll go on Monday have the code read.

I don't know much about the air intake or the electronic throttle body or the throttle position sensor (in fact I know nothing...). What do you think? If one of those was the problem, now that it's fixed by itself, should I still replace that part?

Thank you.
 

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Doesn't have time to read codes? It's not magic! Just plug in the tool, wait for it to connect to the ECU (about 10 seconds), and press the read button. Shops these days really make a mountain out of a mole hill when it comes to electronics.

Buy yourself a scangauge at www.scangauge.com. Use it twice and it pays for itself. Then you can look up the codes on the internet and you're done.

I hope the codes are still there. There are multiple codes that self correct. So if you drive around for a while, some of the codes may not be there any more. Is your check engine light still on?
 

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Warhammer said:
Buy yourself a scangauge at www.scangauge.com. Use it twice and it pays for itself. Then you can look up the codes on the internet and you're done.
Hi Warhammer

withouth willing to hijack bogdaiki thread, would you be so kind to discuss a little more about your experience with the scangauge? Do you have it always connected? It seems a nice addition to the MO functionality...

thanks!
 

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I always had my ScanGauge plugged into my 2002 Nissan Frontier to accurately show water temp, engine load, MPG, and battery voltage. Mostly for MPG though.

Since the MO has the MPG option already built in I don't always have it connected. I primarly use it for reading codes for myself and my neighbors when the needs arise. I've never had any problems with it. It's always been dependable and has paid for itself about 3 times already.

I'm actually thinking about sending it back so it can be upgraded with their newer firmware and software. They're showing a new xGauge option that allows for you to program in parameters to read specific sensor information (i.e. O2, fuel mix, MAF, etc).
 

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Warhammer said:
I always had my ScanGauge plugged into my 2002 Nissan Frontier to accurately show water temp, engine load, MPG, and battery voltage. Mostly for MPG though.

Since the MO has the MPG option already built in I don't always have it connected. I primarly use it for reading codes for myself and my neighbors when the needs arise. I've never had any problems with it. It's always been dependable and has paid for itself about 3 times already.

I'm actually thinking about sending it back so it can be upgraded with their newer firmware and software. They're showing a new xGauge option that allows for you to program in parameters to read specific sensor information (i.e. O2, fuel mix, MAF, etc).
nice stuff, will get one to myself then... I always complain that I don't have here in EU the MPG gauge, standard on US Muranos... and reading the codes is also key. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well Warhammer...I was thinking to get one of those scanners, wasn't sure which one is best.

Unfortunately...the SES light went OFF yesterday, so I can't even see what th codes were any longer...

Can one of the suggested possible causes for my problem be fixed by just cleaning that part and not replace it with a new one? (intake air, tubes, electronic throttle body, etc.)

One thing I didn't mention but I read on the forum that might matter is that when the problem started I got the SES light flashing for a little while and then it stayed on (and then it went off after a few days...)
 

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bogdaiki said:
Well Warhammer...I was thinking to get one of those scanners, wasn't sure which one is best.

Unfortunately...the SES light went OFF yesterday, so I can't even see what th codes were any longer...

Can one of the suggested possible causes for my problem be fixed by just cleaning that part and not replace it with a new one? (intake air, tubes, electronic throttle body, etc.)

One thing I didn't mention but I read on the forum that might matter is that when the problem started I got the SES light flashing for a little while and then it stayed on (and then it went off after a few days...)
I wouldn't replace a part unless I knew it was broken. Even with the light off, the code is stored for some time.
 

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A scanner is comes in very handy when you need it. I kicked myself over and over again when I had to have someone else read codes for me.

I thought there was a way to download the codes without a scanner. I'll dive into the Service Manual for my 04 MO and see what I can find. Maybe it's something simple like turning the key a few times and the codes show up on where the odometer gauge is.

Stay tuned...
 

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Warhammer said:
A scanner is comes in very handy when you need it. I kicked myself over and over again when I had to have someone else read codes for me.

I thought there was a way to download the codes without a scanner. I'll dive into the Service Manual for my 04 MO and see what I can find. Maybe it's something simple like turning the key a few times and the codes show up on where the odometer gauge is.

Stay tuned...
Yes there is a way to read the codes - it is through a series of flashes from the CEL. Not as easy as the scanner though.
 

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bogdaiki
I have a CanOBD2 scanner I bought from CDN tire and it has paid dividends since I bought it. I would highly recommend that you get one as Warhammer did.

I think that somebody put the codes on this forum, if you do a search for SES codes you should get a few hits.
 

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Well...with the codes gone, there's no way to call them back. I guess you need to wait for it to happen again. When they come back, you'll ready with something right?!?!? :D
 

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Warhammer said:
Well...with the codes gone, there's no way to call them back. I guess you need to wait for it to happen again. When they come back, you'll ready with something right?!?!? :D
I think depending on the severity of the code, they are stored in the computer even after the light turns off, for a certain number of start-stop cycles. So if you get to it early, you might still be able to pull the code. However, if the light turns off, usually its an evap code and will not affect driveability.
 

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hallo bogdaiki, your problem is described in users manual/ chaper-Starting and driving. I have Europen version of Murano, but believe that manulas are simialr everywhere.
It is so called "High fluid temperature protection mode" and it starts in order to protect transmission from damage. You should check the level of fluid in transsmision first and change it if necessary.

quote (from manual)
High fluid temperature protection mode

This transmission has a high fluid temperature protection mode. If the fluid temperature becomes too high (for example, when climbing steep grades in high temperature with heavy loads, such as when towing a trailer), engine power and, under some conditions, vehicle speed will be decreased automatically to reduce the chance of transmission damage. Vehicle speed can be controlled with the accelerator pedal, but the vehicle may not accelerate above approximately 40 to 50 MPH (65 to 80 km/h).
unquote
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi bilro. Hm...that sounds interesting - it might be just that.
I will check the transmission fluid (I know it's tricky though - if they change it with the wrong fluid it screws up everything).

But guess what? Well it kind of happened again. This time it behaved different though, but the driving conditions were almost the same: 120km/h, slightly uphill, AC on, regular gas (after using only premium until a couple of month ago).
So as soon as I felt some hesitation in the acceleration I shifted in neutral for a few seconds and then back in drive. The SES light did not come on this time. The RPMs went to 4000, but it kept the speed though. After exiting the highway it would accelerate, but the RPMs were going to 3-4k.
Next morning it was back to normal.

So what do you think it was?...
 

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It really does sound like the high temperature protection mode.

bogdaiki said:
Hi bilro. Hm...that sounds interesting - it might be just that.
I will check the transmission fluid (I know it's tricky though - if they change it with the wrong fluid it screws up everything).

But guess what? Well it kind of happened again. This time it behaved different though, but the driving conditions were almost the same: 120km/h, slightly uphill, AC on, regular gas (after using only premium until a couple of month ago).
So as soon as I felt some hesitation in the acceleration I shifted in neutral for a few seconds and then back in drive. The SES light did not come on this time. The RPMs went to 4000, but it kept the speed though. After exiting the highway it would accelerate, but the RPMs were going to 3-4k.
Next morning it was back to normal.

So what do you think it was?...
 
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